Converted-to-Black-Paint Leica M's, show 'em here!

[sanmich]

Looks fantastic!
but did you strip the chrome first?

could you please give us a source for the grip-tac material (I guess we're talking about sheets, right?)

 

[yesaroos]

Looks fantastic!
but did you strip the chrome first?

could you please give us a source for the grip-tac material (I guess we're talking about sheets, right?)

yes, I strip the crome but not the nickel since I don't have the chemical.. powder coating required the part to be sand blasted first, thats partialy remove the nickle but not all.. so it might not brassed good..

for grip-tack like material.. I use 3M safety walk medium type for swimming pool, wich is intended to be comfortable to barefoot..

 

[nobbylon]

there are my leica m3, one of them was modified to use the leicavit mp with m2's counter.

both of them was repainted at 30% glossy level.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/55396130@N04/16047895208/

Your MP replica is superb. Who did the conversion and did you weld up the m3 frame counter hole?

 

[nobbylon]

I've done it.. she's just converted 😎






I strip the timer & preview lever, cut the 'vampire tooth', clean the RF, re-skinned with Grip-Tac like material, implant new shutter from salvaged Canon F1.. so far, the shutter speed sounds good to ear.. unfortunately, the RF patch still can't align well on infinity and the vertical adjustment cover screw is MIA :bang:

Not perfect, but good enough for me 😱

Very nice camera. Congratulations.

 

[nobbylon]

I met up with someone over the weekend in Germany who showed me a boxfull of M2, M3 and M4's all painted in either black or green and they were simply stunning. The paint was a near exact match to original that I compaired to. More interesting were the Summicron rigid and 3 element elmar 90 that he had also repainted and I actually thought they were originals! i've seen a shintaro and these were better. He asked to remain anonymous but kindly shared his formula so my next repaint is going to be a test for me. I honestly thought I had got as far as I personally could with repaints but this box of gear has made me rethink my painting.

 

[bucs]

I was quoted 172,500 JPY by kanto camera which includes repaint and overhaul including shutter replacement.

 

[Rob-F]

Here's mine, a Black repaint M2 done by Nobbylon.

 

[splitimageview]

I've done it.. she's just converted :cool

Nice! Very similar to my project.

I prefer the non-self timer M2.

This will have an M3 viewfinder when complete.

 

[Vincent.G]

20140914-M7-50V4-TMAX400-TMD1+4-7MIN-36 copy by Days of My Ordinary Life (Vincent), on Flickr

 

[splitimageview]

Finished the project...

Lever rewind, no-self timer M2, 1964, #1093xxx, with M3 viewfinder from a donor camera that was otherwise not salvageable. The original M2 viewfinder prism had oxidation and was toast...

New curtains, full CLA. Also has M4-style loading.

I'm calling it an M234. 😉

 

[Fuchs]

Finished the project...

Lever rewind, no-self timer M2, 1964, #1093xxx, with M3 viewfinder from a donor camera that was otherwise not salvageable. The original M2 viewfinder prism had oxidation and was toast...

New curtains, full CLA. Also has M4-style loading.

I'm calling it an M234. 😉

Fantastic result.

 

[grouchos_tash]

Finished the project...

Lever rewind, no-self timer M2, 1964, #1093xxx, with M3 viewfinder from a donor camera that was otherwise not salvageable. The original M2 viewfinder prism had oxidation and was toast...

New curtains, full CLA. Also has M4-style loading.

I'm calling it an M234. 😉

😱 I love this

 

[splitimageview]

Thanks for your comments. 🙂

I just realized this looks very similar to the Leica M-A...

 

[analoged]

So... M3 frame lines?

 

[jc48375]

I am contemplating on repainting either an M2 or M3 ( I have both ) and my research hasn't really revealed a good and safe way to dechrome the parts; I'd prefer to have it done professionally in the US; I know it can be done at home but it's not worth the risks to my health.

Where would you recommend a professional dechroming in the USA? I prefer a place near Detroit, Michigan. My concern is that smaller pieces / parts might get lost and not handled properly by the big industrial places ( we have lots of those here in the auto industry here in Detroit) ..

As for paint selection, I prefer to have a durable, semi gloss finish in black. Any recommendation is appreciated.. I don't mind baking it either -

I would love to have a step by step guide - my Internet search has revealed some really old links that no longer exist or incomplete

ALL tips, tricks, leads, directions and pointers are greatly appreciated..

Cheers!

 

[splitimageview]

So... M3 frame lines?

Yes, M3 frames. I thought about eliminating the preview lever too; should have done so...

 

[jc48375]

Beautiful work!

Beautiful work!

Beautifully executed..

Would you mind sharing how you dechromed the casing and what kind of pain you have used?

Did you carry out the CLA and install the M4 loading mechanism yourself?

inquiring mind is dying to know -

thank you !

Jimmy

Finished the project...

Lever rewind, no-self timer M2, 1964, #1093xxx, with M3 viewfinder from a donor camera that was otherwise not salvageable. The original M2 viewfinder prism had oxidation and was toast...

New curtains, full CLA. Also has M4-style loading.

I'm calling it an M234. 😉

 

[splitimageview]

Leica paint jobs are not a trivial process. Much much more involved than a forum post can detail. 🙂

Dechroming is not difficult or dangerous if handled properly. Do you want to go all the way to the brass? This isn't necessary if you use robust paint and don't care about brassing. Paint sticks to the nickel quite well. Removing the nickel is a lot more effort...

Finding the proper paint is not easy, either.

Send me a message and I'll be happy to send you some info.

 

[filmtwit]

My early M3

 

[jc48375]

PM sent! THANKS!

Leica paint jobs are not a trivial process. Much much more involved than a forum post can detail. 🙂

Dechroming is not difficult or dangerous if handled properly. Do you want to go all the way to the brass? This isn't necessary if you use robust paint and don't care about brassing. Paint sticks to the nickel quite well. Removing the nickel is a lot more effort...

Finding the proper paint is not easy, either.

Send me a message and I'll be happy to send you some info.