Marihino
Member
that self-timer's lever position is slightly worrying.
Nikon FM vs Olympus OM
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68degrees
Well-known
Ive been spending time on this site. Have any of you been there? Its quite nice. Its quite exhaustive of all the cameras they made and some I never heard of. Shows the entire evolution of the Stylus line as well as the RF and everything else.
http://www.olympus-global.com/en/corc/history/camera/lineup/chronicle/
http://www.olympus-global.com/en/corc/history/camera/lineup/chronicle/
ronnies
Well-known
No it's an FM. You can tell by the shape of the 'Nikon' plate on the front of the prism.
As for ergonomics, Nikon had the shutter speeds round the mount before Olympus did. 😉
Ronnie
Marihino
Member
oh, thanks, I didn't know that detail was different between the two. And yeah, that shutter speed dial was in early Nikkormats, wasn't it? I do really like old Nikons (up until F5), had a couple of them and a nice book about the history, specs of bodies and lenses etc. I use Olympus because it fits my hands and eyes better, and I always like the underdog 😉
ampguy
Veteran
FE looks interesting, smaller alternative or backup to the f3.
Mystyler
Established
Back to the Future by Mystyler13, on Flickr
The OM-1 is a beautiful little camera. I have the 28mm f2.8, 50mm f1.8 and 135mm f3.5 and they all give great images.
kuzano
Veteran
Flash shoe.. removable and likely cracked.
Flash shoe.. removable and likely cracked.
The flash shoes on the OM's were removable... thumbscrew on the back side.
Good news... the camera looked sleeker without the flash shoe attached.
Bad News... Often when you find a nice OM... it may not have the flash shoe with it. There were different flash shoes with differing configurations on the number of pins that went into the camera.... flash shoe 1... flash shoe 2... flash shoe 4.
Almost everyone tightened the thumb wheel on the flash shoot down too much and put two tiny cracks in the corners where the back of the shoe straddled the prism tower.
Finding an OM with a flash shoe without those cracks is a bonus. Not impossible, just a bonus.
However, I don't use flash much, and I rather like the clean look of the flash shoe not on the camera.
Plenty of OM flash shoes available on eBay with two cautions. Ask about the pins. You may get on with too many pins for your camera. Second caution, "ask the seller" if the flash shoe has the two hairline cracks on each side of the thumbwheel where the shoe straddles the prism hump. The sell from $10 to $25.
A link on eBay showing a flash shoe with the two pin config into the camera. There are also one center pin configurations:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Olympus-OM-...hotography_Flash_Adapters&hash=item43b7be482d
The one pictured in this eBay listing is definitely cracked... quite badly
Flash shoe.. removable and likely cracked.
The flash shoes on the OM's were removable... thumbscrew on the back side.
Good news... the camera looked sleeker without the flash shoe attached.
Bad News... Often when you find a nice OM... it may not have the flash shoe with it. There were different flash shoes with differing configurations on the number of pins that went into the camera.... flash shoe 1... flash shoe 2... flash shoe 4.
Almost everyone tightened the thumb wheel on the flash shoot down too much and put two tiny cracks in the corners where the back of the shoe straddled the prism tower.
Finding an OM with a flash shoe without those cracks is a bonus. Not impossible, just a bonus.
However, I don't use flash much, and I rather like the clean look of the flash shoe not on the camera.
Plenty of OM flash shoes available on eBay with two cautions. Ask about the pins. You may get on with too many pins for your camera. Second caution, "ask the seller" if the flash shoe has the two hairline cracks on each side of the thumbwheel where the shoe straddles the prism hump. The sell from $10 to $25.
A link on eBay showing a flash shoe with the two pin config into the camera. There are also one center pin configurations:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Olympus-OM-...hotography_Flash_Adapters&hash=item43b7be482d
The one pictured in this eBay listing is definitely cracked... quite badly
skahde
V for Victory!
I always had a sweet spot for the Nikon FM/FE-series owning a FE2 and two FM2 right now but at one point could not help to get a OM2n, OM4 and a handfull of lenses as the used prices hit the bottom. What most impressed me was, how similar they are.
There are differences here and there: The OM-Winders are loud and slow and show their older age even compared to a MD12, the OMs are smaller and have very nice finders but lack aperture-readout.
After some time using both and carefully comparing my favored lenses (28mm, 50mm, 100mm, 200mm) I found little reason to choose one system over the other besides personal needs and preference. Even in lenses there were no clear winners only different characters with no clear correlation to one brand or the other.
There are differences here and there: The OM-Winders are loud and slow and show their older age even compared to a MD12, the OMs are smaller and have very nice finders but lack aperture-readout.
After some time using both and carefully comparing my favored lenses (28mm, 50mm, 100mm, 200mm) I found little reason to choose one system over the other besides personal needs and preference. Even in lenses there were no clear winners only different characters with no clear correlation to one brand or the other.
jcb4718
Well-known
I think you've pretty much hit the nail on the head, Skahde, and echoed what some of the other contributors have said. I have a couple of OM 1n's and a couple of OM2000's. I handled a Nikon once (an FM2). There are differences of course, between all three cameras in fact. But in general if you are just using one camera (i.e. not comparing cameras) you will adapt to its idiosyncracies and simply use it. As for the lenses (I only have Zuiko primes), they all have their own particular characteristics (e.g. wide-open a particular lens might produce an image a little softer at the edges if I really look closely enough) but it rarely seems to matter in a final print. That said I have a specific application: I take my camera when trekking and here I liked the small size and relative lightness of the OM 1n. The OM2000 (heresy, I know) is even lighter so its now my camera of choice in this particular case. Also it synchronises flash at a higher speed (1/125 sec) which helps when using fill-in flash to take 'I was here' snapshots in high contrast (i.e. bright sunlight) conditions.
Last edited:
Timmyjoe
Veteran
Try both and see which one "fits" you better. I've had an FM for almost twenty years, it's my last Nikon film body, but it gets used rarely because the way that body fits my hand, the way I hold a camera, the little self timer lever digs into one of my knuckles. I can really only use it with the battery grip on it, which then makes it pretty heavy. I've got a friend and the FM fits his hand perfectly, even without the battery grip. So it's really something personal. If you can, try each one.
As far as reliability goes, the FM is built like a tank. I don't know the Oly, but it would have to be really something to be better built than the FM.
Best,
-Tim
As far as reliability goes, the FM is built like a tank. I don't know the Oly, but it would have to be really something to be better built than the FM.
Best,
-Tim
kshapero
South Florida Man
I have been a Nikon Shooter since the mid 70's. I have owned a Nikon F, F2, F3, F4, FM, FM2n, FM3a, FE, FE2, etc. I used them professionally in the harshest conditions. In 1991 Olympus tried to persuade me to switch by seeding me 2 OM4Ti's and a slew of lenses. For 18 months I used the hell out of them. You cannot go wrong with either brand. But if you said I was going to shoot a press conference or shoot in the wild, I would go Nikon. Take a test. Put a FE2 and a OM4ti side by side. Look at them closely.
Nonetheless don't be a gear snub, just go out and shoot.
Nonetheless don't be a gear snub, just go out and shoot.
maitani
Well-known
after a long phase in the leica M buying/selling swamp, almost going bankrupt by fraudster gang on the bay, I seem to have come to my senses again, I Love Leica M, yes I do, but this is where my heart beats
when I peek through that OM-3 finder with 2-13 screen mounted and some F2 glass it s a step closer to heaven
when I peek through that OM-3 finder with 2-13 screen mounted and some F2 glass it s a step closer to heaven
filmfan
Well-known
I would love a 2-13 screen for my OM-4! Can't find one anywhere...
dtcls100
Well-known
You have to keep looking often and hard. They do come up for sale from time to time, but rarely. I got one last year off of the misc classifieds here for $85. Saw another one sold on eBay for an exorbitant amount -- around $200+. That's the problem, they now go for a ton of money given their rarity and how much people who have them like them, as they are really great.
dtcls100
Well-known
Actually, there are a 3 OM 2-13 screens for sale on eBay right now, with two of them being offered by Olympus USA.
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
I was an OM nut, partly because holding an OM-1 several years ago was my first revelation to the goodness that is film photography. The above is a slightly older photo of my OM3 kit.
The OM-3 has 2-13 focusing screen inside, also sporting the detachable grip that fits both OM-3 and OM-4 series.
The 18mm on the camera and the 55mm/1.2 on the left-front are gone, the 35/2 stays, the 24/2.8 has been replaced by a 24/2, and I still have the 300/4.5 (a very good lens). Not in the picture is my favorite 85mm lens of any brand, the Zuiko 85/2.
bigeye
Well-known
Ah..., I don't know what kind of lawn mower I have.
> You've got the Big Yard King 410.
>> I like the old 380.
> You're out of your mind! The grass catcher on a 410 has a third more capacity than a 380. That alone makes it a better unit.
>> It doesn't matter how many cubic feet you can get. The 410 is gonna fall apart. It's got a plastic flywheel.
> You're gonna have a major lawsuit on your hands. You're asking for it.
>> The government will not buy a 410 because of the danger involved with the plastic flywheel...
<brawl>
.
> You've got the Big Yard King 410.
>> I like the old 380.
> You're out of your mind! The grass catcher on a 410 has a third more capacity than a 380. That alone makes it a better unit.
>> It doesn't matter how many cubic feet you can get. The 410 is gonna fall apart. It's got a plastic flywheel.
> You're gonna have a major lawsuit on your hands. You're asking for it.
>> The government will not buy a 410 because of the danger involved with the plastic flywheel...
<brawl>
.
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
I might as well throw in my 2d worth. I can remember the sensation the OM-1 caused when it first appeared in the early 70's and then the second sensation when lens tests started appearing that made it a benchmark for the others. It also inspired a range of small cameras from all the other makers as, until then, they were all large and heavy. It's best point, apart from the lenses, were the screen - big and bright - and the lack of all that noise from the shutter.
I had the OM-1N years ago but got rid of it when I got the OM-2N which offered the best of both worlds, meaning manual with TTL match needle metering and aperture priority. I also had an OM10 as a spare body, which was purely automatic but had a brilliant manual adapter available.
I still have the OM2N but started looking around a few years ago for one of the first OM-1's, meaning the version before the MD OM-1. I eventually found one in good condition but with foam rot affecting the prism. I had a word with Michael Spencer who was able to fit a newer and better prism from an OM10. He also converted it to take the SR44 battery instead of the old mercury one. I also searched for a type 1-13 screen for it as I preferred that style of screen. They are easy to find on ebay and very, very simple to change.
I also sought out another OM10 as they are available dirt cheap these days, which is a pity as they are good cameras with a brilliant metering system. If you just want to "taste" the system then look for an OM10 as they often come very cheap to cheap with the standard f/1.8 lens and have a hot shoe that takes the (also cheap) Olympus T20 flash. They also make excellent second or back-up bodies if you get serious about the range. Like the OM-2's they need two SR44 batteries. (The OM-1 took one mercury battery.) Take two SR44s with you if searching for them, they will enable you to check the camera without locking up the mirror.
The range of lenses is second to none in my opinion and there are several accessories for the camera that make it even easer to us, for example, the bracket for the flash that raises it high above the camera. BTW, the hot shoe is detachable and comes in several versions. Some have right hand threads and others left hand threads, so no problems getting the wrong one.
A minor point, the OM-2's mirror will lock up if it is wound on when the battery is dead or missing. Turn the battery switch to "check - reset" and it will come down. The other point is to look for a body and then the f/1.4 standard lens which many see as a bargain these day. The f/2 85mm lens is the one that everyone chases after. If you get the chance go for the original Olympus metal lens hoods, the Olympus rubbery ones are not so good but are cheap and plentiful. A lot of the lenses take 49mm filters, which is useful.
Regards, David
I might as well throw in my 2d worth. I can remember the sensation the OM-1 caused when it first appeared in the early 70's and then the second sensation when lens tests started appearing that made it a benchmark for the others. It also inspired a range of small cameras from all the other makers as, until then, they were all large and heavy. It's best point, apart from the lenses, were the screen - big and bright - and the lack of all that noise from the shutter.
I had the OM-1N years ago but got rid of it when I got the OM-2N which offered the best of both worlds, meaning manual with TTL match needle metering and aperture priority. I also had an OM10 as a spare body, which was purely automatic but had a brilliant manual adapter available.
I still have the OM2N but started looking around a few years ago for one of the first OM-1's, meaning the version before the MD OM-1. I eventually found one in good condition but with foam rot affecting the prism. I had a word with Michael Spencer who was able to fit a newer and better prism from an OM10. He also converted it to take the SR44 battery instead of the old mercury one. I also searched for a type 1-13 screen for it as I preferred that style of screen. They are easy to find on ebay and very, very simple to change.
I also sought out another OM10 as they are available dirt cheap these days, which is a pity as they are good cameras with a brilliant metering system. If you just want to "taste" the system then look for an OM10 as they often come very cheap to cheap with the standard f/1.8 lens and have a hot shoe that takes the (also cheap) Olympus T20 flash. They also make excellent second or back-up bodies if you get serious about the range. Like the OM-2's they need two SR44 batteries. (The OM-1 took one mercury battery.) Take two SR44s with you if searching for them, they will enable you to check the camera without locking up the mirror.
The range of lenses is second to none in my opinion and there are several accessories for the camera that make it even easer to us, for example, the bracket for the flash that raises it high above the camera. BTW, the hot shoe is detachable and comes in several versions. Some have right hand threads and others left hand threads, so no problems getting the wrong one.
A minor point, the OM-2's mirror will lock up if it is wound on when the battery is dead or missing. Turn the battery switch to "check - reset" and it will come down. The other point is to look for a body and then the f/1.4 standard lens which many see as a bargain these day. The f/2 85mm lens is the one that everyone chases after. If you get the chance go for the original Olympus metal lens hoods, the Olympus rubbery ones are not so good but are cheap and plentiful. A lot of the lenses take 49mm filters, which is useful.
Regards, David
68degrees
Well-known
are you saying that some FMs have interchangeable focusing screens?
Phil_F_NM
Camera hacker
You can stick other focusing screens into the FM but finding them specifically for the FM may be almost impossible in any other pattern than the one which came in the camera from the factory. If you can find a screen which is as thick as or slightly thinner than the original screen, you can hack it to fit the camera and focus fine.
I did this to my Nikon D3. Nikon doesn't make a split prism screen for their full frame cameras so I took the very inexpensive coarse matte/split prism screen from the Canon EOS 1v and filed down the little tabs at the edges, made sure it was the same size overall and stuck it in the camera. It works perfectly. I can shoot anything, even sports with a 300mm lens using this setup. Next digital body I get I'm hacking it again because I prefer manual focus lenses.
The screen in the camera is just the matte ground glass where the aerial image is made plainly visible. As long as you can ensure the matte surface distance is in the same plane where the original screen is, you can stick any groundglass in there if it fits. Don't scratch your prism.
Phil Forrest
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