New M2 - defects to check for

briandaly

briandaly

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I've just received an M2 today along with a 5cm collapsible Elmar and wondered if there are defects I should look out for.
I've read Stephen Gandy's article (http://www.cameraquest.com/leicamchecklist.htm)
and wondered if anyone had anything else to add.
Also, I'm unclear about what he is referring to when he mentions the left shutter seem - can anyone elaborate on this.
Thanks,
Brian
 
Make sure the strap lugs aren't loose. They should be in tightly and should not rotate at all. Replacement means disassembling the camera and riveting in new replacements.

Other than running a test roll to make sure that the RF/VF and lens couple properly that's all I can think of.
 
when checking any M camera, listen to the various speeds up close to see if working properly. The general consensus is to listen to 1/15. I listen to 1/15, 1/125, and 1/1.
 
Focus the camera from infinity to near and back again and watch the frameline movement to see it sticks at all. It should be smooth with no hang ups. It's a cheap repair though. That's something I experienced that wasn't on the s. gandy list, and took me a while to notice.
Also, my M2's shutter speed dial got loose after three years of constant use. Also a a cheap adjustment.
 
Shutter speeds sound OK, although I'm obviously no expert.
Framelines move smoothly.
I've also checked the shutter curtains for light leaks - none that I can see.

Just noticed the 50/2.8 Elmar has 14 blades - puts Canon's L glass to shame.
No wonder Leica can't make a profit with this level of craftmanship!
 
If the camera has been idle for a long time -open the back and see how the curtains travel. At the end of the curtains there is metal bar crimped on to it (running vertically). Occasionally you have a tired 2nd curtain and the metalbar does not go all the way in behind the filmgate. When the camera is released and you look through the back, all you should see is curtain material, not the metal bar poking out on the left of the filmgate.
Also hold the camera up to your eye, again with the back open and look through the filmgate. Run through the full gamut of filmspeeds while aiming the camera (without the lens) at a strong lightsource. The slow speeds should be even and the curtain should travel smoothly across the filmgate. The speeds fom 1/125 on should show a progressively "shorter" exposure, but at least up to 1/500 you should see the whole filmgate open (1/1000 too but that one is difficult to judge by eyeballing it). If there is a problem with speeds it is usually too slow at 1 sec. and 1/2 sec and "capping" at 1/250 and up. This means that the second curtain follows too close to the first one and there is no visible light through.

A simple test is to pick a wall or evenly colored surface, run a film through at all the speeds (moderate the light with apertures). You might be going from 1 sec/f16 to f/2 at 1/1000 - but the negative should show very similar exposure across the board. As the M-shutter is a mechanical shutter, you will find that the 1/500 or 1/1000 will most likely have a bit "brighter" image tone as it is rare to have exactly 1/500 or 1/1000 speeds dead on.

While you are doing this test, also check focussing accuracy by simply measure off 1meter (or 3 feet if that is how you lens is marked), 2meters (6 ft) and 5 meters (15 feet). Measure the distance from the back edge of the camera and preferably on a tripod (the exact distance is about 3mm in from the back edge - but unless you do repro work, it is not that critcial. Set the lens at indicated distance and shoot. Use something that is easy to see on the neagtive, a pole, back of a chair or something with empty space ahead and behind it so it is easy to see. Again do this with the lens at f2 or 2.8.

While it sounds more complicated than it is, once you have "wasted" a film this way - you will know how the camera behaves at various distances.

I do this procedure every year with each of my cameras. It makes it easy to see if a specific body is "drifting" towards a CLA.

M cameras hate being idle so shoot away!
 
Tom A said:
If the camera has been idle for a long time -open the back and see how the curtains travel. At the end of the curtains there is metal bar crimped on to it (running vertically). Occasionally you have a tired 2nd curtain and the metalbar does not go all the way in behind the filmgate. When the camera is released and you look through the back, all you should see is curtain material, not the metal bar poking out on the left of the filmgate.
Also hold the camera up to your eye, again with the back open and look through the filmgate. Run through the full gamut of filmspeeds while aiming the camera (without the lens) at a strong lightsource. The slow speeds should be even and the curtain should travel smoothly across the filmgate. The speeds fom 1/125 on should show a progressively "shorter" exposure, but at least up to 1/500 you should see the whole filmgate open (1/1000 too but that one is difficult to judge by eyeballing it). If there is a problem with speeds it is usually too slow at 1 sec. and 1/2 sec and "capping" at 1/250 and up. This means that the second curtain follows too close to the first one and there is no visible light through.

A simple test is to pick a wall or evenly colored surface, run a film through at all the speeds (moderate the light with apertures). You might be going from 1 sec/f16 to f/2 at 1/1000 - but the negative should show very similar exposure across the board. As the M-shutter is a mechanical shutter, you will find that the 1/500 or 1/1000 will most likely have a bit "brighter" image tone as it is rare to have exactly 1/500 or 1/1000 speeds dead on.

While you are doing this test, also check focussing accuracy by simply measure off 1meter (or 3 feet if that is how you lens is marked), 2meters (6 ft) and 5 meters (15 feet). Measure the distance from the back edge of the camera and preferably on a tripod (the exact distance is about 3mm in from the back edge - but unless you do repro work, it is not that critcial. Set the lens at indicated distance and shoot. Use something that is easy to see on the neagtive, a pole, back of a chair or something with empty space ahead and behind it so it is easy to see. Again do this with the lens at f2 or 2.8.

While it sounds more complicated than it is, once you have "wasted" a film this way - you will know how the camera behaves at various distances.

I do this procedure every year with each of my cameras. It makes it easy to see if a specific body is "drifting" towards a CLA.

M cameras hate being idle so shoot away!
Click to expand...

Thanks Tom.
In fact, it was one of your articles that finally pushed me over the edge to get the M2 over any other M.
About 3mm of the left curtain's metal bar is visible from the back. Does the camera need a CLA straight away, or what will be the symptom caused by this?

Thanks,
Brian
 
Brian, it should have a CLA at some time. Shoot some stuff with it and occasionally this "self-repairs" with just the exercise. Usually the problem will be at slower speeds as the curtain "drags" itself across the filmgate. However if you know that it does this, just avoid those speeds until the CLA.
I shoot a whole trip with one M2 doing just this. I stuck my 21 on it and bracketted the shots at 1sec and 1/2 sec. Worked fine.
Just do the speed test and keep in mind which speeds are slightly off and compensate for the time being. No fun getting a "new" M2 and immideately having to send it away!
Welcome to the Year Of The M2!
 
Finally got my M2 back from the CLA. Ran a roll of Tri-X through straight away. Negatives hanging in the bathroom. Now to try scanning with my 12 year old Artec AM12EPlus...
 
Oh my- you were without the M2 for this long!! Well after the CLA you should be able to keep shooting for the next decade or two, but just in case - start looking for that 2nd body as a back-up and for the 35.
M2's tend to attract each other. You get one and suddenly and inexplicable there is one more and later one more again.
Happy shooting and cant wait for the posting of the pictures.
 
Brian,

Be wary of an empty film chamber...🙂

Congrats and Best Regards,

Bob
 
Thanks Bob. I still stare at the back of the camera after each shot - 30D shooting still ingrained.

Tom, you've read my mind. A 35 is top of my wish list - just can't decide which one - Nokton 1.4 Vs 1.2 Vs Biogon or maybe just a "cheap" Skopar - but wait, still have a Canon L addiction to feed - better not blow all the budget on this M-mount gear. Sounds like your M2s are breeding like bunnies. I'm going to try and resist any further gear acquisition after the 35.
On the 35, I've brought up the 35 framelines on my M2 with the 50 mounted and find it very hard to see the edges (I wear glasses). From your avatar, looks like you do too - how do find the 35 framelines?
 
Brian,
Looking right now through my new M2 (I wear eyeglasses) I can't see all four framelines without shifting my eye -slightly- from side to side. The good news, is, especially when shooting "on the fly" just raise the camera to your eye, point, and click. Close enough, most of the time. Completely ignoring any framelines, the M2 shows a 35mm view. For most rangefinder uses, this is entirely adaquate.

-Dan, when I need greater viewing precision, I change to one of my Sinar Norma view cameras.
 
Brian, once you used the M2 long enough with a 35 - the frames are irrelevant. You metally compose even before you put the camera up to your eye and the frame lines are mostly used for lining up verticals or horizontals in the shot. It becomes very intuitive and thats when the M2 'sings".
Shooting with a rangefinder in any fashion, you will never have the precise framing of a SLR anyway and thats part of the allure. It is just you and your eye and what you see. No mirror slap and dark viewscreen and you see what happens exactly when you press the release!
As for which 35, any of them will do well. If you are only going to be using one lens, a slightly faster one makes sense. You can handhold a M at speeds that are "hypothetical" with a SLR and a f2 or 1.4 expands the usefulness.
The 35f2.5 Skopar is a superb lens. Rivals the Summicron in quality. The Nokton 1.4 again, as good as the Summilux 35 pre-asph. Both of these lenses are smallish and that makes the camera comfortable to take along all the time. The 35f1.2 is a big lens and I consider it a special occasion lens. There is nothing like it when the lights dim, but in "normal" light it is a bit of overkill.
Od course with the Canon around, you could also look out for the Canon 35f2 and it could be used on both (or the 35f1.8 Canon) - small and though a bit vintage look to the negative, very good for the money.
 
Tom A said:
...with the Canon around, you could also look out for the Canon 35f2 and it could be used on both (or the 35f1.8 Canon) - small and though a bit vintage look to the negative, very good for the money.
Click to expand...

Tom,
Are you saying that Leica Thread Mount lenses can be adapted to the Canon EF mount with a simple adapter? From what I've read, this doesn't work for M-mount lenses without having a permanent change made to the lens. Can't find anything on LTM to EF adapters.
 
For what it's worth, my M2 was brought to a local 'Leica doctor' for a CLA this morning.

Indeed the 'seam' was visible, and the speeds were obviously off. 1/1000th was also hanging up since a day or two.

@Tom: I'll have to wait a week or so before I get my M2 back, but I'll manage, I have lived 36 years without one after all 😀 Tomorrow will be an SLR day.
 
Since I got my M2 back from the CLA, the speeds seem about right although I haven't run Tom's speed test yet.
However, the seam and metal bar on the left hand side of the shutter is visible when the shutter is in the is released state. Should I worry about this (after spending €138 on the CLA)?
 
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