feenej
Well-known
What Nikon lens would be period-correct for a Nikkormat FT or FS? Where is a good place in the USA for a CLA on a Nikkormat? Thanks.
nzhang
Member
A nikkor HC 50mm f2.0 should be a good choise.
VinceC
Veteran
Or the 50 f1.4
feenej
Well-known
Thanks. Oh, and I forgot; what on earth is that little metal fork/prong thing on Nikon lenses?
xayraa33
rangefinder user and fancier
that one in our classifieds looks like it will be the cats meow for a Nikkormat FT.
TEZillman
Well-known
Any Non-AI lens would be period appropriate. They are the ones with the solid rabbit ears. The little metal forks are the rabbit ears and they are used to connect the lens to the meter mechanically. The FS does not have a meter, so they aren't important there, but any of the cameras with meters prior to about 1973 need the ears. This includes all of the Nikkormats exsept the FT3 and the EL2 (I think, I'm going from memory here) The lenses with ears with holes in them are AI lens that will also work with later automatic indexing cameras
I had my Nikkormat CLA'd by: Quality Photo Service Camera Repair, 654 Ogden Ave, Downers Grove, IL, Phone: 630-493-0780 about a year ago and they did a fine job.
I had my Nikkormat CLA'd by: Quality Photo Service Camera Repair, 654 Ogden Ave, Downers Grove, IL, Phone: 630-493-0780 about a year ago and they did a fine job.
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feenej
Well-known
Oh. Makes sense. Thanks for the info.
ernstk
Retro Renaissance
I believe that the HC lens is too late for your camera. the 'C' means multi coated and I'm sure that didn't arrive until the early 70s.
A more correct lens would be the 50mm f2 'H' lens or the 50mm f1.4 'S' lens.
Any other lens that doesn't have the 'C' after the lens letter would be reasonably accurate, as long as it wasn't too early.
Regards
Ernst
A more correct lens would be the 50mm f2 'H' lens or the 50mm f1.4 'S' lens.
Any other lens that doesn't have the 'C' after the lens letter would be reasonably accurate, as long as it wasn't too early.
Regards
Ernst
TEZillman
Well-known
You may want to visit the following site. It has just about everything you ever wanted to know about older Nikon cameras on it somewhere. By the way, I have no relationship with either the camera shop (other than as a customer) or the website.
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/photography.htm
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/photography.htm
As stated, the Nikkor-H 50mm F2 or Nikkor-S 50mm F1.4 are "period correct". But a multi-coated lens will be more flare-resistant, and will not cost any more in this day and age.
sepiareverb
genius and moron
ernstk said:
I'm with Ernst- I've got a student with a beautifully brassed black FT and the 50/2.0 H lens, they were purchased together according to his uncles memory. They appear to be made for each other. My book (Moose Peterson Nikon Guide) lists them as concurrent.
Another student has the chrome FT but with a 35-70/3.5 lens that just doesn't look right at all on that body.
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Steve Bellayr
Veteran
I purchased my Nikkormat in 1970. It came with a 50mm f/2.0 lens. Nikkor-H Auto.
cary
Well-known
Another lens you might want to look at is the 105mm f2.5 or 135mm f3.5 with silver filter rings. I have heard good things about Essex Camera Repair for a CLA.
Steve Bellayr
Veteran
Steve Bellayr
Veteran
Sorry. Here is the website: http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/serialno.html
It's what you are after- a period-correct camera, or the image that has a bit more contrast and less prone to flare. The single coated lenses are fine performers, the Nikkor Multi-coated Non-AI lenses are like looking at rubies and emeralds. I use a factory-AI converted Nikkor-SC 50mm F1.4 on my F3. The lens is 10 years older than the camera, but it is just a great setup. And I keep a Nikkor-S 5cm F2 on an early F with eyelevel finder and 5.8cm F1.4 on a Nikon F Photomic. "not great performers", "Different look", Can only be explained by being potty trained too early.
With that said, I have enough cameras that are "period correct", and I do use them. But not as often as the ones that are multi-coated. For black and white, I'll grab the single-coated lenses. The lower-contrast looks better.
With that said, I have enough cameras that are "period correct", and I do use them. But not as often as the ones that are multi-coated. For black and white, I'll grab the single-coated lenses. The lower-contrast looks better.
KoNickon
Nick Merritt
Another place that specializes in Nikon overhauls is Pete Smith Photo in Lake Worth, FL. Maybe someone else can supply the link or e-mail address. I've had him do work for me and he is great.
Essex Camera Repair in NJ can do just about any camera, so they'd be another good option: www.essexcamera.com
Essex Camera Repair in NJ can do just about any camera, so they'd be another good option: www.essexcamera.com
Paulbe
Well-known
I have had excellent success with Henry at Henry Paine camera repair. If anybody can work on an EL and get it right--he can work on anything. Reasonable rates and pretty fast turnaround.
http://www.henrypaine.com/
http://www.henrypaine.com/
Okay. This is a camera forum- pictures help.
This is the 50mm F1.4 lens that was current when the Nikon F Photomic T was out, which is the same vintage as the Nikkormat FT:
"Nippon Kogaku" instead of "Nikon", change-over made ~1967, and a "V" shaped meter coupling ridge. Later changed to a curved shape. The V shape is "not optimal" for a Photomic head, but is fine for a Nikkormat.
This is the 50mm F1.4 lens that was current when the Nikon F Photomic T was out, which is the same vintage as the Nikkormat FT:
"Nippon Kogaku" instead of "Nikon", change-over made ~1967, and a "V" shaped meter coupling ridge. Later changed to a curved shape. The V shape is "not optimal" for a Photomic head, but is fine for a Nikkormat.
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A 5.8cm F1.4 preceded the 50/1.4 by a couple of years. Not made in "BIG" numbers, but plenty of them around when the FS was introduced. Very different optical formula than the 50mm F1.4 lens. Closer to a Leica Summarit.
And I've been tempted to replace the coupling ridge myself- does not stick with the Photomic Meter as well as the later ones.
And I've been tempted to replace the coupling ridge myself- does not stick with the Photomic Meter as well as the later ones.
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