bkrystad
Established
I’m about to start working in my new darkroom setup this year, developing Ilford HP5 film and making contact sheets and enlargements for the first time. I’m at the point where I have to choose a film developer. I’ve been studying all the threads and technical sheets I can find on these two developers, and have a pretty solid handle on HOW to use each of them. I’m just wondering WHICH to use.
I’m the kind of person who will pick one and invest my time working with just that developer to get pretty good at it, before trying another one. I don’t change variables rapidly.
I want to be casual about this (I understand that being relaxed is essential to good darkroom work). So far, I’ve been leaning toward D-76 1:1. But I’d like to make sure I’m stacking the deck in my favor. I want a developer with easy startup, that’s reasonably forgiving of novice workflow errors in the beginning, and has the potential for “wow” results with HP5 enlargements (not scanning) later on.
At this point, it sounds like the answer is “either.” As others have said about the HC-110 and D-76 debate, “Coke or Pepsi?” But in my case, the question I want to ask all of you is, if you had to start over again as a novice building your development workflow, would you want your first developer experience to be with D-76 or HC-110?
-Byron
I’m the kind of person who will pick one and invest my time working with just that developer to get pretty good at it, before trying another one. I don’t change variables rapidly.
I want to be casual about this (I understand that being relaxed is essential to good darkroom work). So far, I’ve been leaning toward D-76 1:1. But I’d like to make sure I’m stacking the deck in my favor. I want a developer with easy startup, that’s reasonably forgiving of novice workflow errors in the beginning, and has the potential for “wow” results with HP5 enlargements (not scanning) later on.
At this point, it sounds like the answer is “either.” As others have said about the HC-110 and D-76 debate, “Coke or Pepsi?” But in my case, the question I want to ask all of you is, if you had to start over again as a novice building your development workflow, would you want your first developer experience to be with D-76 or HC-110?
-Byron
cosmonot
uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝʞ
D76 is easier to mix. Start there. Use it up, then move on to other stuff. That's my suggestion.
spyder2000
Dim Bulb
Having used D-76 for something like 25 years I can say it's hard to go wrong with that choice. My only comment is on the mixing - variables in the water supply sometimes make it difficult to get fully dissolved quickly. The elevated temperature of mixing also makes it unlikely you will mix and use the same evening. That said, D-76 1:1 is virtually foolproof. I still like it.
A few years ago I moved to HC-110 and use it at dilution H made from the syrup. I find it to be just as repeatable and with a grain structure that is different, yet just as pleasant. Your tests will validate what is best for you.
A few years ago I moved to HC-110 and use it at dilution H made from the syrup. I find it to be just as repeatable and with a grain structure that is different, yet just as pleasant. Your tests will validate what is best for you.
Big Hairy Bee
barnacker
Thanks for posting this question. I am about to restart my darkroom experience. I plan to shoot TriX. I have only used Microdol as a teen and then d76 when I worked. Other developers intrigue me yet I nothng about them...
RayPA
Ignore It (It'll go away)
There's a reason why D-76 is/was the developer of choice for beginning photography classes. It's easy to mix and use, it's probably the most flexible solvent developer, and it is so popular that it is often used as a point of reference for other developers. It's a good idea to get a feel for how D76 performs.
Obviously, I suggest you start with D76.
.
Obviously, I suggest you start with D76.
.
Ororaro
Well-known
D76 all the way. I think it's the classic developer and the best (only IMO).
HC110 is more convenient but go with D76.
HC110 is more convenient but go with D76.
nikon_sam
Shooter of Film...
I voted for D-76 1:1
I have HC-110 and Rodinal but use D-76 more and have used it longer than anything else...
Find one that gives the results you like and learn it...
I have HC-110 and Rodinal but use D-76 more and have used it longer than anything else...
Find one that gives the results you like and learn it...
Brennotdan
Established
I've always looked for an excuse to use anything other than D76 1:1, and found everything I read about any film with D76 is positive...so it's the only developer I have ever used. I mix 5 gallon tanks of it at school, and I've developed HP5+, Tri-x, Delta 3200, Delta 100, Delta 400 all 35mm. I guess I really haven't used a wide range of films with it.
My countless hours of research have told me that D76 works with everything, but I'm sure you will get lots of opinions from more experienced photographers.
Also, something I heard but have never found a source for is that you can "over stir" this developer. I'm not sure if its true or not, but I've always been cautious of this.
edited to combine two posts
My countless hours of research have told me that D76 works with everything, but I'm sure you will get lots of opinions from more experienced photographers.
mixing temp is suppose to be something like 120 F, but it will desolve at around 90 F without problems if that's all your sink will go to. Obviously you have to let it cool, but I sometimes put the bottle in a sink of cool water to use it faster.spyder2000 said:My only comment is on the mixing - variables in the water supply sometimes make it difficult to get fully dissolved quickly. The elevated temperature of mixing also makes it unlikely you will mix and use the same evening.
Also, something I heard but have never found a source for is that you can "over stir" this developer. I'm not sure if its true or not, but I've always been cautious of this.
edited to combine two posts
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bcostin
Well-known
I voted for D76 1:1. The only thing easier is Diafine, and for someone looking to become practiced in time/temperature/agitation control Diafine is almost too easy, since none of those variables really matter much.
crawdiddy
qu'est-ce que c'est?
OK, D76 is the only film developer I've ever used. I read intriguing things here about HC-110 and Rodinal. I'm tempted to try them. I would be up for more pronounced grain, and I think that's one of Rodinal's characteristics.
One reason for my persistent use of D-76 is that it seems to be more readily available than any other. I've always purchased it at a retail store, and it seems to be either the only thing they have (now) and in my earlier days, it was what the guy in the store recommended.
I've have good results with it, however, and thus have never strayed.
It certainly doesn't dissolve easily, but it eventually does. If I'm mixing it up, I need to use it, and so usually put it in the freezer for a few minutes to cool it down.
I don't understand about the "overmixing" comment. (shaken, not stirred?)
One reason for my persistent use of D-76 is that it seems to be more readily available than any other. I've always purchased it at a retail store, and it seems to be either the only thing they have (now) and in my earlier days, it was what the guy in the store recommended.
I've have good results with it, however, and thus have never strayed.
It certainly doesn't dissolve easily, but it eventually does. If I'm mixing it up, I need to use it, and so usually put it in the freezer for a few minutes to cool it down.
I don't understand about the "overmixing" comment. (shaken, not stirred?)
venchka
Veteran
Way back in the Land Before Time I started with D-76 1:1. Last Saturday I developed 6 sheets of HP5+ in D-76 1:1. I'm either in a rut or I like D-76 a lot. Both probably.
I am planning to buy some Rodinal and Xtol in the near future. Rodinal because when I wasn't using D-76 Way Back When I used Rodinal. Xtol because it's new & modern and many folks swear by it. I also want to try Xtol + Rodinal. The best of the old with the best of the new.
Explore. Experiment. Enjoy! Have fun!
I am planning to buy some Rodinal and Xtol in the near future. Rodinal because when I wasn't using D-76 Way Back When I used Rodinal. Xtol because it's new & modern and many folks swear by it. I also want to try Xtol + Rodinal. The best of the old with the best of the new.
Explore. Experiment. Enjoy! Have fun!
John Bragg
Well-known
HC-110 gets my vote for consistency and at dilution H a little goes a very long way... It keeps incredibly well too !! Nothing wrong with D76 either, but I hate mixing powder and find the syringe method a dead easy way to dispense the syrup accurately..
venchka
Veteran
Air bubbles?
Air bubbles?
Over mixing might put air in the developer at first? Standing overnight should get rid of any bubbles or froth.
Air bubbles?
crawdiddy said:...
I don't understand about the "overmixing" comment. (shaken, not stirred?)
Over mixing might put air in the developer at first? Standing overnight should get rid of any bubbles or froth.
Ororaro
Well-known
I'm struck by the "D76 is easier" comments.
HC110 is definitely among the easiest developers to work with because it's liquid and the dilutions are linear with developing times: Double the dilution= double the time. Cut the dilution by xx%= add same % time... Can't beat that in the "easy" department.
HC110 is definitely among the easiest developers to work with because it's liquid and the dilutions are linear with developing times: Double the dilution= double the time. Cut the dilution by xx%= add same % time... Can't beat that in the "easy" department.
Uncle Bill
Well-known
I started developing myself with HC110 and I found myself migrating to D76 both in stock and 1+1 this year and after getting the hang of it. I prefer D76 to HC110 in terms of results.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
D 76 is not only the beginners/school choice, but most professional photo journalists use (or used it before digital!). It is compensating enough to smooth out lesser mistakes, the grainstructure is pleasing albeit not that sharp. The high Sodium Sulphite content does give a bit of a "mushy" look. If you have seen Salgado's 35mm negs taken up to 24x36 inches, you realize that D76 is fine!
I have used it for about 40+ years and even though I use other developers to test film and offset boredom, it is my prefered "soup". Most standard films can be done in it and D76 1:1 for 10 min with Tri X or 11 with HP5 always provide a printable negative if your exposures are reasonablky correct!
One thing to watch for with D76 is storage. If you mix 1 liter volume stock (2 liter at 1:1) no problem as you probably will use it up in a week or two. The gallon (3.8 liter stock) will increase its activity after a couple of weeks and excessive grain can be the result.
If you find yourself going through a lot of it, you might consider mixing it from scratch. Much cheaper and you can "buffer" it for longer time storage.
"The Film Developing Cookbook" by Steve Anchell is a great resource for these developers and variations on them. The trick is to know when to stop experimenting and settle for one basic one. I haven't reach that stage yet! Most film and paper formulas are variations on Metol.Hydroquinone soups. There are others of course, but by stocking up on basic chemicals you will also avoid that Saturday night feeling of a stack of film to do and nobody having "ready made" chemicals in stock (or are closed).
I have used it for about 40+ years and even though I use other developers to test film and offset boredom, it is my prefered "soup". Most standard films can be done in it and D76 1:1 for 10 min with Tri X or 11 with HP5 always provide a printable negative if your exposures are reasonablky correct!
One thing to watch for with D76 is storage. If you mix 1 liter volume stock (2 liter at 1:1) no problem as you probably will use it up in a week or two. The gallon (3.8 liter stock) will increase its activity after a couple of weeks and excessive grain can be the result.
If you find yourself going through a lot of it, you might consider mixing it from scratch. Much cheaper and you can "buffer" it for longer time storage.
"The Film Developing Cookbook" by Steve Anchell is a great resource for these developers and variations on them. The trick is to know when to stop experimenting and settle for one basic one. I haven't reach that stage yet! Most film and paper formulas are variations on Metol.Hydroquinone soups. There are others of course, but by stocking up on basic chemicals you will also avoid that Saturday night feeling of a stack of film to do and nobody having "ready made" chemicals in stock (or are closed).
RayPA
Ignore It (It'll go away)
NB23 said:I'm struck by the "D76 is easier" comments.
HC110 is definitely among the easiest developers to work with because it's liquid and the dilutions are linear with developing times: Double the dilution= double the time. Cut the dilution by xx%= add same % time... Can't beat that in the "easy" department.
D76 stock is liquid.
It really probably has to do with scale or familiarity, or just the concept of 1:1.
D76 1:1 for 8 oz tank = 4 oz dev+4oz water (pardon the American measurements).
That's easy. It's like cooking in the kitchen. In fact I get my measuring cylinders at the supermarket or a local popular kitchen supply store (I'm not sure where I'd go to get another syringe in a pinch). One doesn't even really need to measure in ounces to mix 1:1. I could use an un-graduated cup or container, and I've done that in a pinch.Too much? Pour it off. Too little? Find a smaller container and mix a little more.
Really how do you beat that in the easy department?
.
projectbluebird
Film Abuser
But the original package is powder. HC110 comes in liquid form straight from Kodak. One thing to note, HC110 does not contain hydroquinone (I think) which some people are allergic to, and D76 does. It also has faster development times at dilution B than D76.RayPA said:D76 stock is liquid.
My favorite film/dev combination is HP5 and HC110. If I were starting over, I'd buy the smallest amounts available and give both a try.
Ororaro
Well-known
RayPA said:D76 stock is liquid.
It really probably has to do with scale or familiarity, or just the concept of 1:1.
D76 1:1 for 8 oz tank = 4 oz dev+4oz water (pardon the American measurements).
That's easy. It's like cooking in the kitchen. In fact I get my measuring cylinders at the supermarket or a local popular kitchen supply store (I'm not sure where I'd go to get another syringe in a pinch). One doesn't even really need to measure in ounces to mix 1:1. I could use an un-graduated cup or container, and I've done that in a pinch.Too much? Pour it off. Too little? Find a smaller container and mix a little more.
Really how do you beat that in the easy department?
.
Wow! I got a lecture about D76! Incredible! And the lecture was confusing, to say the least...
HC110 is 100% linear in development times VS dilutions in practice, which makes it a champ in the easiness department. The fact that it can be used as a compensating developer as opposed to D76 also makes it Easier.
I prefer D76 for its rendition but HC110 has its place right next to it.
Brennotdan
Established
crawdiddy said:It certainly doesn't dissolve easily, but it eventually does. If I'm mixing it up, I need to use it, and so usually put it in the freezer for a few minutes to cool it down.
Like what I'm doing with my pasta salad right now!
That's probably what it was...or my professor was just messing with me who knows!venchka said:Over mixing might put air in the developer at first? Standing overnight should get rid of any bubbles or froth.
at any rate, if it's good enough for Salgado it's good enough for me
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