undies
Member
I encountered a strange problem with my GSN this weekend: With the aperture set at f16 the shutter opens but will not close until I wind the film lever. It works correctly at all other apertures and meters correctly. I'm not even sure if this is a new problem because I hardly ever use f16. Anyone else ever see this particular issue?
I've been using the timer a lot lately, I wonder if that is somehow related
I've been using the timer a lot lately, I wonder if that is somehow related
JL Oliveto
Member
Pod
Pod
Hi undies...it seems the Pad of Death (POD)....check in this forum about it...it's a common problem and a not difficult solution...
Regards
JL Oliveto
Pod
Hi undies...it seems the Pad of Death (POD)....check in this forum about it...it's a common problem and a not difficult solution...
Regards
JL Oliveto
undies
Member
I was hoping you wouldn't say that. I suppose this means that I now have two GSNs that need POD replacement. I guess I'll have to learn how to do this
tunznath
Established
Hi Undies
I have 3 electros, and have done the POD on all of them, 2 electro G ( the first ones) work really well on all apertures, and my electro GTN works on all apertures including f16, but when the light is really low the aperture stays open on f16 until it is pointed at a brighter light source. As you said you havent really used f16 much, and as i think if I was shooting in really low light I wouldnt need f16 anyhow - maybe you can live with it - I can
Or you can do the pod replacement through the front of the camera without taking off the lens kinda fiddly, and if you drop the new pod into the camera with superglue on well then!!!! BTW i dont think it has anything to do with the self timer - i am wary of using the self timer on old cameras in case they get jammed
IMO if it is working for you - shoot it till it doesnt work then fix it
I have 3 electros, and have done the POD on all of them, 2 electro G ( the first ones) work really well on all apertures, and my electro GTN works on all apertures including f16, but when the light is really low the aperture stays open on f16 until it is pointed at a brighter light source. As you said you havent really used f16 much, and as i think if I was shooting in really low light I wouldnt need f16 anyhow - maybe you can live with it - I can
Or you can do the pod replacement through the front of the camera without taking off the lens kinda fiddly, and if you drop the new pod into the camera with superglue on well then!!!! BTW i dont think it has anything to do with the self timer - i am wary of using the self timer on old cameras in case they get jammed
IMO if it is working for you - shoot it till it doesnt work then fix it
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undies
Member
Yeah, I may just live without f16 for a while until I start seeing exposure problems at other apertures. That said, I need to learn how to do the POD replacement anyway, and I have two GSNs so I can practice on the one that is currently dead.tunznath said:
Harlee
Well-known
I've replaced several PODs on GSNs, GTNs and MG-1s, and it's been my experience that I don't want to try it from the front again. I have two GSN's in a box for parts due to the facts that I attempted to open up the front of the camera to replace the POD. I know that many people had done it successfully, but I haven't, ever! I might suggest that if you remove the top to try it, also remove the bottom - I've had a POD fall into the camera, and after a bit, it dropped out through the bottom. A can of pressurized air will also help blow out any debris which may fall into the camera body when removing the old pad.
I took a fine jewlers screwdriver [you can pick up a whole set for a buck at a dollar store] and bent the blade at about a 45 degree angle to scrape the old pad away. Then when your ready to replace the old pad, take a safety pin and bent it so that you can slip the pad under the shutter pressure plate, the part that goes down when you press down on the shutter. You can see it when the top is removed.
I'd be hesitant about using super glue, cause it dries so fast. I use something like contact cement; it's a little better cause it gives you time to move the new POD into it's proper position, and once you take pressure off the shutter button the shutter pressure plate will return to it's upward position and hold the POD in place till the contact cement [or something similar] dries.
It really sounds more complicated than it is. Good luck - a new POD will make a world of difference in your camera's operation. One of my Yashica MG-1 cameras stayed open in dim light, but now with a new POD it works as it was designed to do.
I took a fine jewlers screwdriver [you can pick up a whole set for a buck at a dollar store] and bent the blade at about a 45 degree angle to scrape the old pad away. Then when your ready to replace the old pad, take a safety pin and bent it so that you can slip the pad under the shutter pressure plate, the part that goes down when you press down on the shutter. You can see it when the top is removed.
I'd be hesitant about using super glue, cause it dries so fast. I use something like contact cement; it's a little better cause it gives you time to move the new POD into it's proper position, and once you take pressure off the shutter button the shutter pressure plate will return to it's upward position and hold the POD in place till the contact cement [or something similar] dries.
It really sounds more complicated than it is. Good luck - a new POD will make a world of difference in your camera's operation. One of my Yashica MG-1 cameras stayed open in dim light, but now with a new POD it works as it was designed to do.