120 T-max 100

[venchka]

I have 15 rolls of this film, exp. 2009. I have never used it.

Should I:

A. Use it? Develop in what? How long?

B. Sell/trade for 120 Tri-X 400 which I have used and like in D-76 1:1?

Thanks!

 

[juhor]

I think that you should try using it. It's a t-emulsion that has a different grain, I think. So the results could be interesting. And Tri-x isn't the grainiest film around so you could make very, very huge prints with it. I shot some of my best medium format shots with Ilford FP4+ and they enlarge very nice. I got some Ilford paper that's 50 x 60cm and I'm eager to try it. But I'm still wondering that how should I do it. I use our schools enlarger wich is a Durst and can do negs up to 6x7 but I think that the paper is too big for the table and everything. And how do I develop it? Im troubled.. 🙂

- Juho

 

[charjohncarter]

I like Tmax100, it scans better than most films. It has no grain, and I shoot it a box speed. Something not usual for me. I have only used it in 35mm. It has increased sensitivity to green: grass is a Little lighter. T grain's smoothness makes it have a 'soft look' to some, but I like that. Others say the tones are too different from Trix. I shoot them both (my main films) and like them both. I develop in HC-110h, 13 minutes, 30 seconds agitation then 5 inversions every minute, 68 degrees. Here is what I would say are typical examples:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/carter3john/1195478135/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/carter3john/1196265950/in/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/carter3john/997939582/in/set-72157600967872784/

I'll throw this fun one in too:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/carter3john/1139414076/in/set-72157600967872784/

 

[Rhoyle]

Why wouldn't you use it? Shoot it up at box speed and develop it in TMaxx developer per instructions. Should put you right in the middle where you'd have plenty of latitute to do whatever while printing or scanning. No grain.

BH

 

[clarence]

You could develop it in Rodinal for acutance.

Clarence

 

[venchka]

Thanks everyone. I might as well use it. It was cheap!

My current film inventory includes Delta 100, Tmax 100 & HP5+. I would like one developer for all 3.

I have D-76. A bottle of Rodinal won't be far behind. I may try Xtol simply because my temperatures are high.

What is TMaxx developer like? How well does it work on conventional emulsions like HP%+ or Tri-X? How well does it keep after opening? What dilution ratios do you use? I saw some in a shop today so getting it is no problem.

 

[venchka]

ALERT: When in doubt, read the instructions!

ALERT: When in doubt, read the instructions!

DUH! 😱

Upon closer examination, I discovered that my T-Max 100 is the new version, Kodak designation 100TMX. The development times have changed. The Massive Development Chart doesn't differentiate. BEWARE! 😎

YMMV

 

[charjohncarter]

Here is a good start, but it is a couple years old. So maybe the 100Tmax is newer than that.

http://www.chrisjohnsonphotographer.com/charts.shtml#anchor30675

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

The new version of Tmax 100 is A LOT GRAINIER than the old. I hadn't used any since before it was changed, and recently used several rolls of the new stuff. Dissapointed.

 

[venchka]

darn!

darn!

The new version of Tmax 100 is A LOT GRAINIER than the old. I hadn't used any since before it was changed, and recently used several rolls of the new stuff. Dissapointed.

Why, oh why, can't Kodak leave well enough alone? Oh well, in 120 (6x7) it can't be TOO grainy. 120 Tri-X (old) in D-76 1:1 never showed grain in 8x10s from 6x7 negatives.

 

[d_ross]

I use TMax100 all the time, it's great film! it also has a characteristic curve that suits scanning as previously mentioned here.

I proces it in T Max developer diluted 1-9 at 24 deg for 12 minutes with the usual first minute constant agination then two inversions of the tank every 30 secs, be carefull not to overagitate tmax and fix for a long time.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Why, oh why, can't Kodak leave well enough alone? Oh well, in 120 (6x7) it can't be TOO grainy. 120 Tri-X (old) in D-76 1:1 never showed grain in 8x10s from 6x7 negatives.

I shoot it in 645, and occassionally in 35mm. In 35mm the quality loss is very, very noticeable. In 645 its still ok, but not near as nice as before. 11x14's used to be grainless from 645, now it can be seen, although its not intrusive. The 400 speed stuff is worse than it used to be, as bad as tri-x. I actually bought some Tri-X to try but haven't used it yet.

 

[charjohncarter]

Christopher, what do you use for fine grain 35mm film?

 

[d_ross]

Tmax dev is really good, especially with tmax films for which it was developed. But I also process Tri-X in it with nice results, however as with everyone what suits my taste may not suit yours.
But with T-Max films I cant imagine using any other developer. The down side though if there is one, is the costs, with it being one shot and with stronger dilutions giving the best results. But that said if quality is what your after I highly recommend it.

 

[d_ross]

Also, with the new T-max 100 films I do exactly the same as with the old film with dilution etc, but give it 1 minute more developement time. As far as I'm aware the shelf life of T-Max developer concentrate after opening is pretty good, Ive used some that has been open for over 3 months with no apparent change.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Christopher, what do you use for fine grain 35mm film?

Ilford Pan-F, but it's not much better than the new Tmax 100. The old stuff was the finest grained black and white film I have used, aside from spcialty stuff like Tech Pan.