RFOBD
Established
Hello all,
I'm interested in getting a Yashica Electro GSN as my first rangefinder as it seems like an inexpensive, high quality way to get into rangefinder photography.
Besides eBay, does anyone know of a good place to find one? I would like to avoid eBay as it's always a risk, especially since all the Yashica Electro listings I see claim that they have no way of testing the camera.
Thank you for any help or suggestions that you can provide.
I'm interested in getting a Yashica Electro GSN as my first rangefinder as it seems like an inexpensive, high quality way to get into rangefinder photography.
Besides eBay, does anyone know of a good place to find one? I would like to avoid eBay as it's always a risk, especially since all the Yashica Electro listings I see claim that they have no way of testing the camera.
Thank you for any help or suggestions that you can provide.
M. Valdemar
Well-known
I see them practically in every flea market or thrift store I visit. You can buy as many as you want for $5 or $10.
Anyway, what's the big risk about getting one on eBay? What can you lose? I don't doubt the average seller doesn't test them. They don't want to play with batteries, etc. Take a big chance.
Anyway, what's the big risk about getting one on eBay? What can you lose? I don't doubt the average seller doesn't test them. They don't want to play with batteries, etc. Take a big chance.
bronney
Established
if you're wearly of bidding cams and stuff, bring a CR123A and a LR44 cell to your nearest pawn shop or goodwill and look for them.
Check the optics first, the lens from front, is it good and clear, no scratch.
2. open the back of the cam (if there's a tab on bottom left of camera, pull), if not, pull up the film rewind. Is the back clean? Is it super moldy?
3. keep it open, turn aperture dial to 1.7, point cam to a light, cock shutter and fire. Do you see an image projected?
4. repeat 3 a few more times, does the timing seem consistent (should be 1/500s without a battery).
5. look inside the VF, is it hazy, can you focus, trying focusing a light, then some brown things.
6. stick up your finger while looking into VF, block the focus patch area with your finger in front of the VF, is the yellow AUX patch clear? is it broken? shaved?
7. if you wear glasses, peek into VF without glasses, is the diamond nice?
more. Stick in your CR123A battery + LR44, positive pointing OUT. Close lid.
8. press battery check, is there a light?
9. while the back's opened, look at lens. Turn aperture ring to 1.7, turn shutter ring to B. cock fire and hold. any defects in the optics? Does it open wide?
10. while holding the B, turn aperture ring, do the blades snaps nice? Any oil, scratches?
11. turn shutter ring to flash. cock and fire, repeat, does it sound consistent (1/30s).
12. turn ring back to AUTO.
13. turn A ring to 16, iso to 100, cock and fire. Do you hear a little whiz before the shutter closes?
14. adjust iso ring, does the shutter compensate timings?
15. keep iso at constant, adjust A ring, does shutter compensate? Are they consistent?
16. forget about the light seal foam, you can fix that DIY or anywhere, cheap.
17. close camera back, does the counter reset to S?
18. is the filter ring dented? bring your own 55mm UV to check.
19. everyone knows, does it clunk when you cock, trivial, first thing you check anyway.
When I was buying mine I didn't know anything. But I bought from a good source and it costed me $110. worths every penny. If any of the conditions above doesn't meet, skip it, go find another one. the repair usually out-cost the purchase. Get a good one to start with man and it'll reward you with some nice bokehs
Check the optics first, the lens from front, is it good and clear, no scratch.
2. open the back of the cam (if there's a tab on bottom left of camera, pull), if not, pull up the film rewind. Is the back clean? Is it super moldy?
3. keep it open, turn aperture dial to 1.7, point cam to a light, cock shutter and fire. Do you see an image projected?
4. repeat 3 a few more times, does the timing seem consistent (should be 1/500s without a battery).
5. look inside the VF, is it hazy, can you focus, trying focusing a light, then some brown things.
6. stick up your finger while looking into VF, block the focus patch area with your finger in front of the VF, is the yellow AUX patch clear? is it broken? shaved?
7. if you wear glasses, peek into VF without glasses, is the diamond nice?
more. Stick in your CR123A battery + LR44, positive pointing OUT. Close lid.
8. press battery check, is there a light?
9. while the back's opened, look at lens. Turn aperture ring to 1.7, turn shutter ring to B. cock fire and hold. any defects in the optics? Does it open wide?
10. while holding the B, turn aperture ring, do the blades snaps nice? Any oil, scratches?
11. turn shutter ring to flash. cock and fire, repeat, does it sound consistent (1/30s).
12. turn ring back to AUTO.
13. turn A ring to 16, iso to 100, cock and fire. Do you hear a little whiz before the shutter closes?
14. adjust iso ring, does the shutter compensate timings?
15. keep iso at constant, adjust A ring, does shutter compensate? Are they consistent?
16. forget about the light seal foam, you can fix that DIY or anywhere, cheap.
17. close camera back, does the counter reset to S?
18. is the filter ring dented? bring your own 55mm UV to check.
19. everyone knows, does it clunk when you cock, trivial, first thing you check anyway.
When I was buying mine I didn't know anything. But I bought from a good source and it costed me $110. worths every penny. If any of the conditions above doesn't meet, skip it, go find another one. the repair usually out-cost the purchase. Get a good one to start with man and it'll reward you with some nice bokehs
RFOBD
Established
Thank you both, especially bronney for the details of what to look for. I'll try to find a flea market to look around.
The big risk is wasting $40+.
M. Valdemar said:Anyway, what's the big risk about getting one on eBay? What can you lose? I don't doubt the average seller doesn't test them. They don't want to play with batteries, etc. Take a big chance.
The big risk is wasting $40+.
pesphoto
Veteran
You shouldnt really pay more than $45-$50 for a really good one.
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
Contact Roger (owlsplace) here in the forum. Ask him if he still sell those, I got one from him, CLA'd.
bronney
Established
you're welcome mate. Just remember travelling is also money. If you have a good source, pay a bit more and just shoot the cam instead of running around wasting gas or bus 
Cardiff Steve
Newbie
I've just bought 1 gs and 1 gsn from Ebay - together with lens kit - total cost $110. Both work perfectly although the gs has a chewed battery cap. I invested $8 on battery adaptors. If you buy from sellers with good ratings you've a good chance of getting good kit. Steve - Wales.
kuzano
Veteran
Plus this tip
Plus this tip
Try to buy from sellers who do a lot (or all) cameras. They value their feedback as it relates primarily to cameras and will give you a good one or work with you. Minimum 500 transactions and at least 98.5% positive feed backs. If they have 500 trans, that means they satisfied 492 people, assuming everybody left a feedback.
Plus this tip
Cardiff Steve said:I've just bought 1 gs and 1 gsn from Ebay - together with lens kit - total cost $110. Both work perfectly although the gs has a chewed battery cap. I invested $8 on battery adaptors. If you buy from sellers with good ratings you've a good chance of getting good kit. Steve - Wales.
Try to buy from sellers who do a lot (or all) cameras. They value their feedback as it relates primarily to cameras and will give you a good one or work with you. Minimum 500 transactions and at least 98.5% positive feed backs. If they have 500 trans, that means they satisfied 492 people, assuming everybody left a feedback.
cazoo
Newbie
Hi guys, I'm new here too and I'm trying to hunt down a GSN. It's been tough to snag one on eBay as the popularity of the camera has obviously skyrocketed. I've been outbid every single time and the final auction prices end up being more than reasonable. (Still cheaper than finding a Canonet QL17).
Anway, i'll keep looking out for one.
Anway, i'll keep looking out for one.
mangamonster
Established
If any of you are trying to get your hands on one that actually works and looks great too i may be able to help.
I have one that's pretty minty and was CLA'd by owlsplace. Shoots amazing shots as I've run around 4 rolls through it. No issues. If you want, I'll part with it for $80...less than what I've paid for it
pm me if interested
I have one that's pretty minty and was CLA'd by owlsplace. Shoots amazing shots as I've run around 4 rolls through it. No issues. If you want, I'll part with it for $80...less than what I've paid for it
pm me if interested
btgc
Veteran
>Don't buy a camera that the seller makes a point of saying does not work, or he does not know if it works. This usually means it is broken.
...unless you know how to fix it. Mine Electro came exactly that way - seller wrote it lits only one light and other never comes on. That were POD issue, fun to fix and same to use. Of course, if buyer wants to deal with taking off front cover. There's nothing wrong getting proven working sample.
...unless you know how to fix it. Mine Electro came exactly that way - seller wrote it lits only one light and other never comes on. That were POD issue, fun to fix and same to use. Of course, if buyer wants to deal with taking off front cover. There's nothing wrong getting proven working sample.
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