BEOON the Leitz Copy Stand

[zerobuttons]

Finally, I have acquired all I needed to get started in using the BEOON. It seems I have that same problem with distance and focusing, others have mentioned earlier in this thread.

I am scanning 35mm negatives with a Leica M-P and a Rodenstock APO-Rodagon-N 50/2.8 lens. Since the lens screws directly into the BEOON rings, I cannot use ring A+D as prescribed in the BEOON manual when scanning 1:1, since ring A is for M mount lenses. Using ring D alone makes the negative fill out only part of the picture frame. I have to use rings B+C+D to make the negative fill the whole picture frame. Regardless which ring combination I use, I cannot focus perfectly, since the BEOON focusing spindle reaches bottom before I reach perfect focus.

Has anyone overcome problems like these, and how?

 

[Daan]

You could put an ltm-m adapter on the rodenstock lens.

 

[Nowhereman]

Finally, I have acquired all I needed to get started in using the BEOON. It seems I have that same problem with distance and focusing, others have mentioned earlier in this thread.

I am scanning 35mm negatives with a Leica M-P and a Rodenstock APO-Rodagon-N 50/2.8 lens. Since the lens screws directly into the BEOON rings, I cannot use ring A+D as prescribed in the BEOON manual when scanning 1:1, since ring A is for M mount lenses. Using ring D alone makes the negative fill out only part of the picture frame. I have to use rings B+C+D to make the negative fill the whole picture frame. Regardless which ring combination I use, I cannot focus perfectly, since the BEOON focusing spindle reaches bottom before I reach perfect focus.

Has anyone overcome problems like these, and how?

I'm using a Leitz Focotar-2 50mm enlarger lens and the B+C+D rings. This gives 1:1, and I get perfect focus when the top of the milled focus ring is flush with the bottom of the first thread of the focusing spindle (just below the 1:1 marking).

_______________
Alone in Bangkok essay on BURN Magazine

 

[splitimageview]

Mix-match LTM extension tubes

 

[tocalosh]

This thread has made me really want to try a Beoon for digitalizing my negatives.
All the talk of different adapters is slightly confusing, so I have a couple of questions which i hope you can help me with.

- What adapter do I need to use a Sony A7II as the camera?
- Do I need an aditional adapter to use a 50mm enlarging lens?
- What adapter do I need to use a 50mm Olympus OM or Nikon F lens?

I am looking at one Beoon that looks like it may be missing the adapter/extension tube A.
It does has the three tubes B, C, D. How important is tube A? I will not be using a Leica camera or lens.

I will use the beoon for standard 135 negs, as well as xpan, 6x6 and 6x7, Is there anything else I must take into consideration?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Sam

 

[Peter Jennings]

Try to hold out for a BEOON without any missing bits. You may be able to get by without the A ring if using an LTM lens. In the long run, you may find out you need it after all. The kit should also come with a Leitz LTM to M adapter.

You will need either an LTM or M adapter for Sony E/F mount. Adapting OM or F mount to M mount will also require another adapter, but they are uncommon and your choices will be slim.

Good luck

 

[tocalosh]

Thanks for the help Peter! Will keep a look out for a complete kit.

 

[splitimageview]

I will be selling a boxed kit, complete.

There are F and OM to Leica M adapters.

 

[tocalosh]

Splitimageview- If your willing to ship to the UK and the price is right I would be interested.
Send me a PM when ur ready to sell.

Thanks!

 

[Nowhereman]

...- What adapter do I need to use a Sony A7II as the camera?
- Do I need an aditional adapter to use a 50mm enlarging lens?
- What adapter do I need to use a 50mm Olympus OM or Nikon F lens?

I am looking at one Beoon that looks like it may be missing the adapter/extension tube A.
It does has the three tubes B, C, D. How important is tube A? I will not be using a Leica camera or lens.

I will use the beoon for standard 135 negs, as well as xpan, 6x6 and 6x7, Is there anything else I must take into consideration?...

Have a look at the BEOON manual linked somewhere in this thread.

As someone said, you can get an M-Lens adaptor for the A7ii. However, the BEOON is designed to be used with a Leica 50mm lens focused at infinity. With a Leica M-lens, you use the A+D rings to get exactly 24x36mm with the 1:1 mask. Also, you can use the Leitz Focotar-2 50mm enlarger lens with the B+C+D frames and also get the full 24x36mm frame with the 1:1 mask. The other two masks, 1:1.5 and 1:2, are not large enough for 6x6 and 6x7 film frames.

Therefore, the BEOON is limited to digitalizing 35mm film. Also, with Olympus and Nikon 50mm lenses, you are not likely to be able to get exactly 24x36mm with the BEOON rings. Using other spacers could be difficult to figure out.

_______________
Alone in Bangkok essay on BURN Magazine

 

[zerobuttons]

I'm using a Leitz Focotar-2 50mm enlarger lens and the B+C+D rings. This gives 1:1, and I get perfect focus when the top of the milled focus ring is flush with the bottom of the first thread of the focusing spindle (just below the 1:1 marking).

I have experimented with the only 50mm taking lens I have, a Konica Hexanon 50/2. I set it to infinity focus, focus with the lens at f/2 and stop it down to f/11 to shoot. To be able to get to a state, where I can adjust focus, without the BEOON spindle reaching bottom, I have to use only ring B. Then, the negative fills very little in the picture frame. Furthermore, as expected, the corners do not fare well with this lens.

I get fairly decent results with the Rodenstock APO-Rodagon-N 50/2.8 with rings B+C+D, the BEOON spindle all the way down, and the lens stopped down to f/16. I´ll move on using this setup.

It just puzzles me how it can be that not even with a taking lens (the Hexanon), the negative fills the picture frame with rings A+D as prescribed in the BEOON manual - and focusing is impossible. As others have described, a taking lens must be what the Leitz constructors assumed would be used with this device.

 

[splitimageview]

How much extension is the adapter that you are using with the Hex?

 

[Nowhereman]

I have experimented with the only 50mm taking lens I have, a Konica Hexanon 50/2. I set it to infinity focus, focus with the lens at f/2 and stop it down to f/11 to shoot. To be able to get to a state, where I can adjust focus, without the BEOON spindle reaching bottom, I have to use only ring B. Then, the negative fills very little in the picture frame. Furthermore, as expected, the corners do not fare well with this lens.

I get fairly decent results with the Rodenstock APO-Rodagon-N 50/2.8 with rings B+C+D, the BEOON spindle all the way down, and the lens stopped down to f/16. I´ll move on using this setup.

It just puzzles me how it can be that not even with a taking lens (the Hexanon), the negative fills the picture frame with rings A+D as prescribed in the BEOON manual - and focusing is impossible. As others have described, a taking lens must be what the Leitz constructors assumed would be used with this device.

Something seems wrong. What camera are you using?

Assuming that you're using a full-frame camera like the Sony A7II with a good Sony E-Mount to M-lens adapter, like the Novoflex, the Konica Hexanon 50/2 (assuming it has an M-Mount), should act the same way as my DR-Summicron; and you should get a perfect 24x36mm frame with the 1:1 mask — with focus being just below the 1:1 mark on the spindle. This should be with the A+D rings, as shown in the BEOON manual. But you say that you’re using only the B ring: that puzzles me because any M-mount lens would need the M-Mount that is on the A ring.

The Rodagon, as an enlarger lens, has the same M39 thread as the Focotar-2 and should also focus like the Focotar-2 with the B+C+D rings, focused about at the bottom of the first thread of the spindle, i.e., somewhat below the 1:1 mark. However, I would not set the Rodogan at f/16 because the image will probably be degraded somewhat because of diffraction. I would set it at f/8 or f/5.6, or even f/4. You might want to compare the Rodagon at f/4, f/5.6, f/8 and f/11 — after you solve the focus and 1:1 frame problem.

Det borde inte vara så svårt. 😀

_______________
Alone in Bangkok essay on BURN Magazine

 

[zerobuttons]

Something seems wrong. What camera are you using?

Assuming that you're using a full-frame camera like the Sony A7II with a good Sony E-Mount to M-lens adapter, like the Novoflex, the Konica Hexanon 50/2 (assuming it has an M-Mount), should act the same way as my DR-Summicron; and you should get a perfect 24x36mm frame with the 1:1 mask — with focus being just below the 1:1 mark on the spindle. This should be with the A+D rings, as shown in the BEOON manual. But you say that you’re using only the B ring: that puzzles me because any M-mount lens would need the M-Mount that is on the A ring.

The Rodagon, as an enlarger lens, has the same M39 thread as the Focotar-2 and should also focus like the Focotar-2 with the B+C+D rings, focused about at the bottom of the first thread of the spindle, i.e., somewhat below the 1:1 mark. However, I would not set the Rodogan at f/16 because the image will probably be degraded somewhat because of diffraction. I would set it at f/8 or f/5.6, or even f/4. You might want to compare the Rodagon at f/4, f/5.6, f/8 and f/11 — after you solve the focus and 1:1 frame problem.

I am using a Leica M-P240, i.e. a full-frame camera.

Since my problem indicates the whole setup should be closer to the negative, when I adjust the spindle to the 1:1 mark, I have measured that distance (roughly - my caliper gauge isn´t long enough). I get about 165mm from negative plane to the bottom of the thick part of the angle plate on which you mount camera and tubes. What is your distance there?

IMG_1390 by David List, on Flickr

 

[zerobuttons]

.....<snip>.....
But you say that you’re using only the B ring: that puzzles me because any M-mount lens would need the M-Mount that is on the A ring.
.....<snip>.....

Sorry. I meant to write rings A+B there, of course.

 

[Nowhereman]

I am using a Leica M-P240, i.e. a full-frame camera...I get about 165mm from negative plane to the bottom of the thick part of the angle plate on which you mount camera and tubes. What is your distance there?

With the B+C+D rings and the Focotar-2 focussed, this distance is about 170mm on my setup.

I note that you're using the M240 and assume that you're focusing using live view with the EVF or the LCD. Perhaps you should try to focus using the BEOON magnifier with the Rodagon set at f/2.8, and then replacing the magnifier with the camera and stopping the lens down when you shoot.

_______________
Alone in Bangkok essay on BURN Magazine

 

[Daan]

Looking for some advice regarding the beoon. I have been scanning
my xpan negs with a beoon, A7 and a 50mm el nikkor. Pretty happy so far.
You can see some examples in my signature. But corners could be better.
Would a 75mm el nikkor improve the corners? And would it work with a beoon?

Also sometimes my corners are slightly lighter (once inverted) then the center. Anybody
have the same issue?

 

[Godfrey]

Looking for some advice regarding the beoon. I have been scanning
my xpan negs with a beoon, A7 and a 50mm el nikkor. Pretty happy so far.
You can see some examples in my signature. But corners could be better.
Would a 75mm el nikkor improve the corners? And would it work with a beoon?

Also sometimes my corners are slightly lighter (once inverted) then the center. Anybody
have the same issue?

I haven't looked at this specifically, but your negatives are about 65mm wide which implies a magnification just a little lower than 1:2 to capture full frame. I'm not sure the El Nikkor is particularly well-corrected for that high a magnification. This is more in the range of a good standard macro lens, like a Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 or f/2.8, which is what I'd try next.

I suspect the BEOON doesn't have enough extension range to work with a 75mm lens at 1:2 magnification, but again I'd have to try it to say for sure.

G

 

[Daan]

Thanks godfrey for the advice. I'll see if i can find a macro lens. The 75mm el nikkor
is locally available for 10 euro's so i might just try it first

 

[Emile de Leon]

75mm wont work...I've tried it...60mm will...
If you are losing your corners..you are not stopping down enough..or don't have a good enough flat field lens..
Don't skimp on the lens..get the best you can here..
I use a Focotar 2..it is great in the corners..even wide open..
I don't know how wide those xpan negs are..but you can also use a Valoy 2 with the proper copy stand adapter..or a normal copy stand which can be had cheep used..