Second Epson R-D1 Replacement Body with Dead LCD--What Would You Do?

[edhohoho]

To make a long story short, I bought a refurbished R-D1 from an RFF member and had rangefinder and hot pixel problems that required replacement of the entire body by Epson, but that replacement had a dead LCD upon arrival so the body was replaced a second time. Well, the second replacement body now has a dead LCD (with no readily identifiable cause) and is no longer under warranty, and now Steve at Steve's Camera Service in Los Angeles says he can't seem to find out what is wrong with the LCD function despite disassembling the camera entirely (he has fixed a similar LCD problem in one other Epson that came through his shop).

In reality, I don't use the LCD that often, but I am bothered by the fact that without the LCD, I can't quickly preview a picture, delete pictures, change certain settings, reformat the SD card, and run hot pixel correction/mapping should the need arise.

Also, I am not in a position to afford a Leica M8 in the forseeable future (though I would love to get one at some point), and I happen to actually like the handling and image rendering of the R-D1 for my current usage and needs.

So, what would you do in this situation? (And I would wish this situation on no one.) Right now, all I can do is hope that when Steve gets another R-D1 in his shop next week, he can somehow elucidate the problem and get it fixed (assuming he doesn't need Epson parts or can actually convince Epson to supply him with parts as he is not an official Epson service center). But if he can't fix the camera...

1. Cut my losses at this point and attempt to live with the dead LCD as all other functions are fine (knock on wood) and save up for a used or brand new R-D1s...or perhaps an M8 or other digital RF if the timeframe is long enough and the current camera holds up for that long.

2. Bring my R-D1 to an Epson service center (that does not specialize in cameras), pay them $40 to "take a look," and then more likely than not have them send the camera to Epson for a flat-rate $511 repair fee. I will probably get another replacement body of unknown history or quality and continue this game of Russian roulette.

3. Attempt to sell my R-D1 with a dead LCD for a really cheap price to someone who wants it for parts or is not bothered by the lack of an LCD, and then use that money towards a used or brand new R-D1s. (In the meantime I would have no camera. Also, selling any of my current lenses to fund this is not an option because I spent too much time finding in some cases rare glass at relatively acceptable prices.)

4. None of the above. (In this case, please provide your novel solution in a reply to the thread.)

5. Forget this whole digital RF and photography thing because it's proving too stressful! (I don't think DSLRs are for me...too big, menacing, and complicated for me.)

 

[Rob-F]

Get a Digilux 2 or a D-Lux3.

 

[photogdave]

How long after you got the 2nd body until the LCD died? Sounds like it's not due to improper use. Even though the warranty has expired I would still ask Epson to replacement because it sounds like a lemon camera. Ask them real nice and then real hard.
If you have to pay the $500 or so after all, then pay it and sell it on eBay (not here) and go back to trouble-free film!

 

[haagen_dazs]

i personally think you should talk to epson about this since they did not do a good job for you (at least from how you have described your situation)
all the best

 

[Honus]

If my LCD died (I have a R-D1 refurb, as well), I would just live with it. I often shoot with it turned inward anyway, so it wouldn't be a big loss. Try shooting with it that way for a month or so. Then you should have a better idea of what is best for you at that time.

 

[edhohoho]

Thanks for the replies so far.

I will definitely try to call Epson again next week. Now that I think of it, the second replacement body has only been used for 2.5 months, but the warranty for the "repair" is only 30 days. I will try to build a case for myself with all the previous work orders and call reference numbers so that they can see that this is a pattern.

I usually don't use the LCD and was thinking of leaving well enough alone, but I recently found some hot pixels that I would like to have mapped with the in-camera software. Unfortunately I can't access any of the software features without the LCD. And it would be nice to have the use of the other features whenever I need them.

 

[tomasis]

it'd be fun to live without lcd. rd1 suddenly becomes film camera like a bessa r. You couldn't see pictures directly so you long to come home and see pictures developed from negatives 😀

 

[jjcha]

I'd try and replace it, but I suppose one could live with it. To access the fix dead pixels, do the following:

make sure you have a full battery

screen button
menu button
one click clockwise on the dial
enter button
one click counterclockwise on the dial
enter button
three clicks clockwise on the dial
enter button
one click clockwise
enter button


wait 30 seconds or so and you should be good to go.

Good luck!

Best,

-Jason

 

[Geo]

I only use the screen now and then to access the menu,
never when I am shooting, it's actually always folded inside.
Besides that my RD-1 is in a Luigi bag with closed back.
But incase my screen would die, I would have it repaired no matter what.
Love this cam.

 

[Griffin]

I'll buy it from you!

 

[Lss]

So, what happened with the camera?

Anyway, Jason's message above is useful. I have been thinking about writing down the steps to get all important stuff done, so that I can use my R-D1 if the screen ever dies. These are basically format, dead pixel mapping, and sensor cleaning. Possibly also changing some of the JPEG settings.

Edit. I started pondering whether R-D1 even has a sensor cleaning function. It is at least a year since it needed cleaning. Anyway, add dial calibration to the list, although I have never had to use it so far.

 

[ryback]

i´ve started another thread because I´m also stuck in this problem.

maybe the users with a dead lcd try to access firmwaremode to see if the lcd itself is broken or if there is some other issue??

 

[ryback]

of course you´re right, but without display you can´t even switch the cam from color to monochrome or anything else. no one needs the display to view pics but to configure the cam.

Pretend your a film tog. You still are breast fed the easy pix with digital process. When shooting film you had no screen. So blast away and be happy!

 

[radical7]

Slap a sticker on the back saying: "No chimping allowed"
Keep it, you don't really need the LCD, you can change your RAW settings on the top, you should be good

 

[mfogiel]

I use more than 25 cameras, and not one of them has a functioning LCD, in fact, they have no LCD at all. Moreover, as the story blowing in the wind goes, HCB has taken some of the best photographs ever made over a span of 70 years, and he didn't have no LCD either. I think you can make it as well, I'd even suggest to ditch your Iphone too, and close your facebook account for a few months- you will have much more time to dedicate to photography...

 

[ryback]

As I said, everything right, but at the moment, without lcd, I can´t switch the cam from monochrome to color. 🙁

But I´ve brought it back to life. Wohooo. 😀 So my problem is solved so far.

 

[Lss]

without lcd, I can´t switch the cam from monochrome to color. 🙁

That's actually pretty simple once you have the required sequence written down. It goes as follows:

Display
Menu
Dial 1 click clockwise
Enter
Enter
Dial 1 click clockwise (for colour to monochrome: counterclockwise)
Enter

If your card is formatted/empty, 'Menu' button gives you 'Settings' directly instead of 'Delete'. In this case, you may omit the third step as it has no effect. (But perhaps it's easiest and safest to just use the above sequence.)

Note that the above sequence will give you the previously used filter when you select monochrome. If you want to change the filter:

Display
Menu
Enter
Enter
Dial 1 click counterclockwise (this guarantees you get b&w!)
Menu
(Turn dial in either direction to cycle through filters)
Enter (to set the filter)

Cycling clockwise, the sequence of filters is: standard, red, orange, yellow, green. Counterclockwise goes through them in the other direction, and the cycle repeats over and over again. For this reason, changing the filter setting in the field requires good memory or notes, because you cannot check the effect without seeing the photos on some other device. Choosing between colour and monochrome is safe. You can do it blindly.