Tri-X in HC-110. What is your workflow?

[p.giannakis]

Hi everyone.

I have been using Tri-X for a number of years and has been developing it in Rodinal. Recently i run out of Rodinal and decided to give HC-110 a try. Searching on the internet about developing times, dilutions etc.. i got more confused.

Can we start a thread with focus on a few things

1. How do you expose Tri-X that you are planing to develop in HC-110 (what iso)
2. What is the dilution/developing/agitation that you use
3. Can you post a sample picture?

Thank you.

Edit: Sorry, i forgot to mention. I have the full strength HC-110 (American version).

 

[kanzlr]

I expose at 400, use HC-110B and use the MassiveDev recommended procedure of 5:30 at 21°C

I don't think I have a sample online, but I can upload one later today.

 

[finguanzo]

HC-110 Dilution B. 6:30 minutes, agitate 2 times a minute or so. I shoot it at box speed.

 

[Pete B]

Can I ask how long the stock solution and the concentrate (once opened) last? I've often thought of trying this solution, and my D76 stocks are depleted. I'm hoping for less grain and more convenience with TriX.
Pete

 

[finguanzo]

I divide a bottle of hc110 into smaller glass bottles, so they are air tight.. I use it direct, stock solution one shot every time i develop. Have used stock solution thats been about 2 years old, no issues. Just dont dilute it, mix it from stock stock..

 

[pschauss]

I use dilution H (1:63) mixed directly from concentrate, developing for 11 minutes at 20 degrees C. I agitate by inversion for the first 30 seconds and then do seven inversions every 30 seconds.

In concentrated form HC-110 lasts indefinitely. I recently finished a bottle which I probably had for five years. The last few drops in the bottom of the bottle were bright red and it still gave me consistent results.

 

[Filzkoeter]

Dil B @ 6:30 is a good starting point.

But always, always inverse vigorously 5 times each 30 seconds. That is a must.

May I ask you why? I never understood the need for the cocktail-shaking-kodak agitation method.

I just started to try out dilution H with minimal agitation (3 agitations every 3 minutes, slightly longer times, around 15min. for tri-x/tmax at 400) and it seems to give me better results they B with 3 agitations every minute. Never tried to cocktail-shake my films though.
But I'm also quite sloppy with my exposures, everything that compensates slightly in the development stage fit's me right.

What are the pros & cons for the recommended Kodak-cocktail-shaking-agitation-method?

 

[mfogiel]

I have been typically exposing at EI 250, diluting 1:45 (20cc in 900cc tank) and developing for 6 minutes at 20C with 5 sec agitation every 30 seconds. The tonality is very good, sharpness is OK and the grain is visible, but not obtrusive. ( You will get more grain than with D76 Pete). Here's an example:
20124409 by marek fogiel, on Flickr

On a side note - if you are a fan of Rodinal and like no hassle liquid developers with good acutance, you should try Acurol N - I am currently experimenting with it, so don't yet have pictures ready to post, but it definitely is a "better Rodinal", and equally flexible in dilutions. Main advantages: smaller grain and more linear characteristic curve.

 

[charjohncarter]

1. I shoot it at 200
2. I use HC-110h, 11:45 minutes,30 seconds initial gentle inversion agitation, then 3 inversions at 10 minutes, 6 minutes, and 2 minutes.
3. Here are more than you can look at:

https://www.flickr.com/search/?user_id=8178676@N04&sort=date-taken-desc&text=Trix&view_all=1

 

[paulfish4570]

i run hp5 in hc-110, dilution H, 75F, 10.5 minutes; swirl agitation 10 seconds to start, then 5 seconds gently every minute. used the same flow for Tri-X; i use HP5 only because it dries so much flatter. and yes, hc-110 syrup lasts forever ...

 

[Pete B]

. ( You will get more grain than with D76 Pete).

Thank you.
Pete

 

[filmtwit]

I tend to shoot Tri-x at 1600 for night or and lower light shooting.
I use a mix of Unofficial HC110 page and Massive Dev chart at the Digital Truth. So for TriX@1600 it would HC110 Dilution B for 16min. I'll mix straight from concentrate so I'd mix 7.5ml into a 300ml or water for a single roll. Three inversions every 30 seconds.


http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=Tri-X+400&Developer=HC-110&mdc=Search&TempUnits=C
http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

TriX@1600 in HC110

 

[kanzlr]

my hc-110 sirup is 4 years old and still works perfectly well (Altought it turned red now)

 

[Pioneer]

i have to agree with Ned on this one.

i always follow the manufacturer's recommendation unless there are clear and proven reasons not to.

In the past i would have problems with uneven development and it nearly drove me nuts trying to cure it. One day i read Kodak's datasheet on the film and decided to follow their recommendation as closely as I could, including agitation. Voila, no more uneven development and I love my prints. It even helps solve wierd problems with your scanning workflow.

 

[Bob Michaels]

Developing Tri-X in HC-110 is a process that Kodak has done much scientific research to arrive at basic starting techniques. Rather than you starting with whatever tweaked technique that works for someone else with their water, thermometer, method of metering, etc., etc, etc. why not start with the well researched Kodak recommendations?

Tri-X in HC-110 has been my standard for years. After trying many tweaks, I have settled on something so close to the Kodak recommendations.

I suggest downloading the Kodak HC-110 eight page technical publication J-24

Unless of course you believe that old "ILeicaDude" in BFE knows more about Tri-X in HC-110 than Kodak does.

 

[Raskolnikov]

Tri-X exposed @250, 12:30 m in dilution H, (gently) agitate, three inversions every minute.
https://flic.kr/p/iTnB2y
https://flic.kr/p/ksWUhK

 

[leicapixie]

HC-110 in Europe may be different to what Kodak USA sells here in Canada and USA.
I use the original full strength USA, HC-110.
I couldn't figger out those wild 1:63 dilutions.
I use 1:50 with slight less development.
My experiences with TRI-X were OK, but I hate the curl.
A major problem for my "found in the street" Canon scanner.
It cannot or won't scan curved negs.
So I use Ilford film HP+5 or mostly Kentmere 400.
I used Rodinal for about 40+ years but no more.
I love the no chemical fog on film base, the tight grain and developer lasts forever.
I use a stop bath(Kodak it stinks) and Ilford Rapid fixer.
I use 2 fixer baths.
There are a few charts to work with.
The Kodak one is suspect in being too short times!
Enjoy.

 

[GarageBoy]

I always followed the agitation and time for the developer's manufacturer (i.e. Ilfords 4x in 10s every minute when using DD-X, Kodaks 5/5 every 30s when using Kodak juice) - figured that's how they got their starting point times

 

[Filzkoeter]

Can you still buy this "European HC110"? I've never ever seen a bottle of it anywhere in any store.

 

[Bingley]

These days, I usually develop Tri-X in Diafine, exposed at iso 800. However, when I want to minimize grain and go for a smoother look, I develop in HC 110 dil. h, following a procedure similar to charjohncarter's above: I expose at 250, develop in HC 110 dil. h for 11:30 mins., 30 second initial agitation and then three inversions every three minutes counting down. Sample:

Belem by bingley0522, on Flickr