dave lackey
Veteran
Hmmm...
Need some opinions on the pre-planning of shooting with the S3 2000 and the 1.4 lens.
Indoors: I have TMAX 400 and 3200 film (Tri-X 100 and 400 on the way)
Outdoors: Ilford 100/TMAX 400/ and 3200 film? (Tri-X 100 and 400 on the way)
So, here we have a lot of combinations.
Would appreciate some thoughts as to how you would make the selections based on the project or assignment at hand.
Any recommendations will be appreciated!
Need some opinions on the pre-planning of shooting with the S3 2000 and the 1.4 lens.
Indoors: I have TMAX 400 and 3200 film (Tri-X 100 and 400 on the way)
Outdoors: Ilford 100/TMAX 400/ and 3200 film? (Tri-X 100 and 400 on the way)
So, here we have a lot of combinations.
Would appreciate some thoughts as to how you would make the selections based on the project or assignment at hand.
Any recommendations will be appreciated!
BillBingham2
Registered User
Tri-X and a Neutral Density Filter for outside.
B2 (;->
B2 (;->
dave lackey
Veteran
BillBingham2 said:
Bill,
That sounds good...100 or 400 film for outdoors? And where can I get the ND filter for the 1.4 lens?
BillBingham2
Registered User
I'd try reaching out to Tony R at PopFlash. Great guy and I bet he can fix you up with one or two.
B2 (;->
B2 (;->
furcafe
Veteran
Not sure what you're really asking. Do you have specific projects/assignments in mind? What kind of lighting do you anticipate shooting in? What kind of look are you trying to achieve?
If you're a newbie, just pick 1 or 2 films & get to know it better. Per Bill's post, ISO 400 films (Tri-X, T-Max 400, HP5+, Neopan 400, Delta 400, etc., etc.) are probably the most versatile.
Also, is there a ISO 100 Tri-X, now?
If you're a newbie, just pick 1 or 2 films & get to know it better. Per Bill's post, ISO 400 films (Tri-X, T-Max 400, HP5+, Neopan 400, Delta 400, etc., etc.) are probably the most versatile.
Also, is there a ISO 100 Tri-X, now?
dave lackey said:
dave lackey
Veteran
Newbie? I wish I were that young!
What I am really asking about is the best film to load up for any situation that might come up. Indoor or outdoor...I am still in the trial mode with the S3 2000 and once it becomes transparent in my hands, I will assign that camera to specific projects. So, any thoughts would be appreciated.
My lab has put the Tri-X on order...according to them there is a 100 but AFAIK, I will get what they have...400 is what I originally asked for.
Will let ya know when the order comes in.
What I am really asking about is the best film to load up for any situation that might come up. Indoor or outdoor...I am still in the trial mode with the S3 2000 and once it becomes transparent in my hands, I will assign that camera to specific projects. So, any thoughts would be appreciated.
My lab has put the Tri-X on order...according to them there is a 100 but AFAIK, I will get what they have...400 is what I originally asked for.
Will let ya know when the order comes in.
kjoosten
Rocket Scientist
Hi, Dave.
I have just been loading up Ilford Delta 400 consistently. I like the grain structure when enlarged to about 11x14, and it seems a pretty good compromise in speed.
Until I really get to know the S3 and the lenses I'm using, I try not to change film type - just one less variable to worry about.
I have just been loading up Ilford Delta 400 consistently. I like the grain structure when enlarged to about 11x14, and it seems a pretty good compromise in speed.
Until I really get to know the S3 and the lenses I'm using, I try not to change film type - just one less variable to worry about.
rbsinto
Well-known
Dave,
Based on my experience, I'd suggest 100 ISO film for shooting outside. As for the indoor stuff, I use 400 ISO colour slide and push it one or two stops when I don't want to use flash. You on the other hand, appear to be using print films so if you want to shoot indoors without flash, the 3200 ISO material will be more than enough.
As for your comment about the best film to load up on to cover any situation, there is no such animal. Trying to use one film to cover all situations is a comprimise at best, so if you don't have the luxury of multiple bodies to load with different kinds of film, you should know how to unload and reload a partially shot roll. If you know how to do this, it will make your life easier when you need to change rolls in mid stream, so you won't feel like you must pick one kind of film and shoot with it until it's all used up, regardless of the situation.
Unloading and re-loading a partially shot roll;
First note the number of frames already shot. Turn the film direction selector around the shutter button from the A to the R position. Slowly rewind the film. At the point that the film leader slips off the take-up spool, you'll hear a "click".
Stop rewinding, and remove the film from the camera. the leader will be sticking out of the film canister. On the film tab (from the cardboard box that the film came in), write "X frames exposed, start X+2 frames"
Wrap the cardboard film tab around the roll of film and secure it with an elastic until you want to insert it back int o the camera.
To install the film in the camera, making sure that the lens cap is on the lens or body cap on the body if no lens installed, insert the film normally. close the camera and advance to two frames past the number of frames shot previously, then remove the lens cap and shoot from there.
Because the registration in the camera is likely off beyond the point where you re-installed the film, be sure to ask the lab to visually inspect the film while slicing it (if is is slide film) so they don't accidently cut a picture or pictures in half beyond the point where you shot after re-inserting.
To keep track of the film tabs when shooting, I pirated old film backs and took the memo holders off and either glued one to the back of the camera (as I did on my beater F), or sewed it to the camera strap (as I did for my S3).
That way I always know what film is in the camera.
I hope this information is helpful.
Based on my experience, I'd suggest 100 ISO film for shooting outside. As for the indoor stuff, I use 400 ISO colour slide and push it one or two stops when I don't want to use flash. You on the other hand, appear to be using print films so if you want to shoot indoors without flash, the 3200 ISO material will be more than enough.
As for your comment about the best film to load up on to cover any situation, there is no such animal. Trying to use one film to cover all situations is a comprimise at best, so if you don't have the luxury of multiple bodies to load with different kinds of film, you should know how to unload and reload a partially shot roll. If you know how to do this, it will make your life easier when you need to change rolls in mid stream, so you won't feel like you must pick one kind of film and shoot with it until it's all used up, regardless of the situation.
Unloading and re-loading a partially shot roll;
First note the number of frames already shot. Turn the film direction selector around the shutter button from the A to the R position. Slowly rewind the film. At the point that the film leader slips off the take-up spool, you'll hear a "click".
Stop rewinding, and remove the film from the camera. the leader will be sticking out of the film canister. On the film tab (from the cardboard box that the film came in), write "X frames exposed, start X+2 frames"
Wrap the cardboard film tab around the roll of film and secure it with an elastic until you want to insert it back int o the camera.
To install the film in the camera, making sure that the lens cap is on the lens or body cap on the body if no lens installed, insert the film normally. close the camera and advance to two frames past the number of frames shot previously, then remove the lens cap and shoot from there.
Because the registration in the camera is likely off beyond the point where you re-installed the film, be sure to ask the lab to visually inspect the film while slicing it (if is is slide film) so they don't accidently cut a picture or pictures in half beyond the point where you shot after re-inserting.
To keep track of the film tabs when shooting, I pirated old film backs and took the memo holders off and either glued one to the back of the camera (as I did on my beater F), or sewed it to the camera strap (as I did for my S3).
That way I always know what film is in the camera.
I hope this information is helpful.
Last edited:
xayraa33
rangefinder user and fancier
go alla the 1960s and 1970s, just load that S3 with Tri X and you are good to go for most situations, indoor or out.
furcafe
Veteran
I meant newbie to RF &/or B&W film photography, not age or photography generally. I'm not exactly a youngster myself. 
If you already have a favorite film, I see no reason why it wouldn't work just fine in the S3. The Millennium 50/1.4 has modern coatings, etc. & won't give you a particularly "vintage" look by itself; it's kind of like the Leica pre-ASPH Summilux.
If you're trying to settle on a film(s), I strongly 2nd rbsinto's opinion: "As for your comment about the best film to load up on to cover any situation, there is no such animal." For ISO 100 B&W, I'm a big fan of Agfa APX 100, which is still available, though no longer manufactured (Agfa apparently made tons of the stuff before getting out of the photo biz). If the lighting is on the bright side (e.g., daytime window light, store interiors), your handholding & focusing skills are up to par, & your subjects aren't moving around, you can actually get good indoor shots w/ISO 100 film, though it will be wide-open. For really dark conditions, like your typical bar or fancy restaurant, I love Fuji Neopan 1600 for its contrasty, "film noir" look in most developers, but it's not everybody's cup of tea.
As far as ISO 100 Tri-X, that was just a joke. Unless Kodak's got a major product announcement coming, your lab must be referring to T-Max 100 or Plus-X (which is rated @ ISO 125). I think Tri-X has been ISO 400 since @ least the 1960s; it was rated ISO 200 when 1st introduced as a sheet film in the late '40s, but I don't know what the rated speed of the 35mm version was when introduced in 1954.
If you already have a favorite film, I see no reason why it wouldn't work just fine in the S3. The Millennium 50/1.4 has modern coatings, etc. & won't give you a particularly "vintage" look by itself; it's kind of like the Leica pre-ASPH Summilux.
If you're trying to settle on a film(s), I strongly 2nd rbsinto's opinion: "As for your comment about the best film to load up on to cover any situation, there is no such animal." For ISO 100 B&W, I'm a big fan of Agfa APX 100, which is still available, though no longer manufactured (Agfa apparently made tons of the stuff before getting out of the photo biz). If the lighting is on the bright side (e.g., daytime window light, store interiors), your handholding & focusing skills are up to par, & your subjects aren't moving around, you can actually get good indoor shots w/ISO 100 film, though it will be wide-open. For really dark conditions, like your typical bar or fancy restaurant, I love Fuji Neopan 1600 for its contrasty, "film noir" look in most developers, but it's not everybody's cup of tea.
As far as ISO 100 Tri-X, that was just a joke. Unless Kodak's got a major product announcement coming, your lab must be referring to T-Max 100 or Plus-X (which is rated @ ISO 125). I think Tri-X has been ISO 400 since @ least the 1960s; it was rated ISO 200 when 1st introduced as a sheet film in the late '40s, but I don't know what the rated speed of the 35mm version was when introduced in 1954.
dave lackey said:
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
usually I would say Tri X as an universal film. It can handle just about every situation and has enough "latitude" with conventional developers to compensate for minor foul-ups with exposures.
However, if you are looking for fine-grain, smooth mid-tones etc - I would look at the new Tmax-2 400. This is the reworked Tmax 400 and I find it remarkable (never thought I would say that about a Tmax emulsion!). The grain is pretty close to the best you get with 100 asa film, the latitude is much improved. You can actually get details in both shadows and highlights without needing to modify light, inside or outside!
Last October I got 14-15 rolls of this film in 35mm at the LHSA in Rochester. I was somewhat leery of it as I have been trying to get Tmax to behave for almost 20 years. I was surprised and impressed with this new emulsion. Truly fine grained and very sharp edge. Not as forgiving as the Tri X, but much smoother tones. It is good enough that you really dont need a 100 asa film, unless you are looking for specific characteristics (high contrast, accutance etc).
I processed the rolls I got in D76/Beutler/Rodinal/ etc - normal soups and I found that with about 10% increase in time from tri X. I got very good results. True 400 speed too!
I am now waiting to get the film here in Vancouver and to stock with a couple of 100 rolls for spring/summer and travel. At the moment I am shooting Double XX (250 asa), but as that film is loaded in reloadable Nikon or Leica brass cassettes - it is not a travel film "Sir, what are these?" "Filmcassettes!" - "Hmm, they look suspiciously like 50 caliber cartridges. Please open them"!
However, if you are looking for fine-grain, smooth mid-tones etc - I would look at the new Tmax-2 400. This is the reworked Tmax 400 and I find it remarkable (never thought I would say that about a Tmax emulsion!). The grain is pretty close to the best you get with 100 asa film, the latitude is much improved. You can actually get details in both shadows and highlights without needing to modify light, inside or outside!
Last October I got 14-15 rolls of this film in 35mm at the LHSA in Rochester. I was somewhat leery of it as I have been trying to get Tmax to behave for almost 20 years. I was surprised and impressed with this new emulsion. Truly fine grained and very sharp edge. Not as forgiving as the Tri X, but much smoother tones. It is good enough that you really dont need a 100 asa film, unless you are looking for specific characteristics (high contrast, accutance etc).
I processed the rolls I got in D76/Beutler/Rodinal/ etc - normal soups and I found that with about 10% increase in time from tri X. I got very good results. True 400 speed too!
I am now waiting to get the film here in Vancouver and to stock with a couple of 100 rolls for spring/summer and travel. At the moment I am shooting Double XX (250 asa), but as that film is loaded in reloadable Nikon or Leica brass cassettes - it is not a travel film "Sir, what are these?" "Filmcassettes!" - "Hmm, they look suspiciously like 50 caliber cartridges. Please open them"!
VinceC
Veteran
I tend to just shoot 400 film. It works indoors and out and I don't have to get stuck with the wrong film in the camera.
Outdoors in sun, you're limited to 1000 at f/11. ... However, a two-stop neutral density filter (available from b&h photo, among others ... 43mm thread) gives more flexibility for out-of-focus backgrounds.
Indoors, with a little practice, you'll find you can handhold the S3 down to 1/8 of a second. It's also easy to find a makeshift tripod/table top if you must go slower. I've used the S3 to shoot in remarkably low light situations.
Outdoors in sun, you're limited to 1000 at f/11. ... However, a two-stop neutral density filter (available from b&h photo, among others ... 43mm thread) gives more flexibility for out-of-focus backgrounds.
Indoors, with a little practice, you'll find you can handhold the S3 down to 1/8 of a second. It's also easy to find a makeshift tripod/table top if you must go slower. I've used the S3 to shoot in remarkably low light situations.
dave lackey
Veteran
Now we're cookin'...
Just checked on the Kodak website and found 320 and 400 Tri-X film.
Looks like the lab guy was "off"? Can't wait until my order comes in since I have never used Tri-x before.
Just checked on the Kodak website and found 320 and 400 Tri-X film.
Looks like the lab guy was "off"? Can't wait until my order comes in since I have never used Tri-x before.
furcafe
Veteran
The ISO 320 is "Tri-X Pan Professional" & is different from the ISO 400 version, however, you don't need to worry about it because it's only offered in 120 & 220 size.
dave lackey said: