BEOON the Leitz Copy Stand

Nowhereman said:
I found that setting the lens at maximum aperture made, in my case at f/2 with the DR-Summicron, made it easy to focus. I was having a problem initially only because I tried to focus at f/11, having misread the instructions — setting to f/11 is the recommended aperture for making the actual copy exposure.

Using paper with print for focusing coveivably could result in less sharpness if the paper is not the same thickness as the negative.
Click to expand...

I thought so too, but in my case i couldn't get it any sharper. It was also much easier on the eyes. Having said that I haven't tried focusing at max aperture. I'll try that next time around. I think I only have 2 more exposures left on my next roll 🙂
 
Woohoo, I got one!

Found a complete set at a local camera store (hour drive) for $200.. not bad.

That said.. i can't get crisp shots.. or maybe my expectations are too high. I'm trying to replace my PrimeFilm XA, so that's my comparison.

I think i have it in good focus with the ground loupe, but when i take the pictures (at f8 or f11) it doesn't look as crisp as I would have thought.

A few questions maybe people can answer..

1) When doing this with an M9, after long exposures, it counts down and says Noise Reduction 5, 4, 3, 2, 1...

Is that something I can turn off? I'm taking DNG raw, uncompressed.

2) My only 50s are an ooold Elmar 50/3.5 and a Summilux ASPH, so i've been using the Lux. Do I choose the 50 Lux in the manual lens coding on the body? or let it go uncoded?

I'll post more after I try a few more things tonight.

Thanks!
 
That said.. i can't get crisp shots..
Click to expand...
Taking lenses aren't going to cut it..unless you give up the corners..or stop down and lose definition thru diffraction..and even then..the corners are probably still weak..
Get a good late model enlarging lens for best results..its designed for flat field work..
 
Fair enough about enlarging lenses. I was having trouble in the middle of the field though. I'm trying again on a much more stable surface.

What do you stop down to on your lens? I can definitely see the difference between f8 and f11 on the Lux.

Come to think of it, i have a few 50s to choose from. Let me know if you recommend one over another...

50 Lux
Canon 50/1.4
Elmar 50/3.5
Jupiter 8, 50/2
 
I think it's possible the old 50 3.5 might have a flatter field. I'm using the Elmar M 50 2.8. Some shots are terrific, others less so. Getting the white balance right is difficult with my fluoro tube light box. Taking the camera on and off for every shot to refocus would be too too tedious but might be best for ideal focus on each one. I'm going to the Nikon next weekend to scan some 35mm properly.
 
ok, i did a bit more playing around and I think I like the M9 scanned images better than the XA. The files seem more workable and the tones seem smoother.


Cows 1 [Full Size]

27091161652_89364f487a_h.jpg



Cows 2 [Full Size]

26911957460_6e748a235a_h.jpg


Not a guessing game or anything, but I am curious to hear peoples thoughts. I tried doing an HDR with some bracketing as well.. That just came out weird.

Jesse
 
Richard G said:
I think it's possible the old 50 3.5 might have a flatter field. I'm using the Elmar M 50 2.8. Some shots are terrific, others less so. Getting the white balance right is difficult with my fluoro tube light box. Taking the camera on and off for every shot to refocus would be too too tedious but might be best for ideal focus on each one. I'm going to the Nikon next weekend to scan some 35mm properly.
Click to expand...

I'm having trouble as well with white balance on C-41. I'm inverting (cmd+I) in photoshop and then bringing it back to LR. I'm at 100 essentially on both temp and tint and it's not enough. Curious to hear how you handle that.
 
Jhausler said:
I'm having trouble as well with white balance on C-41. I'm inverting (cmd+I) in photoshop and then bringing it back to LR. I'm at 100 essentially on both temp and tint and it's not enough. Curious to hear how you handle that.
Click to expand...

First, your shots look great. I couldn't get the manual white balance to work once the camera is mounted. I should do it next time off the stand with just the light box.
 
Emile de Leon said:
Taking lenses aren't going to cut it..unless you give up the corners..or stop down and lose definition thru diffraction..and even then..the corners are probably still weak..
Get a good late model enlarging lens for best results..its designed for flat field work..
Click to expand...
Richard G said:
I think it's possible the old 50 3.5 might have a flatter field. I'm using the Elmar M 50 2.8. Some shots are terrific, others less so...Taking the camera on and off for every shot to refocus would be too too tedious but might be best for ideal focus on each one. I'm going to the Nikon next weekend to scan some 35mm properly.
Click to expand...
From my experience using the DR-Summicron at f/11 with both the M-Monochrom and the M9-P on the BEOON there is no problem with the corners — also diffraction is not an issue with this lens than on these "full-size" sensors at f/11. I have not tried an enlarging lens, but the BEEON was designed for this type of macro copying with a normal 50mm lens: I'm using the A+D rings for 1:1.

Moreover, once I used the full aperture of f/2 to focus, I have not had to refocus. Richard G: why do you have to "take the camera on and off" to refocus in any case? BTW, your lens should be focused at infinity and the focusing is done with the "milled ring for focusing" on the BEOON column, then stop down to f/11 for exposure; once you tighten the "locking screw," the BEOON is very solid — I've not had to refocus even once in the last three weeks. Have you looked at the BEOON manual?
_______________
Alone in Bangkok essay on BURN Magazine
 
Ahh.. two other tips that may help when using an M9:

* Use the USB cable on the M9 and connect it to the computer. This way you can check critical focus before you shoot a whole series of negatives.

* I used the self-timer on the M9 (didn't have a cable release) to negate motion blur.
 
fti said:
Ahh.. two other tips that may help when using an M9:

* Use the USB cable on the M9 and connect it to the computer. This way you can check critical focus before you shoot a whole series of negatives.

* I used the self-timer on the M9 (didn't have a cable release) to negate motion blur.
Click to expand...

Ha. I didnt even realize the M9 could USB to a computer. Im also using the self timer.

Whats the best way to advance each frame? I assume pulling the negative underneath the stand will scratch the negs.
 
After talking with Sug last year I started using a BEOON for quick scans of 120 film.

I place the negatives between the light table and a piece of acetate. Keeps em flat and I don't worry about scratches. It helps if there's limited stray light in the room to reduce reflections.
 
Emile - have you actually tried and compared the performance of an enlarging lens with a good 50mm lens on the BEOON — or are you just writing this theoretically? I would think the the old Leitz company would have recommended using enlarging lenses on the BEOON if they thought they worked better: after all they were also manufacturing the Focotar lenses at the time they were selling the BEOON.

I also as skeptical about the using a Focotar on a macro mount, which is what the BEOON is, would work well with the Focotar wide open.

_______________
Alone in Bangkok essay on BURN Magazine
 
I tried a lot of lenses with the BEOON...it was a learning experience..
Leica R 60mm macro..didn't cut it..
DR Summicron...didn't cut it..
Older Focotars...didn't cut it...
Focotar 2 was the best...by a wide margin..
35mm f1.4 asph...didn't work..
Focotar 2 100mm ...didn't work..
Used a fine grid neg to see the corners..
OK..
Just double checked the DR Summi...which is my fave bright light high resolution lens...
Against the Focotar 2...there is no comparison...the corners are not there at all at any aperture..
As good as the DR is as a taking lens...it is not the tool for flat field work..
But that said..unless you are real picky..and really need the corners..as in..who take pics of brick walls..you probably wont see much of a difference..but..if you have the enlarging lens..an apo or the Focotar..this will wean you off the DR etc...real fast...as it did me..
All this was a surprise to me...as I really wanted my 60 R macro to work..as it is a stunning lens..
And..the best f stop for the Focotar is wide open..or 1/2 stop down at 5.6..it was made this way..
And..just because Leica said way back then..you could use any old 50mm stopped way down..that was not the best solution.
OK..you decide..whats best for you..and how picky you want to be..
 
Emile de Leon said:
I tried a lot of lenses with the BEOON...it was a learning experience..
Leica R 60mm macro..didn't cut it..
DR Summicron...didn't cut it..
Older Focotars...didn't cut it...
Focotar 2 was the best...by a wide margin..
35mm f1.4 asph...didn't work..
Focotar 2 100mm ...didn't work..
Used a fine grid neg to see the corners..
OK..
Just double checked the DR Summi...which is my fave bright light high resolution lens...
Against the Focotar 2...there is no comparison...the corners are not there at all at any aperture..
As good as the DR is as a taking lens...it is not the tool for flat field work..
But that said..unless you are real picky..and really need the corners..as in..who take pics of brick walls..you probably wont see much of a difference..but..if you have the enlarging lens..an apo or the Focotar..this will wean you off the DR etc...real fast...as it did me..
All this was a surprise to me...as I really wanted my 60 R macro to work..as it is a stunning lens..
And..the best f stop for the Focotar is wide open..or 1/2 stop down at 5.6..it was made this way..
And..just because Leica said way back then..you could use any old 50mm stopped way down..that was not the best solution.
OK..you decide..whats best for you..and how picky you want to be..
Click to expand...


Wow, thanks so much for this! If you have the spare time, could you post a few shots with the bad corners vs the Fotocar 2? I think i see it myself to be honest even in the cow images above. The top one was the BEOON w/ Lux, and the 2nd was the PrimeFilm XA. The later has better looking corners.

This have been a very helpful thread. Thanks to everyone who contributed and to Sug for starting it.
 
Thanks for the detailed response. Not that I don't agree — I can't take the any position since I don't have a Focotar to try — but I find that at f/11 the DR Summocron works great on the BEOON, but then I haven't shot any brick walls. 😀

Also, I wonder whether you've tried the DR Summicronon extensively at f/11, since you've indicated that it suffers from diffraction, but from what I've read about this on a full-frame sensor, and from my own trials, this is not the case.

In any case, I wonder why the corners should be soft with the DR Summicorn at f/11.
 
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