8877molly
Newbie
I am interested in a leica 90mm f2---I am looking at a non asph lens---can anyone give me feedback on whether this lens ( cheaper ) is a better lens than the newer Leica 90mm f2 asph (more expensive)?
Very true. I like my pre-asph 90mm Summicron (version III) because it has that great balance between "soft" and "sharp". Very nice dissolve. When something's in focus, it's sharp, so the contrast between in-focus and out-of-focus is marked.cmogi10 said:better in what way?
The current APO ASPH is incredibly sharp, it can go either way, some people don't like that sharpness for portrait work some do.
awilder said:I've owned both. The last non- APO ASPH is of similar sharpness and from f/2.8 and smaller apertures it's a virtual coin toss. Wide open the APO ASPH has a small edge in color saturatrion and sharpness but practically speaking it's not worth a price difference if greater than $500 or $600. Exact focusing accuracy is critical to get the most out of either lens.
Gabriel M.A. said:Very true. I like my pre-asph 90mm Summicron (version III) because it has that great balance between "soft" and "sharp". Very nice dissolve. When something's in focus, it's sharp, so the contrast between in-focus and out-of-focus is marked.
The *only* thing I don't like about it is that it flares (actually, veiling flare) when a strong source of light hits it, wide open. But this affects contrast mainly, so you can adjust your shot with processing.
It's also cheaper than the APO version. A lot of version II (i.e. "made in Canada") 90mm Summicrons are below $400. The version III is lighter and more compact, but twice as much.
NB23 said:You're confusing me with the versions I, II and III and so on. What's Version 2 and what's version 3? Can post pics of each lens?
NB23 said:I thought it was a soft lens but after many tripod tests I realized the problem is in street shooting where critical focus is hard to pin.
I think it varies for different people. I don't have an issue getting critical focus with the 90mm Summicron with my M8 (*all* hand-held, and shot at f/2):Richard Marks said:This is an important point. The effective focal length is 120mm and in addition to movement, focusing with the small screen area of theM8 finder also becomes a factor. If I was starting from scratch and getting a lens just for M8 (and not also for a film M) I think I would go for the 75 f2 'cron.
Believe it or not, that is exactly how I wanted it framed. People always expect pictures to have the face in them. They also expect everything to be "sharp". 😉Richard Marks said:Hi Gabriel
Yes its OK to focus a 90 on an M8 although you appear to have a framing problem with the second example 🙂
Thanks. And yes, the 90mm Summicron requires some time, which is why I "pre-focus" (or as some would incorrectly think of it as "zone-focus"; I don't do zone-focus with the 90mm focal length: I set it close to where I think the subject is, then "precise" focusing takes less time when you are taking the shot).NB23 said:Gab, great first pic!
I agree the Cron is easy to focus. But that's when you have time to do so. THe nature of the 90mm lens (being a telephoto) is that usually, if there's no time to focus, even with a f stop of f5.6 or f8, one is likely to be out of the focus zone or lose on speed and still get blurred results.
When I'm street shooting, the 90mm requires more attention, as opposed to shooting a 50mm lens.