Leica Motor M - Anyone else use one?

The possible problem is not fatigue, failure caused by multiple load cycles, but creep, permanent deformation caused by constant load. Steel is reasonably resistant to both, but other metals creep badly under load, which is why Neque semper arcum tendit Apollo. I still wouldn't leave a shutter cocked at the overnight.
 
Those of us who collect clockwork things are always told to leave them unwound, we are told that the spring will gradually lose its strength (insert appropriate word) over time if left wound and under load.

When it comes to motors for Leicas I have a Leicaflex Motor for SL/SL2 MOT. It takes 10 AA batteries and goes off like a pneumatic drill. The whole kit should have been supplied with a small wheelbarrow to move it around.
 
I had a 14214 and yes while it was wonderful but it kicked more than any other motor I've ever used. I switched to Rapidwinders once I found out about them and could not have been happier.

I had a SL MOT for a while. It doubled as a weapon when swung from strong (and wide) leather camera straps. Thin straps seemed to cause damage to skin and underlying bits when carried for any length of time.

B2 (;->
 
I still can't get the batteries out. Anyone have a suggestion on how to get the battery door open without damaging the looks?


PF
 
Farlymac, you might try contacting Leica USA for suggestions. Unfortunately, they'll probably ask you to send it in for repair; that will probably cost as much as a good used unit on-line, $300 or so.
 
Farlymac, you might try contacting Leica USA for suggestions. Unfortunately, they'll probably ask you to send it in for repair; that will probably cost as much as a good used unit on-line, $300 or so.

Well, I could dismantle it myself. After the lens I sent their way took over six months to find it's way back, I'm not willing to put up with their lies about the repair progress.

PF
 
I hear you! That's why I said to call for suggestions. I would never, ever, recommend actually sending them anything. My experience with an M3 was similar: a ridiculous wait, hugely inflated bill, and shoddy work. What's not to love?
 
I hear you! That's why I said to call for suggestions. I would never, ever, recommend actually sending them anything. My experience with an M3 was similar: a ridiculous wait, hugely inflated bill, and shoddy work. What's not to love?

The way I see it, first the base lock comes off, then the retainer ring around the drive fork. I think I should leave the four little screws alone, but maybe not. I'll have to find an exploded view of it somewhere.

PF
 
I use 2 different M winders. I started with the M winder. I found one in great shape. The problem was that I couldn't adjust to having it hanging on the bottom, plus weight. It was being used on my M4-P. I purchased the new compact winder with grip. I liked it so much I bought a second. Both were in excellent condition. The M winder now sits in a bag.
 
Farlymac, Popflash has a mint one for sale on their website. Sometimes life's too short, and sanity too precious, to attempt repairs.
 
Farlymac, Popflash has a mint one for sale on their website. Sometimes life's too short, and sanity too precious, to attempt repairs.


After overhauling a Contaflex there isn't much that can faze my sanity. But then some think I lost it anyway when I volunteered for submarine service. They could be right.


PF
 
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