SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
I have some information from the digitaltruth and an Agfa chart about developing APX in D-76 and T-Max developer, but only if it's rated at ISO 400. How can I figure out pushing it one stop? Do I extend the developing time, say, 15 % longer? Is there an algorithm to do this? Do I have to go by trial and error? Does someone know? Has somebody done it? I know that Fuji Neopan ISO 400 is extremely pushable, but I also hear that Agfa can handle it. Since I have a nice amount of this film, I'd like to know.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
nzeeman
Well-known
i read that for 1 push you take 1.5x longer time for 2 stop push 1.5x1.5=2.25x longer time...
but i always had to make it a bit longer
almost double for 1 stop push (but im using some cheap universal developer so i dont know if my experience can be useful)
but i always had to make it a bit longer
almost double for 1 stop push (but im using some cheap universal developer so i dont know if my experience can be useful)
dcsang
Canadian & Not A Dentist
I wonder..
how does APX (or Silvertone for that matter) 400 look at 1600?
I know it's not really rated at ISO 400 - I've heard it's more like ISO 200.
Dave
how does APX (or Silvertone for that matter) 400 look at 1600?
I know it's not really rated at ISO 400 - I've heard it's more like ISO 200.
Dave
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Hmmm... that is to say that if I want to push this film one stop in T-Max (7 mins at 20 F in T-max), I should develop for 10.5 minutes. And if I want to do it at ISO 1600 it should be at 7 X 1.5=10.5 X 1.5= 15.75 minutes?
I can live with doing it at ISO 800. At ISO 1600... I'm better off using Neopan 1600.
Thanks a lot. Let's see if there's a correction to this note of mine.
I can live with doing it at ISO 800. At ISO 1600... I'm better off using Neopan 1600.
Thanks a lot. Let's see if there's a correction to this note of mine.
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Bump, so that the citizens in Europe pitch in.
telenous
Well-known
I used some APX 400 over the summer. I didn't have much luck past ISO 320; I read somewhere that Prescysol EF does a nice job in hiding the huge grain when pushing, so I tried it at ISO 800 (I gave it 50% more developing time, less agitation). Here's the result:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/telenous/1002420182/
At ISO 200 APX looks lush IMO:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/telenous/1308686650/
BTW I suspect TMax might do the trick but I 've never tried it. The Massive Development Chart gives 15', 1+4 for ISO 1600. (Cf. http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/telenous/1002420182/
At ISO 200 APX looks lush IMO:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/telenous/1308686650/
BTW I suspect TMax might do the trick but I 've never tried it. The Massive Development Chart gives 15', 1+4 for ISO 1600. (Cf. http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html)
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SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Thanks a lot, Alkis! I'll check the massive development chart again...
thafred
silver addict
Hi
since winter kicked in I´m shooting APX 400 at 1600 all the time. figrued out that developing in DDX 1+4 warmed up to 30°C for 17min does the trick. the contrast is pretty high with that development but I get good usable images from this method and the grain is quite good imho.
naturaly the shadows suffer a bit but that´s expected from a +2 push.
here are all the images on APX 400 at 1600ASA with ddx:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/57493810@N00/tags/ddx30°c17min/
since winter kicked in I´m shooting APX 400 at 1600 all the time. figrued out that developing in DDX 1+4 warmed up to 30°C for 17min does the trick. the contrast is pretty high with that development but I get good usable images from this method and the grain is quite good imho.
naturaly the shadows suffer a bit but that´s expected from a +2 push.



here are all the images on APX 400 at 1600ASA with ddx:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/57493810@N00/tags/ddx30°c17min/
thafred
silver addict
Alkis: with standard development I found too that APX 400 is at best a 320 film..that was the reason to experiment with high temp developing to make the developer more active
your examples really look very good!! looking forward shooting this film in good light again
btw. do you guys know that theres lot´s of APX 400 rebadged as Rollei Retro 400 and cheaper as APX 400 at www.macodirect.de. (pack of 30 for 52€!) no connection just thought it´s worth a notice
your examples really look very good!! looking forward shooting this film in good light again
btw. do you guys know that theres lot´s of APX 400 rebadged as Rollei Retro 400 and cheaper as APX 400 at www.macodirect.de. (pack of 30 for 52€!) no connection just thought it´s worth a notice
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Maxapple88
Established
I'll be shooting a party in a ballroom soon and don't know whether I'll be fine pushing T-Max 400 to 1600 or getting 1600 or maybe even 3200 film right away. Is T-Max even pushable? If yes, how well?
Burlap Jacket
Established
Here is an example of Silvertone 400 @ 1600 (same stuff as APX400). Processed by a lab that uses XTOL.

SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
I'll be using either D-76 or T-Max with a few rolls of the stuff (15 minutes at 20º C/68º F). For some reason I'm unable to detect grain in this film (one advantage of NOT doing wet prints, I presume), so I really like it.
BTW, Freestyle sells it rebadged as Arista II. I learned this when I started another thread about this film. In fact, I have over 40 rolls of it, between some I purchased last year, then 20 more and 25 Arista II.
If I manage to get good results with the current 20-exposure roll I loaded last night, I'll post them here.
Thanks for the replies, advice and images!
BTW, Freestyle sells it rebadged as Arista II. I learned this when I started another thread about this film. In fact, I have over 40 rolls of it, between some I purchased last year, then 20 more and 25 Arista II.
If I manage to get good results with the current 20-exposure roll I loaded last night, I'll post them here.
Thanks for the replies, advice and images!
dcsang
Canadian & Not A Dentist
So, I'm guessing, APX400 (or Silvertone) @ 1600 in Rodinal is a no no?
Just curious because we've seen Mercifuls (and others) results when Tri-x is pushed to ridiculous ISOs like 25600.
Cheers
Dave
Just curious because we've seen Mercifuls (and others) results when Tri-x is pushed to ridiculous ISOs like 25600.
Cheers
Dave
thafred
silver addict
Hey Max! didn´t know you are here too
I´d be also interested in T-Max pushing. a friend gave me some rolls T-Max 400 (old) and I was wondering what to do with them, not to hijack the thread but does anyone have a good push formula?
burlap jacket, APX in Xtol looks great! thanks for the example!
dcsang, are there other results? would be very interested, thought merciful was the only one getting this extreme iso´s?
burlap jacket, APX in Xtol looks great! thanks for the example!
dcsang, are there other results? would be very interested, thought merciful was the only one getting this extreme iso´s?
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dcsang
Canadian & Not A Dentist
Well.. I've done tests on TriX up to 12800 and the negs are thin.. you can barely make out what's on them... BUT.. they scan extremely well.
I'd be willing to try APX400 @1600 but I don't know what type of results I'm going to get with Rodinal...
Dave
I'd be willing to try APX400 @1600 but I don't know what type of results I'm going to get with Rodinal...
Dave
Burlap Jacket
Established
thafred said:I´d be also interested in T-Max pushing. a friend gave me some rolls T-Max 400 (old) and I was wondering what to do with them, not to hijack the thread but does anyone have a good push formula?
burlap jacket, APX in Xtol looks great! thanks for the example!
No prob.
Here's a shot of T-Max 400 @ 1600 (likely Xtol again)

SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Wouldn't it be easier to shoot Fuji Neopan 1600 at 3200? Or Ilford 3200 at 6400? Regardless of the developer, these are films formulated for push processing, so they can probably handle it better.
I guess.
BTW, I got some Ilford Rapid Fixer in liquid form today. It mixes just like T-Max at 1:4, so I'm kind of excited to try.
I guess.
BTW, I got some Ilford Rapid Fixer in liquid form today. It mixes just like T-Max at 1:4, so I'm kind of excited to try.
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