BigSteveG
Well-known
I just won a 2.8 Planar model on the 'bay.....not sure if it's an E or an F model at this point. How to tell the difference? Any user tips?
mike kim
Established
By the serial number: http://home.worldonline.dk/rongsted/Rolleisn.htm
A difference you can see between the E and the F model is the timer lever (E has it on the left and F on the right) and the shutter speed (numbered in E and plain black in F).
You can check different 2.8 models here: http://www.siufai.dds.nl/Rolleiflex28_TLR.htm
A difference you can see between the E and the F model is the timer lever (E has it on the left and F on the right) and the shutter speed (numbered in E and plain black in F).
You can check different 2.8 models here: http://www.siufai.dds.nl/Rolleiflex28_TLR.htm
Last edited:
KoNickon
Nick Merritt
Also, an easy way to check is that the E does not have the removable hood.
R
rich815
Guest
KoNickon said:
Some E's do. My 3.5E3 Xenotar does. My 2.8E Planar does not. However, the 2.8E had a second version called the E2 and it's screen is interchangeable with removable hood. The second version is much rarer with only 7,000 units made vs. 44,000 of the first version.
More info here:
http://www.rolleiclub.com/cameras/tlr/info/A-F_tlr.shtml
R
rich815
Guest
Oh, and congrats on the purchase. I have 4 Rolleiflexes and a Rolleicord. I love them.
If you decide your's needs work or a good CLA, call Paul Ebel in Wisconsin (651) 335-8759. He's very reasonable, a real friendly guy, and does great work. I'd even suggest if you do get a CLA to have a Maxwell screen drop-shipped direct to Paul to install for you while he does the CLA. HUGE difference in clarity, brightness and focusing.
If you decide your's needs work or a good CLA, call Paul Ebel in Wisconsin (651) 335-8759. He's very reasonable, a real friendly guy, and does great work. I'd even suggest if you do get a CLA to have a Maxwell screen drop-shipped direct to Paul to install for you while he does the CLA. HUGE difference in clarity, brightness and focusing.
BigSteveG
Well-known
Thanks guys.......
Thanks guys.......
I think it's an F so it should be worth putting the money into for a CLA....apparently the meter is working...will have it checked for accuracy...I do plan on installing the Maxwell screen....are UV filters available for these things?
Thanks guys.......
I think it's an F so it should be worth putting the money into for a CLA....apparently the meter is working...will have it checked for accuracy...I do plan on installing the Maxwell screen....are UV filters available for these things?
BigSteveG
Well-known
Anyone know Harry Fleenor here in
Anyone know Harry Fleenor here in
So Ca? He appears to be a good Rollei tech.
Anyone know Harry Fleenor here in
So Ca? He appears to be a good Rollei tech.
R
rich815
Guest
BigSteveG said:
He's really good. But is typically backed up and can take 3-6 weeks. Paul took about 1-2 weeks on each of three different fix-ups/CLA's he did for me. Plus a little cheaper too.
R
rich815
Guest
BigSteveG said:
Sure, and here's a RIDICULOUSLY expensive one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Rollei-Bay-III-UV-filter-Mint-in-the-Box-Rolleiflex2-8_W0QQitemZ270149959913
With patience you can find one for under $50.
I have a load of Bay III filters (UV, Red, Orange, Green...) but honestly hardly use them even though I should since I shoot almost 99% B&W.
But a hood is most important.
KoNickon
Nick Merritt
Rich -- my mistake; my 2.8E is model 1 which does not have the removable hood. Thanks for correcting.
Krikor Marelian (krimarphoto.com) in NJ is very good, and turns things around quickly.
Krikor Marelian (krimarphoto.com) in NJ is very good, and turns things around quickly.
LOOP
maraboutflash
Hood is very important
Hood is very important
I have a rolleiflex 75 mm 3.5 xenotar lens and so I hope to find a hood very soon. What is a normal price to pay ?? Thanks for help.:angel:
Hood is very important
I have a rolleiflex 75 mm 3.5 xenotar lens and so I hope to find a hood very soon. What is a normal price to pay ?? Thanks for help.:angel:
plummerl
Well-known
I will second the recommendation for Harry, he did a very nice CLA on my 2.8c. For one of the largest selection of Rolleiflex accessories I have seen, check out Manfred Schmidt:
http://www.manfredschmidt.com/rolleiaccess.html.
He has a large collection of Bay III filters for $40-70.
http://www.manfredschmidt.com/rolleiaccess.html.
He has a large collection of Bay III filters for $40-70.
spyder2000
Dim Bulb
Welcome to the clan. These are great cameras!
J J Kapsberger
Well-known
Loop,
Yours requires a Bay II hood. Genuine F&H metal hoods: USD 100 to 150 on eBay. I have a rubber Rollei hood. It set me back USD 60. I think the metal hoods give better coverage. Alternatively, you can get a Bay II to 49mm or 52mm adapter and use non-F&H accessories.
http://www.camera-depot.com/TLR.htm
Yours requires a Bay II hood. Genuine F&H metal hoods: USD 100 to 150 on eBay. I have a rubber Rollei hood. It set me back USD 60. I think the metal hoods give better coverage. Alternatively, you can get a Bay II to 49mm or 52mm adapter and use non-F&H accessories.
http://www.camera-depot.com/TLR.htm
R
rich815
Guest
LOOP said:
I got a rubber Bay II hood for my 3.5E3 Xenotar for about $30 on eBay. For my two 2.8 Rolleiflexes (Bay III) I found a beat-up metal hood at a photo swap meet for $25 and my 2.8C Xenotar came with an almost mint metal hood when I bought it. I see those for something between $50-100+.
FrankS
Registered User
Bayonette I and III accessories like hoods and filters are the easiest and cheapest to get. Bayonette II accesories are scarcer (fewer of those cameras made) and therefore more expensive.
BigSteveG
Well-known
Didn't realize we had a TLR forum here....the motto should be: "RFF. Why go anywhere else?"
BigSteveG
Well-known
I'm just itching for that 2.8 now....I'll have Harry give it once over and figure out if it's worth keeping. I hope Velvia 50 will be available in 120.
