Need information and review about Bessa-R2M or Bessa-R3M

I made a bunch of comments about the R3M a month or so ago. I'm not too sophisticated with navigaing around RFF but I assume you can search my history of threads and find what I wrote. I was lucky enough to pick mine up from Mr. CameraQuest himself. I love that camera, and the lens too.
 
Miguel,
Before I write any more, please be aware that I am new to exchangeable lens rangefinders and I am strictly an amateur at photography. That being said, I have shot with SLR's and fixed-lens rangefinders for many years. A year or two ago I came to the conclusion that I'd like to make a move into exchangeable lens RF's so I looked around and asked questions of photographer friends. To make a long story short, I decided I "needed" a M6 with a 35mm Summicron. Well, as I got closer to taking the plunge I began reading a little more online from users of all types of RF's. In the end, about a month or so ago, I opted for the R3M with a 40mm Nokton (instead of the 50mm that comes as part of the package). I chose this because users of Bessa's seemed, by and large, to be happy with the camera and very happy with the lenses. Essentially I purchased a brand new mechanical RF with a well-regarded lens for the same money as a used M6 (body only). Seemed like the best value.

I no longer have the R3M, but I'll get to that in a minute. First, I really liked the feel of the camera in my hands; it looked good too. Having no experience with "frame lines" at that point, I didn't mind the switch on the top. I really liked the light meter, especially that it measured in exposure values, not acutal numbers but + or -. The built-in grip on the right side of the body is a nice feature too. The viewfinder was very bright and easy to see through. I chose the R3M over the R3A because I don't like depending on batteries - I can get by without a meter.

However, there were some issues.... the viewfinder was out of alignment out of the box; I fixed it with some fine help from the dealer via telephone and email. The strap lugs are not in the right place to allow the camera to rest flat against one's body. The biggest issue though, was that something in the shutter or film advance mechanism failed on the fifth or sixth roll of film I put through it. When I got to about exposure 12, the film advance just kept on going, and going, and going... tripping the shutter at the end of each advance. The first time this happened I didn't know what to do so I rewound my film and tried the camera without any film. It seemed to work just fine at that point, so I inserted another film and started shooting again. But it happened again, at the same exposure count. Once again I rewound the film and tried the camera without film. That second time it stayed broken. I called the dealer and he agreed to refund my purchase price. I shipped the Bessa back and purchased an old "user" M2 the same afternoon. I did keep the 40mm Nokton because I liked the results I had gotten on the 4 or 5 rolls I had shot and developed before the camera broke.

So that's my non-professional review. Perhaps I just had a "lemon", I don't know, but time will tell regarding the dependability of the R3M.

Hope this information helps.
Roger
 
Miguel,

I wrote a review of my R2M and posted it somewhere on this Bessa forum but now I can't find it. Maybe you can...

-g
 
From R3A to R3M

From R3A to R3M

I have an R3A (it is for sale) and an R3M. I wear glasses and use the 40mm lens. It is not a problem. The framelines are not that important as I treat them as "guides" anyway. So far the R3M works flawlessly. can't compare to leica because I have never had one. But compared to decades of Nikon's and little 35mm cameras, I feel like I can go anywhere with the R3M. The shutter is a B+. the ergonimics are an A-, almost perfect for average size hands (oh, it is wrapped in a Luigi half case). I aslo have a 75 mm lens but I always go back to the 40mm. The all manual controls, unlike the R3A force me to think about where I want to be with my subject. takes longer, obviously to decide which f/stop-shutter speed is the right combo, but, hey, I need to slow down life anyway. better results.
Buy an R3M, getting the 1:1 MAGNIFICATION is really nice. You really can keep both eyes open. Subjects have a tendency not to pose. They are more natural. Again better shots.
have a great day!!! being a rangfinder person!:angel:
 
Need information and review about Bessa-R2M or Bessa-R3M

Hello everybody,

I consider to order the R2M.

But at Cameraquest.com i see the pic's of the R2M/R3M from above. And what i miss is an on/off switch. So when it isn't possible to lock the camera, that's asking for pic's of the inside of my bag.
Or am i wrong at this? And do the R2M/R3M have an on/off switch, which didn't see?

Greetz, Marco

P.S. I've been surfing through the galleries here for some time. There is greath stuff. So, i thought this is an good moment to register.🙂 😉
 
Grain said:
Hello everybody,

I consider to order the R2M.

But at Cameraquest.com i see the pic's of the R2M/R3M from above. And what i miss is an on/off switch. So when it isn't possible to lock the camera, that's asking for pic's of the inside of my bag.
Or am i wrong at this? And do the R2M/R3M have an on/off switch, which didn't see?

Greetz, Marco

P.S. I've been surfing through the galleries here for some time. There is greath stuff. So, i thought this is an good moment to register.🙂 😉

Anybody with an answer here?
 
See my comments in various posts about the R3M, most recently about the film frame counter, which may be a similar problem area to the one described above, where it kept firing at each winding...mine isn't doing that yet, but I am going to send it to Cosina. The other thing I could do, I suppose, is ask PhotoVillage for a full refund, but I do like the camera, and it is a fine substitute for a Leica in many ways, even though construction isn't up to Leica's pre-digital standards. The heft of the camera is great, alllowing for long hand held exposures. The meter is accurate, although not a spot meter, so you have to be careful to either meter close or aim down to avoid being influenced by sky. All in all I still like it, but I caution anyone thinking of buying one that there is inconsistency in these cameras, and you may have to send it back for repairs or adjusting shortly after buying it, not a nice thing to have to do. The other way to go would be to put out less money and get one of the remaining L's or R's...
 
No R2M / R3M ON / OFF Switch

No R2M / R3M ON / OFF Switch

Grain said:
M.

But at Cameraquest.com i see the pic's of the R2M/R3M from above. And what i miss is an on/off switch. So when it isn't possible to lock the camera, that's asking for pic's of the inside of my bag.
Or am i wrong at this? And do the R2M/R3M have an on/off switch, which didn't see?

The R2M / R3M are mechanical cameras. There is no on/off switch like the electronic R2A / R3A .

the meter is activated by advancing the shutter and pressing down on the shutter release. The meter will turn off by itself, or when you take the shot.

The meter on the R2M / R3M is more centerweighted than the previous Bessas, but still, thankfully, not a spot meter.

the meter display is superb, showing red LED EV readouts at the bottom of the VF in 1/2 stop plus / minus increments

Stephen
 
One Camera does not a Production Sample Make

One Camera does not a Production Sample Make

mc_vancouver said:
See my comments in various posts about the R3M, most recently about the film frame counter, which may be a similar problem area to the one described above, where it kept firing at each winding...mine isn't doing that yet, but I am going to send it to Cosina. The other thing I could do, I suppose, is ask PhotoVillage for a full refund, but I do like the camera, and it is a fine substitute for a Leica in many ways, even though construction isn't up to Leica's pre-digital standards. The heft of the camera is great, alllowing for long hand held exposures. The meter is accurate, although not a spot meter, so you have to be careful to either meter close or aim down to avoid being influenced by sky. All in all I still like it, but I caution anyone thinking of buying one that there is inconsistency in these cameras, and you may have to send it back for repairs or adjusting shortly after buying it, not a nice thing to have to do. The other way to go would be to put out less money and get one of the remaining L's or R's...

It's too bad you are having such a hard time with your particular camera, but your point of view is a bit limited, with only a sample population of ONE.

NO 35mm M mount camera has ever had a spot meter with a traditional 1 to 3 degree spot like some SLRs, so I am not sure exactly what you point is on not having a spot meter.

Considering that the predigital MP sells new for about $3500 and the R3M for about $600, it should come as no surprise the R3M is not quite up to the Leica standards -- but then, neither is the price tag.

Cosina has consistently improved the Bessas with each new model. The current R2A / R3A / R2M / R3M are all better, more reliable cameras than the previous Bessas. My warranty repair rates on all of these four models are about the same, currently about 2%. My repair tech barely knows what the R2M / R3M's look like.

Relax a bit. Rich will get it all the problems sorted out for you, and you will be a happy Voigtlander camper once again.

Stephen
 
I have an R3M, which I have used with CV 28, 25, and 40mm lenses. After 8 or 9 rolls of ilford HP5, I have not experienced any problems with the film advance, the shutter has worked flawlessly and there have no signs of focus flaws. In theory the 1:1 viewfinder is perfect if you don't wear glasses. It slows
me down and therefore constitutes a nussence. I think I'm ready to sell it. It's a b;ack beauty. I'm asking $500 with a total refund if not completely satisfied. Serious offers welcomed. Email > karmaspapa@yahoo.com
 
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I'm waiting on the delivery of a Bessa R3M, and I was wondering how well the camera has held up for you guys who have had it for a few years.

Are there any issues that only appeared after years of use? Have later model productions improved the quality of these affordable rangefinders? 🙂
 
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