sockeyed
Well-known
Reala shouldn't be dull like that, especially given a one-stop push. Get some quality prints made or even some cheap scans on a Frontier, as IK13 suggests. I usually rate my Reala at ISO80, and the colours are rich and vivid but accurate and not overly-saturated.
Reala should look like this (Frontier scans):
Reala should look like this (Frontier scans):



Arvay
Obscurant
I'm inspired by autumm colours. I can not imagine it without color photos..
Two more that were shot in Korea in December 2007
Two more that were shot in Korea in December 2007


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shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
OK, got my reala. EI 50 helps a bit, but results are fairly poor to my eyes. low sharpness and I can't get tonality right, even with editing. I probably need some modern glass: the old collapsible summicron's colors are ugly, my J-12 performs a bit better (and warmer).
samples from a dual scan III with auto exposure: http://satsuki.nl/teus/photos/tech/reala/reala.jpg
real world photos:
this leaves me fairly unhappy, digital captures require way less editing to look snappy. I should try some "ultra color" or so, in my SLR with 50mm f/1.8 AF (or f/1.2 with older coatings).what do you people think?
Teus, to me, looks like these are a bit overexposed --> low contrast. I've seen a gorgeous Holga shot, so, the lens is likely not the problem
The beauty of film is that you get to choose and experiment with different formulas *and* sizes to see which one fits you.
I am partial to Kodak because so far, I haven't used Fuji stuff that much. As you can see in the examples in this thread, color films, when exposed and scanned correctly matches or exceeds digital in terms of contrast, sharpness, and especially tonal range.
If it's feasible in your area, try Kodachrome, sample (from a very outdated roll):

Also try out the bigger Polaroids, sample (Polaroid 690, not expired):

My favorite is Kodak Hi-def 200 ASA, sample:

Kodak Gold 200 is not bad either, sample:

IK13
Established
Teus, I hope you don't mind - I took the liberty to touch up quickly one of your Reala scans - just to bring some color and contrast back...
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showfull.php?photo=83729
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showfull.php?photo=83729
hans voralberg
Veteran
That look much better actually. And Sockeyed, are you pics originally scanned in like that, or is any PP done to them yet? My Reala is also very accurate and vivid, but not that vivid, might be due to the ample amount of light in your situation ?
Kevin
Rainbow Bridge
Iiieeekk, now I want to sell all my recently-acquired digital cameras and shoot only colour negative film. Stop it!
sockeyed
Well-known
Hans - I did not do any Photoshop work to those images, but I believe the Frontier scans may have been slightly tweaked during scanning. The first two images are shot with the CV 25mm f/4 lens, which is a fairly 'snappy' lens in terms of contrast. The third is with the CV 40mm f/1.4 SC.
Darkroom prints from these negatives come out quite similarly in terms of colour (a hair less saturated), but a bit more smooth.
Darkroom prints from these negatives come out quite similarly in terms of colour (a hair less saturated), but a bit more smooth.
Teus
Thijs Deschildre
beautiful colors. did you give them any correction?Reala shouldn't be dull like that, especially given a one-stop push. Get some quality prints made or even some cheap scans on a Frontier, as IK13 suggests. I usually rate my Reala at ISO80, and the colours are rich and vivid but accurate and not overly-saturated.
Reala should look like this (Frontier scans):
I'm scanning with a Minolta scan dual III. The black and white it scans is great. Only sometimes, flatly litten stuff with certain combinations becomes a bit murky.
bracketed photos: http://satsuki.nl/teus/photos/tech/reala/reala3.jpgTeus, to me, looks like these are a bit overexposed --> low contrast.
I might get some film scanned by a local lab or so, in case it's my scanner. The reala itself was still good till 2009 and was stored properly
thats kind of you. I'm not too good at correcting film scans like this yet, but I don't like editing something bad to start with :/Teus, I hope you don't mind - I took the liberty to touch up quickly one of your Reala scans - just to bring some color and contrast back...
BasketWeaver, Williamsburg Virgiana. Fujicolor 200, Type 2 Rigid Summicron on the M3, wide-open.

IK13
Established
Teus,
It's not your scanner per se. Minoltas are fine scanners.
This is what you'll get without tuning/profiling your scanner for this (or more or less any) film. Commercial scanners are tuned to bump up the contrast and saturation a bit and frankly their "auto-everything" approach actually works fine 90% of the cases.
If I were you and I'd want to get a more or less "ready" jpeg directly from the scanner - I'd try to either tune up whatever scanning software you're using for the particular film you're scanning. I'd also be cautious about the clipping that the "auto" modes might introduce.
I would recommend though scanning to raw/tiff and then adjusting in PP. Profiling your film in the post process level instead of the scanner. It seems more involved (but not much really if you get the settings dialed right once), but will give you more control. Well at least that's the theory...
It's not your scanner per se. Minoltas are fine scanners.
This is what you'll get without tuning/profiling your scanner for this (or more or less any) film. Commercial scanners are tuned to bump up the contrast and saturation a bit and frankly their "auto-everything" approach actually works fine 90% of the cases.
If I were you and I'd want to get a more or less "ready" jpeg directly from the scanner - I'd try to either tune up whatever scanning software you're using for the particular film you're scanning. I'd also be cautious about the clipping that the "auto" modes might introduce.
I would recommend though scanning to raw/tiff and then adjusting in PP. Profiling your film in the post process level instead of the scanner. It seems more involved (but not much really if you get the settings dialed right once), but will give you more control. Well at least that's the theory...
Teus
Thijs Deschildre
I'll think about this, and try some other films first. There's also the strange colors the film has: faces go reddish quickly, and it would involve specific editing again to get this rightIt's not your scanner per se. Minoltas are fine scanners.This is what you'll get without tuning/profiling your scanner for this (or more or less any) film.
srichmond
Established
I went to a Reuters photographic exhibtion at the weekend showing photographs taken in Iraq since 2003. Some really great bits of work, but couldn't help noticing how they'd all be shot in JPG, and didn't enlarge gracefully at all. Some were shockingly poor quality, which I thought was a great shame.
I couldn't help but reflect on how different, and probably more impressive they might have looked if they'd been shot with film. Then, again, it's not an easy choice when you're in a war zone.
I couldn't help but reflect on how different, and probably more impressive they might have looked if they'd been shot with film. Then, again, it's not an easy choice when you're in a war zone.
Terao
Kiloran
I'm going through a bit of a colour education myself and whilst I shoot a lot a slide (esp. Velvia, which back in the days of RSX I used to avoid like the plague) I'm edging towards C41 for ease of processing and scanning. Still experimenting with what stock I prefer (Sockeyed's Reala shots have sent me scurrying off to my film supplier) but I really like bog-standard Kodacolor Gold. Jessops give it away free when you process a film and it has a classic Kodak look that is sufficiently different to digital to make me want to use it (cheap and good is a good combination). For me the big benefit is:
1. No-one makes a digital camera that I actually enjoy using
2. No digital camera has the range of colour neg
3. I've yet to find a digital camera that handles skies properly to my eyes
I also like the fact that film stock makes such a difference. I'm not one for extensive post-processing and colour grading and I like the fact that Portra looks different to Reala, or Kodak Gold, or no-name drugstore film, etc.
1. No-one makes a digital camera that I actually enjoy using
2. No digital camera has the range of colour neg
3. I've yet to find a digital camera that handles skies properly to my eyes
I also like the fact that film stock makes such a difference. I'm not one for extensive post-processing and colour grading and I like the fact that Portra looks different to Reala, or Kodak Gold, or no-name drugstore film, etc.
Michael I.
Well-known
I don't shoot much color,and no digital at all.
http://sushiisyumi.blogspot.com/2008/03/sunset-in-samaria.html#links
6X4.5 fuji reala 100
http://sushiisyumi.blogspot.com/2008/01/holy-mother-of-god.html#links
http://sushiisyumi.blogspot.com/2007/11/red-iwo-jima.html
35mm fuji x-tra 400
I like muted colors as opposed to the digital vibrant ones.
http://sushiisyumi.blogspot.com/2008/03/sunset-in-samaria.html#links
6X4.5 fuji reala 100
http://sushiisyumi.blogspot.com/2008/01/holy-mother-of-god.html#links
http://sushiisyumi.blogspot.com/2007/11/red-iwo-jima.html
35mm fuji x-tra 400
I like muted colors as opposed to the digital vibrant ones.
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Teus
Thijs Deschildre
got my roll of 160VC processed. exposed the film with my new light meter. learning now how to properly incident meter, exciting!
160VC isn't as forgiving like Reala, and is pretty wonky when colors start shifting through different exposures. but generally, great success: acceptable images to start with that require no unusual tricks to look right:
160VC isn't as forgiving like Reala, and is pretty wonky when colors start shifting through different exposures. but generally, great success: acceptable images to start with that require no unusual tricks to look right:



Teus
Thijs Deschildre
skin tones look OK. the last photos has a bit the "orange" feeling C41 films have, but it's fairly OK here. I might get to appreciate this.
I'll get some Kodak 100UC to try. keep suggestions coming :angel:
edit: relevant to your interests, fuji & kodak overview charts
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/e103nf/e103nf.pdf
http://www.fujifilmusa.com/JSP/fuji/epartners/prophoto/pdfs/Pro_Film_One_Page_Guide.pdf
I'll get some Kodak 100UC to try. keep suggestions coming :angel:
edit: relevant to your interests, fuji & kodak overview charts
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/e103nf/e103nf.pdf
http://www.fujifilmusa.com/JSP/fuji/epartners/prophoto/pdfs/Pro_Film_One_Page_Guide.pdf
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sockeyed
Well-known
No digital camera has the range of colour neg
I would agree with this for the large majority of cameras, but my Canon 5D comes very close if I shoot RAW and process my images in Lightroom (and I'm a guy who loves colour neg film).
Warning! DSLR image to follow!!

I chose this one because it has a pretty high dynamic range but doesn't blow the highlights and retains some shadow detail.
I still prefer the look of colour neg though.
Leighgion
Bovine Overseer
I couldn't help but reflect on how different, and probably more impressive they might have looked if they'd been shot with film. Then, again, it's not an easy choice when you're in a war zone.
No doubt that'd be true in some cases, but it also must be considered that many of the shots would likely not have existed if digital hadn't been an option. The simple fact is, a compact digital P&S requires a great deal less care & feeding to keep by your side than a film camera. Pay a few hundred bucks and you can get a pocketable digital P&S with enough memory cards to match scores of rolls of film with very limited, if any, need to reload. That's true just of ordinary life, to say nothing of a war zone.
Better the JPG you have than the Kodak you don't.
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