Filters for black and white

Gordon Coale

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I just recieved a camera that came with an assortment of filters for black and white. (Meopta Flexaret III. Yes it has one lens too many but I will need to know this for my rangefinders. Really!) There are 3 yellows, a red, and a blue. I've never used filters for black and white before. I know that Ansel Adams used red filters to get those dark skies. What are the others used for and what kind of filter factors? The yellows are marked G1, G2, G3; the blue filter is marked B1; and the red filter is marked 02-R1. I'm shooting 120 XP2. This black and white is so complicated!
 
Gordon, I also have a Flexaret (mine is Flexaret V), and mine has a filter list and exposure corrections on the back, for "Ortho", "Ortho-Pan" and "Pan" films (different emulsion which, I think, are not available any more).

Anyway, from the numbers there, I guess the filter factors and corrections would be as follows:

(Filter > Factor > Exp. correction, in f-stops)
G1 > 1,5X > -0,5 (Light yellow)
G2 > 2x > -1 (Medium yellow)
G3 > 3x > -1,5 ("Strong"/dark yellow)

B1 > 2x > -0,5 (Blue)

R1 > 6x > -2,5 (Red)

The first number is correction factor, and the second number indicates correction in f-stops, e.g. for G1 (light yellow) filter, if the indicated exposure without filter is e.g. 1/60 at f 5.6, you need to open up half a stop, so the exposure would be 1/60 at f 4.5 (between f5.6 and f4).

The filter designations are from German language - using probably old Zeiss markings or something, where "G" means "Gelb" (for yellow), "B" is "Blau" (for blue), and "R" is "Rot" (for red).

You could also find filters designated as GGR (Gelb-Grün, i.e. yellow-green).


As for the usage of filters, I'm afraid that's a material for a full-sized book, and you should look it up also on the Web, if you need some more in-depth info.
I can only provide a short guide - yellows will darken the sky a bit (depending on grade - G1, G2 and G3, where G3 yields the strongest effect). Generally recommended for use with B&W film outdoors.

Blue (B1) will lighten blue subjects and increase bluish haze.

Red (R1) will lighten red and yellow subjects, darken blue water and blue skies dramatically.

In general, filters render their own color lighter (i.e. yellow filter will lighten yellow leaves, red filter will render a red apple very light, etc.), and darken their complementary color, i.e. make it darker.

This is just a very general interpretation, and I recommend some Web searches - I'm sure you'll find very extensive explanations.

In general, if you're doing B&W shooting outdoors in clear weather with blue skies, a yellow filter is a must - otherwise the blue skies will be washed out (white). Personally, for emphasizing white clouds on the blue sky, I often use orange filter - it's somewhere between yellow and red filter in effect.

Attached is the photo of the filter table on the back of my Flexaret.

Hope this helps a bit.

Merry Christmas!!!
 
I generally use a yellow filter, although I am now also experimenting with red on some lenses. Red filters can be hard to find, I have been looking for a 58mm multi-coated red for months.

I use the yellow to increase contrast, especially with older lenses that aren't as contrasty as modern ones. You lose a stop or a 1/2 stop but it's worth it IMO.
 
I normally use yellow, orange and red filters depending upon the situation. Because filters vary between manufacturers as far as exposure compensation goes, I usually take a normal reading with a hand-held meter and then hold the filter in front of the meter to see what the difference is. For a rangefinder such as the Bessa cameras, the TTL reading will automatically compensate. For others, it's a mental process.

Leitz has always explained filters this way: They never "add" anything.... they only subtract! Essentially, as already explained, they hold back - subtract - the color they are. Yellow will give slightly darker skies and whiter clouds. Orange increases the effect and red even more than orange. A green filter will lighten grass and leaves. There's a fellow over on the Leica Forum who is very fond of his green filter and sometimes, IMO, the photograph would be better without it. He is, however, an outstanding photographer with a keen eye for a picture.

Walker
 
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Here's an example of B&W filter use.
I think it was an orange filter, with 2 stops compensation. Really adds to the atmosphere - makes the skies look dramatic, and greatly emphasizes the clouds. Film was Efke R100 (120 format, shot with a Rolleiflex T). Without the filter, the skies would be washed out, bleak and almost completely white. Quite a difference.
Gordon, for similar effect you might try the G3 filter - it's not as strong as orange, but will significantly improve the skies. One word of warning, though: the sky has to be blue (clear) if you want to render it darker. For grey, overcast and cloudy weather, the filters can't do much.
In short, dark yellow or orange filter is a must if you want those "fluffy" clouds to stand out.

Denis
 
So lets stick with planes and filters and this one came from another forum - I know not where or who - so my sincere apologies to the original poster because I cannot attribute the source.
 
peter_n said:
I generally use a yellow filter, although I am now also experimenting with red on some lenses. Red filters can be hard to find, I have been looking for a 58mm multi-coated red for months.

I use the yellow to increase contrast, especially with older lenses that aren't as contrasty as modern ones. You lose a stop or a 1/2 stop but it's worth it IMO.

I agree. I rarley shoot B/W without my deep yellow (#15) filter. And if I'm doing any scenic work, I always have yellow, blue, orange, green and red filter's nearby.

Russ
 
with any color filter you will get a different x factor everytime.

for instance, with a yellow filter if you read the light of a blue surface you will probably get more than one fstop difference, but if you read a yellow surface you wont eaven get 0,5 stop difference, maybe none.

This is because a yellow filter 'filters' away parts of the color spectrum, in this case blue is heavily reduced, blue cyan violet. bluish green are somewhat reduced while green are neutral or adatated. magenta and deep red are too almost neutral while red light red and orange are adjatated. deep yellow and yellow almost dont get any reduction at all.

so you should follow the filter instruction and open a fstop if it says so. But if you seek some special effect you may want to change this 'guidenumber'

TEITUR
 
I'm seeing red...

I'm seeing red...

I generally use a yellow filter, although I am now also experimenting with red on some lenses. Red filters can be hard to find, I have been looking for a 58mm multi-coated red for months.

I use the yellow to increase contrast, especially with older lenses that aren't as contrasty as modern ones. You lose a stop or a 1/2 stop but it's worth it IMO.


peter_n,

I might happen to have the red filter you're looking for...
It's a "Vivitar Red 58mm 25A" in what appears to be terrific condition...black with chrome trim...
Drop me a PM if this is something you may want...
 
Skies, foliage and skin tones will appear more natural using a yellow-green (X0) filter.
IMO as an everyday general purpose filter it is preferable to the old standby yellow (K2).

Chris
 
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