btgc
Veteran
I'll not be original here. Some months ago I got Lynx 14 with working shutter, so finally I'm breathing life into it. This are more documentary remarks, because all of this has been described before me and much better, I believe.
First I though I'll replace with lightseals only plus RF glass cleaning, but...there's point I'll return later. I noticed aperture ring sometimes kind of drags, though aperture opened and closed. Later in closer inspection I noticed on lens inner surface whitish deposit, little bit of 2x3mm and seemed like spider web. So I hadn't choice.
Lens rim were very slightly dented, I could screw in lens hood but with some fiddling. Happily lens nameplate come off easily. To remove front element, I applied very small amount of lighter fluid (further LF) aound element and let it stay for day or two, then it came out nicely without special tools.
Whitish residue cleaned up with vinegar and I'll watch lens. While opened, also cleaned aperture blades by "lazy paper strips method", cleaned out dust from aperture ring (there's also internal slice of metal for ISO setting), took off old grease from speed ring assembly which goes into aperture ring.
Shutters work dry, they say, though I applied very thin layer of molibden grease on that connection, material even looks like hard graphite or so, very much like bearing.
Straightened dent on lens rim, it can not be done on camera - it's not foil-like rim as on Electro, it's thick and resists well so straightening without removal draws potential problems either with internals or front element.
Shutter mechanism seems very clean and it work without a hick so I left it working.
Now comes funny part. Cleaning narrow gap between barrel and shutter cup, small piece of cotton bud fell down, right where aperture selection lives. I little panicked and released focus ring to see that it doesn't allows access (I knew it, but nerves, nerves). Scene of disassembled shutter quicly flew before my eyes and as it happens in stressful situations, mind generated easy fix - I sucked air by mouth from that gap and voila - white threads of bud showed up, then I took out bud with curved wire. If it's working, don't fix it ! Now I had lens needing focus adjustment, well, I haven't did this before, nice it happens now.
After putting lens together I noticed how SMOOOOTH aperture ring is now. Lens is big? Yes. Bulky ? No. It works like big powerful car with pneumatic suspension and all that power-stuff. I start feeling what 14 means. It's not only faster glass (over 5000, I mean, or KAS2), it's slightly different breed.
On arrival I also noticed that meter needle isn't projected in VF. 5000 does. Unglued mirror, we have read. Sure, diagonal strip near meter were missing but in VF there were no even traces of glue. Were mirrow in VF fastened by other means? Time ago I wondered why S. Gandy writes "Metering is indicated in the finder OR the top plate". Notice OR. But hey, manual suggests matching needle in VF or on top plate, pictures show both.
Who can comment on this - do 14 were manufactured with either top plate or VF meter display or I'm stirring water?
Anyway, I glued pieces of metallic baking foil (watch shiny side) and now reading project in VF. Will I use meter? Who knows, for a while seems that with mercury cell readings match handheld meter.
So now I need to find proper substitute for ground glass to adjust focus. All semitransparent tapes, sheets and what else I found home have coarse structure which prevents seeing details. So I'll look for something better and for magnifying glass, too.
What's next? Focus, RF adjustment if any, cleaning RF glass, light seals and...hope to post pics if any nice will come out.
Returning to issue mentioned before. 14 lied under my table about two months, I inspected it, decided what will need work, even purchased lens hood before even using it. But I felt disconnected from it. When I started to work, I immediately felt increasing contact with camera, I'll be very pathetic now, saying it's like taking care of kid. When I play with daughter I discover what she's is like, what she likes, what misses and what could be done differently. Same here - now I feel that camera is truly becoming mine. Previous life has ended and now another begins, with me. Similar feelings were with any other camera I've fixed/serviced and started to use. Even Petri 7 which I don't use much, responds to me with some inner glow. Well, maybe I'm just worse variety of gear-o-holic?
First I though I'll replace with lightseals only plus RF glass cleaning, but...there's point I'll return later. I noticed aperture ring sometimes kind of drags, though aperture opened and closed. Later in closer inspection I noticed on lens inner surface whitish deposit, little bit of 2x3mm and seemed like spider web. So I hadn't choice.
Lens rim were very slightly dented, I could screw in lens hood but with some fiddling. Happily lens nameplate come off easily. To remove front element, I applied very small amount of lighter fluid (further LF) aound element and let it stay for day or two, then it came out nicely without special tools.
Whitish residue cleaned up with vinegar and I'll watch lens. While opened, also cleaned aperture blades by "lazy paper strips method", cleaned out dust from aperture ring (there's also internal slice of metal for ISO setting), took off old grease from speed ring assembly which goes into aperture ring.
Shutters work dry, they say, though I applied very thin layer of molibden grease on that connection, material even looks like hard graphite or so, very much like bearing.
Straightened dent on lens rim, it can not be done on camera - it's not foil-like rim as on Electro, it's thick and resists well so straightening without removal draws potential problems either with internals or front element.
Shutter mechanism seems very clean and it work without a hick so I left it working.
Now comes funny part. Cleaning narrow gap between barrel and shutter cup, small piece of cotton bud fell down, right where aperture selection lives. I little panicked and released focus ring to see that it doesn't allows access (I knew it, but nerves, nerves). Scene of disassembled shutter quicly flew before my eyes and as it happens in stressful situations, mind generated easy fix - I sucked air by mouth from that gap and voila - white threads of bud showed up, then I took out bud with curved wire. If it's working, don't fix it ! Now I had lens needing focus adjustment, well, I haven't did this before, nice it happens now.
After putting lens together I noticed how SMOOOOTH aperture ring is now. Lens is big? Yes. Bulky ? No. It works like big powerful car with pneumatic suspension and all that power-stuff. I start feeling what 14 means. It's not only faster glass (over 5000, I mean, or KAS2), it's slightly different breed.
On arrival I also noticed that meter needle isn't projected in VF. 5000 does. Unglued mirror, we have read. Sure, diagonal strip near meter were missing but in VF there were no even traces of glue. Were mirrow in VF fastened by other means? Time ago I wondered why S. Gandy writes "Metering is indicated in the finder OR the top plate". Notice OR. But hey, manual suggests matching needle in VF or on top plate, pictures show both.
Who can comment on this - do 14 were manufactured with either top plate or VF meter display or I'm stirring water?
Anyway, I glued pieces of metallic baking foil (watch shiny side) and now reading project in VF. Will I use meter? Who knows, for a while seems that with mercury cell readings match handheld meter.
So now I need to find proper substitute for ground glass to adjust focus. All semitransparent tapes, sheets and what else I found home have coarse structure which prevents seeing details. So I'll look for something better and for magnifying glass, too.
What's next? Focus, RF adjustment if any, cleaning RF glass, light seals and...hope to post pics if any nice will come out.
Returning to issue mentioned before. 14 lied under my table about two months, I inspected it, decided what will need work, even purchased lens hood before even using it. But I felt disconnected from it. When I started to work, I immediately felt increasing contact with camera, I'll be very pathetic now, saying it's like taking care of kid. When I play with daughter I discover what she's is like, what she likes, what misses and what could be done differently. Same here - now I feel that camera is truly becoming mine. Previous life has ended and now another begins, with me. Similar feelings were with any other camera I've fixed/serviced and started to use. Even Petri 7 which I don't use much, responds to me with some inner glow. Well, maybe I'm just worse variety of gear-o-holic?
Last edited:
oftheherd
Veteran
Sounds like a lot of work. I envy you your ability to do so. Hope all works well.
zuikologist
.........................
I look forward to seeing the camera and images from it. It is a labour of love.
Last edited:
The Lynx 14 has a mirror so that you can see the meter readout in the viewfinder. It probably had a double-sticky strip on the mirror. I made a replacement for one sold long ago, a reflective piece of metal.
And yes, very normal to get attached to a camera or lens after restoring it.
And yes, very normal to get attached to a camera or lens after restoring it.
squirrel$$$bandit
Veteran
Just out of curiosity, Brian...there are quite a few fixed-lens RF's with really nice lenses, this one included. Have you ever tried detaching one from an otherwise broken camera and adapting it as M or LTM?
No- I've not done that "yet". The built in shutter/aperture mechanism is big. The closest I've done so far is a Kodak Anastigmat Special with shutter, placed into a Nikon S-Mount.
Ken Smith
Why yes Ma'am - it folds
Brian - is it possible to mount the Yashica lens, like that from a G series, into a pre-existing LTM housing - say, like a Jupiter 3 or such?
Ken
Ken
Bill58
Native Texan
Funny you'd ask that--I was just thinking of the same thing last nite. I'd like to put a 50/1.7 lens from a GTN in an LTM mount. Isn't there a Japanese guy who does these kind of things? He probably won't do business w/ us Westerners, but maybe Brian can.
btgc
Veteran
Thanks all for headups, I've got thin plastic sheet and right now bought loupe - I don't see how to peep proper focus on 24x36 without maqnification.
I use a 15x loupe to set the focus.
You can see a picture of it on the J-3 repair instructions on Kim's website, last page:
http://pentax-manuals.com/repairs/j3service.pdf
You can see a picture of it on the J-3 repair instructions on Kim's website, last page:
http://pentax-manuals.com/repairs/j3service.pdf
btgc
Veteran
huh...15x loupe....seems that 2x-3x is only I can get fast locally, 30x can be ordered. I already suspected that 2x will be too weak.
Brian, thanks for link, got ideas.
Brian, thanks for link, got ideas.
Last edited:
btgc
Veteran
At home stared at screen thru that 2x loupe - very good learning experience I'm going to order jewellers 30x loupe, should work, right ?
I'm going to order jewellers 30x loupe, should work, right ?
It "should" work, but might be too dark for use. 30x is a lot of magnification. The loupe that I use has a flat glass front, at the point of focus. It has the advantage of acting as a pressure plate for the film strip. Check Edmunds and some other ScientificSupply stores.
btgc
Veteran
From one extreme to another...maybe I should go out for pictures with any other camera.
Right, your loupe is different, I see similar construction on ebay. I'll check first locally. Regarding flattening screen with loupe - I got one not curving like film, it's flat.
When I think bout judging focus, I realize that even on SLR I focus either by scale or by split image, I just haven't used into seeing sharpness on screen...something to learn again.
Right, your loupe is different, I see similar construction on ebay. I'll check first locally. Regarding flattening screen with loupe - I got one not curving like film, it's flat.
When I think bout judging focus, I realize that even on SLR I focus either by scale or by split image, I just haven't used into seeing sharpness on screen...something to learn again.
btgc
Veteran
status update
status update
So far no any 15x loupe found locally, some shops are willing to order it . I can do it myself. Choices are - order one from HK (takes time to arrive) and visit local repairman who is interested in my adventures with vintage cameras, use his loupe and have nice discussion over some beer (after focus is adjusted, sure).
Probably I need to order loupe anyway as it can be useful for other applications too. In the end, I can stare at negatives
status update
So far no any 15x loupe found locally, some shops are willing to order it . I can do it myself. Choices are - order one from HK (takes time to arrive) and visit local repairman who is interested in my adventures with vintage cameras, use his loupe and have nice discussion over some beer (after focus is adjusted, sure).
Probably I need to order loupe anyway as it can be useful for other applications too. In the end, I can stare at negatives
btgc
Veteran
Finally after sequence of events I've got back to 14. Adjusted focus improperly (at 1m distance not infinity) using 50mm SLR lens.
First, I'm offering my focus test - please express your opinion if you would continue with focus adjustment.
Focus distance is 1m (to film plane) to Yashica shade box, each next box on left is +1cm and each on right -1cm. No sharpening. ISO200 film, 1/60@1.4
http://www.flickr.com/photos/17767363@N00/2845017479/ (click all sizes) .... haven't got how to link fullsize pics from RFF yet...
I just realized that this particular frame I needed to scan at bigger resolution...so this is "until then".
In fact pics uploaded on RFF look bit softer...but...let's put this aside for a while.
Hey, I really need more detailed scan of this...
For a while, I broke and uploaded three test shots
http://flickr.com/photos/17767363@N00/2845050701/
http://flickr.com/photos/17767363@N00/2845050601/
http://flickr.com/photos/17767363@N00/2845050521/
UPD2: 4000dpi scan of focus test is coming soon...
First, I'm offering my focus test - please express your opinion if you would continue with focus adjustment.
Focus distance is 1m (to film plane) to Yashica shade box, each next box on left is +1cm and each on right -1cm. No sharpening. ISO200 film, 1/60@1.4
http://www.flickr.com/photos/17767363@N00/2845017479/ (click all sizes) .... haven't got how to link fullsize pics from RFF yet...
I just realized that this particular frame I needed to scan at bigger resolution...so this is "until then".
In fact pics uploaded on RFF look bit softer...but...let's put this aside for a while.
Hey, I really need more detailed scan of this...
For a while, I broke and uploaded three test shots
http://flickr.com/photos/17767363@N00/2845050701/
http://flickr.com/photos/17767363@N00/2845050601/
http://flickr.com/photos/17767363@N00/2845050521/
UPD2: 4000dpi scan of focus test is coming soon...
Last edited:
btgc
Veteran
Flickred test shot at bigger dpi.
all targets (hood box is at 1m, left each next +1cm, on right each next -1cm) http://www.flickr.com/photos/17767363@N00/2848544750/
Now I realize that same targets should be shot for each step to have consistent image for comparison.
And only central part, which is at 1m distance
http://www.flickr.com/photos/17767363@N00/2848544754/in/photostream/
Please your opinions....not lens itself, how I've adjusted it.
UPD1: scanned without ICE, no USM applied (just to clarify)
all targets (hood box is at 1m, left each next +1cm, on right each next -1cm) http://www.flickr.com/photos/17767363@N00/2848544750/
Now I realize that same targets should be shot for each step to have consistent image for comparison.
And only central part, which is at 1m distance
http://www.flickr.com/photos/17767363@N00/2848544754/in/photostream/
Please your opinions....not lens itself, how I've adjusted it.
UPD1: scanned without ICE, no USM applied (just to clarify)
Last edited: