Scanning with a digital camera

Scanning with a digital camera

I have just now purchased a camera scanning kit to replace both my Epson V600 and lab scanning.
I have 12 rolls of film from travel waiting for development. The cost of scanning them at high-res will go a ways to cover the cost of this buy.
I already have a Sony NEX-7 but as it is APS-C and I don’t already have a macro lens I decided to purchase a new kit.
I chose a Nikon D700, Nikkor 55mm f2.8 Micro AIS and a PK-13 extension all from KEH using the 12pc off coupon.
(SAVE2, ends Feb 8 at 2359EST.)
All equipment is EXC grade and based on recent experience with KEH purchase I do not expect any problems.
I will use my old SLIK travel tripod as the Centre stem reverses to permit upside-down mounting.
I have a art-school backlit light box (10x14in) a small slide viewer light pad (6x5in) and an iPad to use a light sources.
I have a better scanning ANR glass for 35mm that fits on the light box.
Next step is to upgrade LR from 5.6 so that I can use the Negative Lab plugin which only works in LR6 and LR CC.
I already have several Nikon MF lens so the D700 will not be exclusively dedicated to this project. I am really looking forward to using this body in the field as I have read many, many glowing reviews.
In the end I may sell the NEX-7 and lenses (Zeiss AF 24/1.8, Zeiss AF 55/1.8, Sigma 19/1.9) and grow the Nikon AF collection, esp a zoom for my kids events.



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maigo said:
I have just now purchased a camera scanning kit to replace both my Epson V600 and lab scanning.
I have 12 rolls of film from travel waiting for development. The cost of scanning them at high-res will go a ways to cover the cost of this buy.
I already have a Sony NEX-7 but as it is APS-C and I don’t already have a macro lens I decided to purchase a new kit.
I chose a Nikon D700, Nikkor 55mm f2.8 Micro AIS and a PK-13 extension all from KEH using the 12pc off coupon.
(SAVE2, ends Feb 8 at 2359EST.)
All equipment is EXC grade and based on recent experience with KEH purchase I do not expect any problems.
I will use my old SLIK travel tripod as the Centre stem reverses to permit upside-down mounting.
I have a art-school backlit light box (10x14in) a small slide viewer light pad (6x5in) and an iPad to use a light sources.
I have a better scanning ANR glass for 35mm that fits on the light box.
Next step is to upgrade LR from 5.6 so that I can use the Negative Lab plugin which only works in LR6 and LR CC.
I already have several Nikon MF lens so the D700 will not be exclusively dedicated to this project. I am really looking forward to using this body in the field as I have read many, many glowing reviews.
In the end I may sell the NEX-7 and lenses (Zeiss AF 24/1.8, Zeiss AF 55/1.8, Sigma 19/1.9) and grow the Nikon AF collection, esp a zoom for my kids events.



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Click to expand...

1. I really recommend a copy stand over reversing a tripod. About $150 on ebay
2. If you are just scanning 35mm, you need neither the tripod nor the copy stand. Just get a Nikon ES-2 film holder. No need to much around with ANR glass, fiddle with the tripod etc. Makes it so easy, quick and simple.
 
Scanning with a digital camera

Huss said:
1. I really recommend a copy stand over reversing a tripod. About $150 on ebay

2. If you are just scanning 35mm, you need neither the tripod nor the copy stand. Just get a Nikon ES-2 film holder. No need to much around with ANR glass, fiddle with the tripod etc. Makes it so easy, quick and simple.
Click to expand...


Hi Huss,

Yes, I recognize the tripod is unstable, fiddly and gets in your way but it is what I have now. Frustration (and available desk space) will likely drive me to an ES-2.

I shoot mostly 35mm but have a backlog of 120 scanning to catch up on. Which model of copy stand would you recommend?

Then there are the picks from my grandfathers slide collection. Still waiting to be scanned after I inherited them 11 years ago.


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I use a Pentax K1, 100mm macro and an old LP 6x7 enlarger with the copy stand attachment. Works really well and less expensive than a similarly stable copy stand.



Only challenge, and I would welcome thoughts, is how to get good colour from colour neg film?


Mike
 
Just out of curiosity, do any copy stands use Arca Swiss style plates? If not, I could just stick a quick release on it.
 
I just picked up a Canon 50mm f2.5 and extender to do some film scanning with my 5Ds. Very curious to see what Tri-x and Portra look like at 50mp! While I don't think those will actually hold up, I'm ordering some T-MAX to see how that looks. Anyone have an recommendations for a high resolution B&W film that could be developed at a normal lab (no microfilms, etc)?
 
Fuji TX-2, 45mm, Kodak E100, Z7 scan.

Broadway Tunnel aka Robert C.Levy Tunnel, San Francisco. No tripod, camera balanced on hand railing.

 
KM-25 said:
Nice! What lens are you using on the Z7 to scan with?
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Nikkor 60 2.8G w/ FTZ adaptor. I traded from the D to the G as the D lenses do not AF with the Z bodies. Which is a huge mistake on Nikon's part. The FTZ adapter does not even have an aperture feeler.
 
Huss said:
Nikkor 60 2.8G w/ FTZ adaptor. I traded from the D to the G as the D lenses do not AF with the Z bodies. Which is a huge mistake on Nikon's part. The FTZ adapter does not even have an aperture feeler.
Click to expand...

I'm in the same boat although I can manually focus with the magnification set way high on the Z7. I might have to bite the bullet and get the G...
 
Huss I just ordered the ES-2 and the 60mm G lens for my Z7. Do you do anything with the Active D Lighting setting? Would that, theoretically, help reveal more shadow detail? Or does that not make a difference?
 
KM-25 said:
I'm in the same boat although I can manually focus with the magnification set way high on the Z7. I might have to bite the bullet and get the G...
Click to expand...

Using AF is so so so much easier. And more accurate. It instantly focuses on the grain. I did the manual thing first (back with my D750) and would never go back to that!
You need the FTZ adapter to make it work. And the G lens. With the DLSRs (750, 850) no adapter needed, and focus via AF in LiveView mode.
 
Vince Lupo said:
Huss I just ordered the ES-2 and the 60mm G lens for my Z7. Do you do anything with the Active D Lighting setting? Would that, theoretically, help reveal more shadow detail? Or does that not make a difference?
Click to expand...

I assume you also ordered an FTZ adapter (if you don't already have one).
I have never tried the Active D mode. Let us know how that works out! (what is it meant to do?). You get so much info already but it would be interesting to see the difference. I'll try it on my next roll if I remember.

Oh, set the WB manually to daylight. Just so you always are starting at the same point when u process your images. When I had AWB the camera would vary shot by shot which meant each shot had to have a fresh base reading off the film base when you convert it.
When u fix the WB, you just need one base reading (using negativelabpro) then create that film profile. Only need to do it once per film brand/type.
 
maigo said:
Thanks Huss,
There some Vancouver area camera swap meets in March and April that might have some copy stand treasure.

Michael.


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Click to expand...
Keep in mind that an old enlarger baseboard and column usually can work a a copy stand. Entire used enlargers can be bought for $50. The Durst 6x6 models had straight vertical columns that are sufficiently heavy duty to be used as copy stands.
 
Huss said:
I assume you also ordered an FTZ adapter (if you don't already have one).
I have never tried the Active D mode. Let us know how that works out! (what is it meant to do?). You get so much info already but it would be interesting to see the difference. I'll try it on my next roll if I remember.

Oh, set the WB manually to daylight. Just so you always are starting at the same point when u process your images. When I had AWB the camera would vary shot by shot which meant each shot had to have a fresh base reading off the film base when you convert it.
When u fix the WB, you just need one base reading (using negativelabpro) then create that film profile. Only need to do it once per film brand/type.
Click to expand...

Yes I have the FTZ adapter, so no worries there. Active D Lighting boosts shadow detail and has a few levels of adjustment (and usually you have to adjust your exposure depending upon which level you choose), so my thought was that by implementing it you might be able to capture as much shadow detail as possible from the neg or slide.

Good advice on the white balance - I was considering using a large Dracast LED video light as my light source, as it’s adjustable both for light intensity and color temperature.
 
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