Valerius
Member
Carlos Cruz
Established
Hey,
those look already good, you could try to make the curve less steep in highlights to give more details in the sky.( you could use simple technique that will let you hold more information in both shadows and lights, you scan the negative twice; once you aim your scan for highlights then you scan for midtones and shadows and join them in PS.
those look already good, you could try to make the curve less steep in highlights to give more details in the sky.( you could use simple technique that will let you hold more information in both shadows and lights, you scan the negative twice; once you aim your scan for highlights then you scan for midtones and shadows and join them in PS.
mrtoml
Mancunian
Ronald M
Veteran
If your skies are blowing out, develope the film less. Film that prints well with #2 paper on a condenser or #3 on a diffusion scans well.
If you don`t have a darkroom, fine a full tonal range subject and experiment until it scans without manipulation. Just as in a darkroom, it is easier to gain contrast than loose it so develope moderately.
If you don`t have a darkroom, fine a full tonal range subject and experiment until it scans without manipulation. Just as in a darkroom, it is easier to gain contrast than loose it so develope moderately.
robertdfeinman
Robert Feinman
I have a bunch of tips about scanning film on my web site. Perhaps some of them will be of use to you.
Just follow the tips link on the home page. The biggest thing is to use good scanning software. Many of the choices that come with scanners are designed for ease of use, rather than optimum quality. I like Vuescan from Hamrick.com, but there are others.
If you have an expert or manual mode in the software then try that and set it so that you don't clip either the shadows or highlights.
If you have specific questions, I'll be happy to try and answer them.
Just follow the tips link on the home page. The biggest thing is to use good scanning software. Many of the choices that come with scanners are designed for ease of use, rather than optimum quality. I like Vuescan from Hamrick.com, but there are others.
If you have an expert or manual mode in the software then try that and set it so that you don't clip either the shadows or highlights.
If you have specific questions, I'll be happy to try and answer them.
einolu
Well-known
scanning is a religion. for scanning bw, a starting point would be to scan as a positive and then invert in photoshop and adjust the curves there. this can help control the highlights.
Valerius
Member
Many thanks for your suggestions. I'll be back after more practicing.
Regards,
Per
Regards,
Per
Tuolumne
Veteran
robertdfeinman said:I have a bunch of tips about scanning film on my web site. Perhaps some of them will be of use to you.
Just follow the tips link on the home page. The biggest thing is to use good scanning software. Many of the choices that come with scanners are designed for ease of use, rather than optimum quality. I like Vuescan from Hamrick.com, but there are others.
If you have an expert or manual mode in the software then try that and set it so that you don't clip either the shadows or highlights.
If you have specific questions, I'll be happy to try and answer them.
Robert,
I enjoyed your panoramas very much and aspire to do some like that myself. Did you ever try straightening the verticals in the "The Gates" photos with software like DxOptics? I notice the same distortions of parallels in my panoramics and wonder how hard it is to fix, or should one even try?
/T
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