Justin Low
J for Justin
Hi!
I just cleaned a Summilux 50/1.4, the first version from 1959.
Surprisingly, it was very easy to access all the glass elements, as well as the helical.
I've just tested it on my R-D1, and it's tack-sharp!
Pretty easy fix, and expect a 'tutorial' soon. Thanks!
Tutorial, copied from my website:
I bought a Summilux 50mm f/1.4, first-generation in chrome, circa 1959–61, and it had a fair bit of fungus in it. The price was pretty reasonable, and the lens looked simple to disassemble, so here we are.
Tools Needed
Spanner wrench (with flat tips)
A pair of fine-tipped tweezers
Removing the optical unit
The optics can be separated from the focusing mount by gripping the aperture ring and unscrewing it. This is represented in the picture below by the lower line in red.
This should be the result (left: focusing mount, right: optical unit):
Another view (left: focusing mount, right: optical unit):
Separating the optical unit into forward and rear sections
With reference to upper line in the second picture, grip the front of the lens (where the hood mounts), and unscrew the front section.
Result (left: rear section and aperture mechanism, right: front section):
Another view (left: rear section and aperture mechanism, right: front section; note fungus-marred rear element):
And another ( (left: rear section and aperture mechanism, right: front section; note the thin spacer ring on the front section):
Disassembling the front section
You will need to use the spanner wrench to remove the retaining ring. Under that retaining ring will be a very thin, flat, black ring. This helps to keep the retaining ring from contacting the glass elements directly.
You will need to use your pair of tweezers to lift and remove this ring. Slip one side under the ring, and try to lift it away from the glass. It's a little hard to explain, but you should be trying to flex the ring away from the screw threads so that it 'springs' out.
After that is done, you will be able to lift out the second and third elements (cemented group). I found it helpful to gently tap the metal edge to 'dislodge' the group and then to let it 'fall' out of the mount, resulting in (from left: retaining ring, thin black ring, elements 2/3, rest of front section with element 1):
Another view (note the shape of the second element—wow!):
Disassembling the rear section
Use your spanner wrench to unscrew the retaining ring at the rear-end of this section.
You should be able to lift the seventh and sixth elements out without much trouble. If they are tight, a gentle tap to the metal edge will be helpful.
I did not manage to remove the fourth and fifth elements (cemented group), but for my purposes did not need to.
Result (from left: retaining ring, element 7, element 6, rest of rear section with element 4/5 and aperture mechanism):
Another view:
Well, and that's it! I managed to clean most of the fungus, although the rear element was marred by fungus action, and causes some softness at f/1.4 (mostly disappears by f/2, completely gone by f/2.8).
Reassembly
Reassembly is simply following the steps above in reverse. There aren't any tricky points, but ensure the elements are all seated properly.
You are done!
I also took the time to repaint the markings on the lens, and you can see they look a lot better now:
The procedure may be simple, but be very careful not to damage the elements or their coatings. The internal coatings on this lens are reputed to be rather soft, so be very gentle when cleaning.
Always be sure that the screw threads aligned properly during reassembly—you don't want to cross thread them.
Please feel free to contact me if you need help with these instructions. Lastly, don't blame me if you mess up your lens.
I just cleaned a Summilux 50/1.4, the first version from 1959.
Surprisingly, it was very easy to access all the glass elements, as well as the helical.
I've just tested it on my R-D1, and it's tack-sharp!
Pretty easy fix, and expect a 'tutorial' soon. Thanks!
Tutorial, copied from my website:
I bought a Summilux 50mm f/1.4, first-generation in chrome, circa 1959–61, and it had a fair bit of fungus in it. The price was pretty reasonable, and the lens looked simple to disassemble, so here we are.

Tools Needed
Spanner wrench (with flat tips)
A pair of fine-tipped tweezers
Removing the optical unit
The optics can be separated from the focusing mount by gripping the aperture ring and unscrewing it. This is represented in the picture below by the lower line in red.

This should be the result (left: focusing mount, right: optical unit):

Another view (left: focusing mount, right: optical unit):

Separating the optical unit into forward and rear sections
With reference to upper line in the second picture, grip the front of the lens (where the hood mounts), and unscrew the front section.
Result (left: rear section and aperture mechanism, right: front section):

Another view (left: rear section and aperture mechanism, right: front section; note fungus-marred rear element):

And another ( (left: rear section and aperture mechanism, right: front section; note the thin spacer ring on the front section):

Disassembling the front section
You will need to use the spanner wrench to remove the retaining ring. Under that retaining ring will be a very thin, flat, black ring. This helps to keep the retaining ring from contacting the glass elements directly.
You will need to use your pair of tweezers to lift and remove this ring. Slip one side under the ring, and try to lift it away from the glass. It's a little hard to explain, but you should be trying to flex the ring away from the screw threads so that it 'springs' out.
After that is done, you will be able to lift out the second and third elements (cemented group). I found it helpful to gently tap the metal edge to 'dislodge' the group and then to let it 'fall' out of the mount, resulting in (from left: retaining ring, thin black ring, elements 2/3, rest of front section with element 1):

Another view (note the shape of the second element—wow!):

Disassembling the rear section
Use your spanner wrench to unscrew the retaining ring at the rear-end of this section.
You should be able to lift the seventh and sixth elements out without much trouble. If they are tight, a gentle tap to the metal edge will be helpful.
I did not manage to remove the fourth and fifth elements (cemented group), but for my purposes did not need to.
Result (from left: retaining ring, element 7, element 6, rest of rear section with element 4/5 and aperture mechanism):

Another view:

Well, and that's it! I managed to clean most of the fungus, although the rear element was marred by fungus action, and causes some softness at f/1.4 (mostly disappears by f/2, completely gone by f/2.8).
Reassembly
Reassembly is simply following the steps above in reverse. There aren't any tricky points, but ensure the elements are all seated properly.
You are done!
I also took the time to repaint the markings on the lens, and you can see they look a lot better now:

The procedure may be simple, but be very careful not to damage the elements or their coatings. The internal coatings on this lens are reputed to be rather soft, so be very gentle when cleaning.
Always be sure that the screw threads aligned properly during reassembly—you don't want to cross thread them.
Please feel free to contact me if you need help with these instructions. Lastly, don't blame me if you mess up your lens.
Last edited:
Justin Low
J for Justin
Pictures added. Write-up to follow soon.
pau3
Well-known
You are a brave man, Justin Low!
Pau
Pau
radiocemetery
Well-known
Your pictures alone have inspired me to clean my work bench! 
The tutorial will be nice. I'll be looking for it!
ferider
Veteran
Very nice, Justin - Thanks for posting this.
How do you clean the soft-coated elements ?
Thanks,
Roland.
How do you clean the soft-coated elements ?
Thanks,
Roland.
Justin Low
J for Justin
Coming soon, Brian, very soon. 
Roland, very gently; I used a high quality facial tissue, moistened with a little bit of Windex, and gingerly wiped the glass. I did not apply any additional pressure. All that after dusting the glass, though.
I would not recommend using Q-tips, and Eclipse fluid was a bit problematic. I finished off with a final wipe using vodka.
Roland, very gently; I used a high quality facial tissue, moistened with a little bit of Windex, and gingerly wiped the glass. I did not apply any additional pressure. All that after dusting the glass, though.
I would not recommend using Q-tips, and Eclipse fluid was a bit problematic. I finished off with a final wipe using vodka.
ferider
Veteran
I finished off with a final wipe using vodka.
Ahh ... One more reason to try it out
Thanks, Justin,
Roland.
Justin Low
J for Justin
Text is ready, have updated my original post, and here's the original address:
http://justinlow.com/articles/repair-leica-summilux-5014
Comments/suggestions are most welcome. Fire away!
Incidentally, the photos are of reassembly. At that point I had already cleaned the elements. The rear element still leaves a bit to be desired. I don't suppose anyone has a spare one?
http://justinlow.com/articles/repair-leica-summilux-5014
Comments/suggestions are most welcome. Fire away!
Incidentally, the photos are of reassembly. At that point I had already cleaned the elements. The rear element still leaves a bit to be desired. I don't suppose anyone has a spare one?
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radiocemetery
Well-known
Nicely done Justin. Good explanation and excellent photos.
Steve West
Steve West
Thankyou! I'm sure the Summarit comes apart in about the same way.
ocean7
DSLR Defector
Wow I am most impressed Justin. This is definitely a bookmark! Any chance you would help others who are not so brave for a small fee 
MikeL
Go Fish
Thankyou! I'm sure the Summarit comes apart in about the same way.
Brian, wherever you are, the Summarit just requires a pin to hold the outer and inner sleeves together. That allows you to unscrew the optical unit from the inner sleeve. I cleaned mine last week.
jmkelly
rangefinder user
Well, I bought a junker Summilux off eBay. And it ain't coming apart. I may boil it in WD-40 and see what happens. Let y'all know how it goes.
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