do different films have different fix times?

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meeker

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Hi,

I have recently developed a few rolls of neopan, and noticed that using a short fix time (~5 minutes, as suggested by the Illford pdf), the negs were very purple. I put them back in the fixer. I now leave neopan in the fixer for at least 10 minutes. OTOH, the Arista EDU film doesn't seen to have a trace of purple after the shorter time in the fixer. Can someone tell me why there's this difference - what's a safe value to use for all films (can you over-fix?). I using Kodak's powdered fixer, it that is relevant.

cheers,
 
Unfortunately I don't know the reasons, or even whether its important to get the last bit of color out of the film on "stubborn" emulsions.
I've had simillar results with some Kodak films, it seems you have to fix for a LONG time to finish the job.
Some have mentioned using a pre soak to get an antihalation chemical out of the film, as that is what is taking so long to remove and actually doesn't need fixer, just water and time, to remove.
Any more clarification anyone?
As for overfixing, it is possible. From what I've read, fixer will eventually start removing metallic silver. Can't say I've demonstrated it though.
 
In my highschool photo class we always put the developed film into a luke warm bubble bath for 15-20 minutes after a 5min fix.

The bubble bath (just aerated column of water in which the film developing reels fit) helped clear the last bit of color from the negs.
 
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I usually fix for as long as I develop. When using very fresh fixer, I do a strip test: clip a piece of the film, put it in the fixer and time how long it takes for the fixer to clear the film bit completely. According to what I've read, if it takes 1 minute to clear, you fix for two.

I still fix for as long as I develop. Or just a little less... except when it's Kodak, because then, no amount of fixing seems enough. :eek:
 
5 min. in Ilford rapid fix
1 min. tap water rinse
4 min hypo solution
1 min tap water

it''ll clear even the toughest purple...Tri-X

Todd
 
Yes, different films need different fixing times. Rule is, for traditional films fix twice the time it takes to clear the film, for "modern" films (TMAX, ACROS, Ilford Delta) three times.

The color should go away with washing. After using the washing recommended by Ilford, I let the film soak 10min in water. This reduces the color cast significantly.
 
They used to say that you need to fix until the film base falls clear, but 10 mins seems a bit too long - you could be losing shadow detail.

Have you tried a long, moving water, wash after a 5 min fix? This worked for me with Fomapan, which is quite green until you get it to clear.
 
I've not souped enough Neopan 400 to know for sure, but i can say that Neopan SS takes a bit longer, even in TF-4 rapid fix.. sorry that's not of much use in your case.

--c--
 
I'll second Todd's recommendation for Hypo Clearing agent - it works great, especially on 4x5 sheet film, which is when I first started using it.

If you have space to set up a bubble bath they work wonders, and there is no chance of over fixing and loss of shadoiw detail.
 
Fix until the image is clear, rinse for about 10 minutes and then check for any purple haze (on film)...Fill the developing tank with water and let it sit for another 5 minutes...dump water (should have purplish color) do this until the water comes out clear...photo flo and hang to dry...
 
yes. You could use a small piece cut off the leader when you put it on the reels. I just put it in the fixer and check it every minute until it's clear. Then double that time for fixing the developed roll. Usually works out to less than four minutes. I fix for five if I'm being lazy and using fresh fixer.
 
Do you dilute fixer at all or use it stock ? I use Ilford Rapid Fixer, now i figure out why my negs are purple and the pics are way too dark
 
If you buy fix in liquid form there is usually one dilution for film and one for prints...after about 6-8 minutes in the fix you can open the developing tank to inspect the progress...also don't forget to agitate (spin) the film while fixing it...
If you happen to open the tank too early you may see that the film has a milky white look to it...fix it until this is gone...the film may still appear purple...fixing it longer isn't the answer...rinse and then let the film sit in water for a bit and while dumping the water you will see a purple coloring in it...do this until the water comes out clear...
I've never used a Hypo Wash so I don't know if it will aid in clearing this purple haze you're seeing...anyone...???
I've only had this problem with Tmax and Neopan...
 
Sam,

It sounds like you have the same experience as I do with neopan. With Arista EDU (fomopan) I'm not seeing the purple negs. I suppose I wanted some confirmation that it's OK to fix longer for neopan than fomopan (I've only just started doing my own developing). Still, I don't want to loose any shadow detail, so I'll look into using a hypo clearing agent.

cheers,
 
The 'new technology films' need longer fixing, theory is that the flatter grains are more tightly stuck together, letting fixer work it's magic less quickly. I use rapd fixer, 3 minutes for 'regular', 4 minutes for 'new' films.
 
I do four minutes with DDX and then the same with Rapid Fixer. I do use Hustler Rapid Bath Hypo Clearing agent following the fix and don't have purple issues. :D
 
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