using the Summaron f/3.5 35mm

Huss..I want that 28 2.8 asph...no distortion to be seen.. what a great travel lens..
What do you use for a lenshood on the Summaron f3.5?

It's the metal lens hood from Leica that is marked Summicron 50, Summaron 3.5 (or something to that effect). I already had one for my Summicron v1 so it worked out nicely.

I have to say I am really surprised by the Summaron 35. I pixel peeped with my M240 and the lens looks really freakin' good. Bottom line, Leica does not, and never did, make weak lenses.
 
Thx you guys for the hood suggestions..!
I gotta get one and start using my Summaron 3.5 more..its build quality and resolution is outstanding.
Maybe I have something that fits..in my old Leica lens hood collection..
The 3.5 is also great on a micro 4/3's cam..works as a 70mm and just uses the best center part of the glass..
 
I've got one of these lenses and very much look forward to using it on an M4. However, the lens and goggles are both hazy. I've been told the goggles are hard to open up and harder to calibrate once they're cleaned, and there's a significant cost jump for the repair. Would it be worth having them serviced when I send the lens in for a CLA?
 
I received my Goggled 35mm 3.5 Summaron and ran a test roll of HP5 @1600 over the weekend
Fantastic result, matches well on my M3 DS and50mm collapsible summicron and ITDOO hood.
Leica M3 + 35mm Summaron + HP5+ @ 1600 by Earl Dieta, on Flickr
Leica M3 + 35mm Summaron + HP5+ @ 1600 by Earl Dieta, on Flickr
Leica M3 + 35mm Summaron + HP5+ @ 1600 by Earl Dieta, on Flickr

Taemo,

I love the information on the sides of negatives, i.e.; coupons, I believe.
I'd like to know what type of scanner did you use?

David
 
Taemo,

I love the information on the sides of negatives, i.e.; coupons, I believe.
I'd like to know what type of scanner did you use?

David
hi david, i no longer own a scanner and instead been using a light table and my digital camera to scan my negatives.
this was 'scanned' with a fuji apsc sensor and 50mm with extension tube, i cant get a full 1:1 scan hence i end up shooting including the sprockets and cropping.
 
hi david, i no longer own a scanner and instead been using a light table and my digital camera to scan my negatives.
this was 'scanned' with a fuji apsc sensor and 50mm with extension tube, i cant get a full 1:1 scan hence i end up shooting including the sprockets and cropping.


Very interesting and thanks for the response/information....

I also have a 35mm f3.5 Summaron and love that little lens...
 
The f/3.5 version is better than the f/2.8 version, wich is a superb lens already.

Leica M5, Summaron-M 35mm f/3.5, 400-2TMY.

Erik.

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I'd love to see more color shots with this lens - currently deciding whether to have a hazy copy repaired or just sell it for something else. Does haze affect color/tonality at all on these lenses, or should I expect similar color results after having it cleaned?
 
I'd love to see more color shots with this lens - currently deciding whether to have a hazy copy repaired or just sell it for something else. Does haze affect color/tonality at all on these lenses, or should I expect similar color results after having it cleaned?

Here's one color shot on Kodak Ektar:


Mine was pretty hazy when I got it. Definitely affected color and contrast.
 
Summaron 35/3.5

Summaron 35/3.5

This was in an M3 kit I recently got. What version is this? M mount. I have had the goggled M3 version, but this is not set up for goggles. It does work correctly on my M3 & M4-2.
Click on image for larger view.
 

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just picked up this beauty.

serial dates it at 1954, it's an 'M3 without specs' version. glass is hazy, sending out to clear that up and have flange milled to bring up 35mm lines.
 

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I'd love to see more color shots with this lens - currently deciding whether to have a hazy copy repaired or just sell it for something else. Does haze affect color/tonality at all on these lenses, or should I expect similar color results after having it cleaned?

Taken w/ the f3.5 LTM version on Kodak 400 Max:

Red by bingley0522, on Flickr
 
The worst thing about the early non-goggled bayonet version of the Summaron 35mm f3.5 is that it does not bring up the 35mm framelines (it was built early on, at a time when the only Leica bayonet camera was the M3, which of course did not have 35mm framelines). I have one which has been CLA'd and like its rendering very much. It is identical so far as I can tell to the LTM version which however has a different external appearance being smaller physically (as unlikely as this sounds as the bayonet one is pretty small itself) and taking the slip on filters not the 39mm screw in ones.

Back to the frameline issue - this can be corrected by a technician who will file the bayonet lug to bring up the right framelines. I asked the guy who CLA'd my lens to do this while it was in the shop, but he forgot so I have just persisted and now instead use the manual frameline switch on the front of the camera instead. I understand I can do it myself but have never been game to try.

I will see if I can find some shots to post here.
 
I'd love to see more color shots with this lens - currently deciding whether to have a hazy copy repaired or just sell it for something else. Does haze affect color/tonality at all on these lenses, or should I expect similar color results after having it cleaned?

It is worth having the lens CLA'd. Mine looked clear enough till I shined a bright light through it. It is as you know it is hard to see clearly into the lens as the glass is pretty small on these tiny lenses. I found a lot of flare from the haze and the cleaning improved things markedly. It now performs nicely. Of course it was especially bad when shot against a bright light but I found the contrast to have been lowered considerably in all circumstances (I guess that, because the elements are so small, they are especially sensitive to haze build up - it does not take much).

Even after cleaning, a lens hood is advisable with this lens as the lens is still a bit flare prone due to its early single coating (and it is sometimes hard to clean all of the internal haze without affecting the soft internal coating) . If you cannot find the right Leica one you can use an aftermarket one from eBay - which I do in any event as although I have correct Leica ones they are too expensive for every day use. I use one similar to the following but somewhat deeper. It is a 43mm diameter one so you will need a 39mm to 43mm stepping ring which is what I did as I could not find the hood I wanted in 39mm at that time. You may be luckier. In either event it really does not matter as the cost is a couple of bucks all in. Also this arrangement allows me to use the same hood on various lenses with different barrel sizes by swapping out the stepping ring. So I am happy with that arrangement.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/43mm-Metal-...677849?hash=item2f02b1ecd9:g:fHYAAOSwrhBZAtuf
 
The worst thing about the early non-goggled bayonet version of the Summaron 35mm f3.5 is that it does not bring up the 35mm framelines (it was built early on, at a time when the only Leica bayonet camera was the M3, which of course did not have 35mm framelines). I have one which has been CLA'd and like its rendering very much. It is identical so far as I can tell to the LTM version which however has a different external appearance being smaller physically (as unlikely as this sounds as the bayonet one is pretty small itself) and taking the slip on filters not the 39mm screw in ones.

Back to the frameline issue - this can be corrected by a technician who will file the bayonet lug to bring up the right framelines. I asked the guy who CLA'd my lens to do this while it was in the shop, but he forgot so I have just persisted and now instead use the manual frameline switch on the front of the camera instead. I understand I can do it myself but have never been game to try.

I will see if I can find some shots to post here.

have it professionally milled. i've had two m-rokkor 40mm lenses milled by DAG and they are fantastic.
 
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