Releathering a II: Sin or Salvation?

[Sanders McNew]

Okay, group, here's my dilemma.

I have this delicious black Leica II that's
very nicely brassed, that I am using as a
shooter. (I don't know about you, I know
it's not pristine, but I love the look of the
brass coming up underneath the worn black
paint.) The leather is original, but is cracked
and coming loose.

My first impulse was to releather the
camera. But now I'm not sure. There is
dignity in the old covering, integrity in
the original.

Thoughts?

 

[ferider]

1) like he said
2) ask your wife 🙂

 

[v3cron]

hey sanders! fancy meeting you here!

 

[Sanders McNew]

Follow-up Question:

I see cameraleather.com
has a bewildering array of
black leather coverings.
Levant Black. Pebbled Black.
Kid Grain Black. Lizard Black!
Which (if any) to use on a II?

Sanders

 

[Sanders McNew]

Christopher! I am a Newbie here.
As stated in my two earlier threads. 🙂

 

[v3cron]

Follow-up Question:

I see cameraleather.com
has a bewildering array of
black leather coverings.
Which (if any) to use on a II?

Sanders

red snake!!!!

 

[ferider]

I like "Black Lizard" (on M2 and M6 now). My new M3 gets B+W Cobra 😱

I went back and forth on Griptac, that must be the most usable and similar
to shark skin one ...

Roland.

 

[v3cron]

well if going wild....but if you wish it to remain classic and not showy, then CL's black levant leather is the ONLY way. Ok, perhaps it is not THE only way, but it is a damn good way 😀

i use it on all my L body recovering...highly recommend it.

how difficult is the releathering?

 

[laptoprob]

Many others here as well as myself have used the perfect service of Aki Asahi. All kinds of finishes and colours for only $19!
Doing it yourself is really easy.

 

[nrb]

Pretty simple. I've done it myself on 2 Contaxes using Aki-Asahi kits.

 

[Sanders McNew]

if you wish it to remain classic and not showy, then CL's black levant leather is the ONLY way.

Okay, I thought it might look nice too.
But here's the rub: I am recovering a
black II. The Levant looks from the
pictures to be a matte surface, and more
greyblack than pianokey black. It seems
to me to be a tougher match, to put a
black leather on a black camera -- much
harder than a chrome body, on which
any black will look good.

Hmmmm ... maybe lizard black, after all ....

Has anyone recovered a black II or III?
If so, it would be good to see photos of
the recovered camera, if you're willing
to share.

Sanders

 

[TheHub]

I did Black Paradise Snake on my IIIf and it looks really nice

http://rangefinderforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=617953&postcount=607

 

[Sanders McNew]

Might I say, Alex, (not meaning to flatter)
(and not meaning to confine my remarks to
you) that I am very happy to have occasion
to join this online community, as it seems
populated by folks such as yourself, who
write in complete sentences and indulge
abstract reasoning along with good will whilst
dispensing very helpful advice. 🙂

Sanders

 

[Sanders McNew]

Sanders, the levant black is subtle and less stand-out-ish like a matte finish; a good analogy. But that fact would make the worn, brassing edges and top plate of your II stand out beautifully. I don't think getting the skin to stand-out with a more polished looking skin would work in harmony with the old, loved and useful look of the brassed II. The skin would be looking like an add-on. My 2 cents cdn. 🙂

Thomas, that sounds right to me. I'm not really comfortable replacing the leather at all -- somehow it seems a betrayal of the camera's past. A matter of being true to the tool, if that makes any sense. So, if I do replace it, I would prefer to find a covering that does not draw attention to itself. Sanders.

 

[ZeissFan]

I would approach this from two views:

1) Does the camera have historical significance in a way that the camera is a collectible possession more than it is a photographic tool?

2) Does the camera have greater value as a photographic tool?

If No. 1 is true, then I would leave it alone.

If No. 2 is true, then I would re-cover it.

 

[Bill58]

From a using point of view, you can't beat the Griptac. It's really tough and super "grippy."

 

[john neal]

Sanders,

I have exactly the same dilemma. I have a II from the first year of production (1932, so of some interest to collectors), that I use regularly. Unfortunately, at some time in the past, it was converted to flash - very badly as it happens, as the flash socket was mounted on the front, just below where the slow-speed dial would be if it were a III. The flash socket leaked light and every frame on a film had a white stripe somewhere across it (depended on how long it stood between frames being exposed, how quickly you wound on, etc).

The only solution was to remove the socket and blank off the hole. So, now I have a nicely brassed II with an ugly (to me) repair that stands out like the b*lls on a bulldog. Apart from that, the vulcanite is really quite good (unlike my Standard, where it is about to fall of in large lumps). On the up-side, the problem with the light leak has meant that the body was probably little used between being converted and it coming to me, so mechanically it is very good.

Given that the camera is intended for use, not just to be put in a glass case and have sugar thrown at it, I'm also considering recovering. I have done two III bodies with the Aki Asahi product which is very good, but a different look & feel to the original finish. Applying the new cover is very easy - the difficult bit is in ensuring you get all the old stuff off and have a clean, smooth, surface to work with.

I have no experience of Camera Leather, some folks have said they can be slow in shipping, but it is worth the wait. The only option that even gets close to the original seems to be to send it off to CRR in Luton, who can apply a modern vulcanite in the same way that Leitz did all those years ago. The problem with that is that it is almost £100 ($200) and Peter is always busy, so I would be unlikely to get it done this side of Christmas.

Someone mentioned the collector / user consideration and I think this is the way to decide. I will probably go for a Camera Leather genuine leather cover (also for my Standard) and see how that looks and performs. If I'm not happy with the results, I can always fall back on re-vulcanising by CRR sometime next year. Either way will allow me to apply a repair to the body where the flash socket was, and hide it under a new finish 🙂

Don't know if that helps, but it helped me (like loosening a pair of tight shoes - ahhhh!) Sorry, just realised how long this post turned out - oops!
[edited a bunch of times due to my dyslexic keyboard]