formatting keeps breaking (not sure why). Youxin can probably do curtains and a CLA for closer to $200 +/- 50. M6 will have the faster loading, but a flare-prone finder, different build quality that many aren't too fond of when compared to M3/2/4, and some people grumble about less accurate framelines (don't know about that though). Unless you're doing slide stuff, metering is convenient but Sunny-11 or Sunny-16 can usually get you close enough and if you do it a lot, generally almost spot on. My vote is keep the M2 and get it CLA'd, unless you want the faster loading and/or a meter. Hand-held is going to be better than the M6, though, albeit less convenient.
THe M2s are kind of amazing in their build quality aren't they? And I do find the framelines match up quite well.
M2 is my favorite film M. Have two from 1959 and one is the prettiest Sherry has said she has seen in a long while. It was $1200 from her last year. The second I just got CLA'ed by Youxin Ye and it is the smoothest camera I have ever used but not as pretty. Have an M5 coming from Sherry and having a hard time justifying 3 film M's.
Both M2 and M6 are great cameras. I love the simplicity of the M2 viewfinder but find the meter on the M6 great for use. I would pay for the M2 and give Youxin Ye a call. He is usually cheaper then Sherry. Both do great work.
The M2's finder with just the three available framelines is nice. IT also helps tame my LBA just a little. I've sent a mail to Mr. Ye and he's about 50 bucks cheaper than Sherry. $50 is $50, and his reputation is just as good.
After reading the title I have instant answer. Fix M2, get M6.
IF you're willing to pay for one or both of them, sure. But I don't have that kind of budget. It's Either-or.
While it may be fun to own an M2 and an M6, if you had financial constraints, it may be cheaper overall to get an M6 in good condition. The alternative is to fix the M2 and get a Leica MR meter to put on top of it. The MR-4 is a selective area meter, in that it has the same field of view as a 90mm lens. You need only activate the 90mm frameline and meter.
I do have constraints, and the m6 might indeed be cheaper all told, depending on the M6. I do like the idea of the MR-4 meter though.
I just finished a trip to Toronto, and I brought my M7 and M4-2 with MR-4. After a day with the single framelines of the M4-2 (except for 35/135), the double framelines in the M7 came as a shock. The M4-2 was not much slower than the M7, as once you have an exposure reading you don't need to change the EV unless lighting changes. With the M7 on AUTO I'm used to metering, locking in the setting with a half depressed shutter button, then recomposing.
I can definitely see that, and after shooting a roll in the M2 just to have it in my hands again, I can definitely see where it doesn't slow one down much. Even using a totally separate meter it wasn't bad; it also teaches you to read light rather than let the camera do it. And the technique you describe on the M7 I use a lot on my SLRs.
With respect to the two cameras you are considering:
The M2 has brass top and bottom. The M6 is zinc. There is a risk of bubbling occurring on some M6 finishes. The bubbling is not curable.
The M2 has an extra condenser in the rangefinder system which prevents flare when composing against the light. The M6 lacks this, and can flare the RF patch. I had two early M7s which lacked this feature: 0.72X and 0.85X. Both flared in backlight, especially the 0.85X. Both have had the condenser put in by Leica NJ, USA for $600 each. I know Don Goldberg does these upgrades for less, but he couldn't upgrade the DX film speed reader that my M7s had, so they had to go to Leica.
That sounds un-good for sure, and I do like the build quality of my M. THe lack of flare in the VF is probably something I"d notice if I had an M6, but I don't see my Bessa doing it, either. Still, an advantage is an advantage.
M6 will take the Leica Motor M or the Leicavit M. This depends on how much action you shoot. If you are a deliberate large format shooter, this may not be a consideration to you. There is a Leicavit that fits the M2, but it is very, very costly. DAG has modified an M3 to take the Motor M for me, and I'm sure he could modify your M2 to take these winders if you need them.
My usual style with an M is to shoot street/crowds, some action, but I don't think I need a motor drive or a Leicavit, and it's not like I can afford them anyway. The m2 Leicavit is a definite no. If anything, I may get the Voigtlander trigger winder for the Bessa someday. But my "action" cameras for sports and the like are typically DSLR and Mirrorless, not my film M.
If you do go for an M6, I'd recommend the TTL version. The shutter dial then rotates in the direction indicated by the LEDs, which makes use much more convenient. That's why I like my M7. The TTL has a much larger shutter speed dial than the tiny dial on the M2 or M6 classic. If you keep the M2, that's the main reason I recommend the MR meter - it gives you a large shutter speed dial that overhangs the camera edge, comme le M5. It makes using the M2 much easier.
These are my user observations from using and owning an M2, M3, M4-2, M5, and M7 (as a substitute for M6TTL).
I appreciate your advice and time.
The M2 should have had new curtains in 2010.
Do it now along with CLA and new light shields around shutter.
M2,3,4 are all better cameras than what came later. Frame lines are better, advance smoother, no flare condenser in finder. Risk of vulcanite covering breaking up. Most early M are /were pro cameras and are well used.
M6 has a meter. Some failures of frame counter, zink top is crap, light shields failed in both of mine 20 years ago, can not adjust RF vertical with simple screw driver as you can with the M2. Steel transport gears should last longer.
M6 are old enough now such that the chances of buying one not needing service are low. So the money gets spent anyway.
I was silly and was relying on the previous overhaul technician Ken Ruth to inform me if the curtains were going bad. He did not, so I didn't think to get them replaced. I do plan on replacing both curtains with the next CLA. The leading curtain is OK, but I'm not leaving it.
But that's another statement echoing the praise for the early build quality of the M2/3/4. I have to agree. As for my Vulcanite, that's long gone and replaced with green leather. And that is a lot of good reasons not to spring for the 6, including the fact that I'd probably have to have it serviced right away anyhow.
I've owned both M2 and M6. Both great, both a have a loyal following for various reasons. You own a M2, you know what it needs, I'd repair it. Unless the meter is a deal breaker for you, I'd go M2. You can buy a beater M6, but may find yourself in the same boat having to CLA/repair that as well.
You have a very good point. I know my M2 pretty well and a known quantity is almost always better than an the unknown a new-to-me M6 would be. The Meter's not that big a deal, especially with the afore-described metering options for the M2.
The M2 with the current problems is worth very little. Few buyers are willing to pay for a body that requires major service. Ince you have had it overhauled you might as well keep it. It is one of the best M cameras around, simple and easy yo handle - and you know what it can do.
Used M6's can be fine - but if they need service, it pricey. Don't worry about the zinc top-plate. If it has no bubbles in it now, probably won't develop them later. Viewfinder is usually OK - but busy after the M2's 35/50/90 set up. Early M6's could have problems with the meter circuit - but if it had - it has most likely been fixed. The meter is handy and good. I do prefer the M6 >< display to the M6 TTL >o< read out.
Thanks, Tom! I agree the value of my half-broken M won't be much if I try to sell it. I can't get to the sale price of the M6 for that plus the repair. ANd thanks for the advice of the M6, as well. The TTL readout sounds similar to the one I'm already fairly used to in my Bessa though
🙂
Get the M2 fixed. $500 from Sherry will make it all well for many years.
I can say nothing bad about the M6, but M2 is such a classic.
B2 (;->
Agreed. It may be Youxin Ye, not Sherry, but either way, it'll be good for another half century.
since you already have a bessa r2, I would just fix the m2. saving some money by sending it to youxin is not a bad idea.
I think that's just what I'll do. the $50 saved can buy me some film or go toward a new lens.
without capturing the thread, thinking of getting an M2 myself, I shoot since years without light meter and normally adjust the times quite often, how easy is it with the small speed dial on the M2, possible with the index finger only?
Yogi
Feel free to threadjack
🙂 I just tried rotating the film speed dial with a fingertip with the camera to my eye. It's really not bad! Easier than my MX, not quite as easy as the Bessa. I can see that being even easier with the meter's larger wheel on top.
Sell both and get an M5, serviced by Sherry.
Erik.
What in particular makes you reccomend the M5?
