gdi
Veteran
It is quite a bit easier to mix up than E-6 - but I'm not sure if I am willing to switch totally to negative film. I actually find slides easier to scan, but the DR of the print film is very attractive.
Anyone else here doing C-41 at home? What compells you to do so? For me it is really the convenience of doing it at home, due to the lack of labs doing 120/C-41.
Here are a couple from my first rolls, Portra 160VC, Mamiya 7II...
Anyone else here doing C-41 at home? What compells you to do so? For me it is really the convenience of doing it at home, due to the lack of labs doing 120/C-41.
Here are a couple from my first rolls, Portra 160VC, Mamiya 7II...


crawdiddy
qu'est-ce que c'est?
Nice job. I suppose the film processing is a bit easier than printing? I didn't know anyone processed C-41 at home.
wayneb
Established
wow those look really nice! colors on the boats a bit saturated, but that's why it's called VC. looks very crisp and clean though. what resources if any online did you use to find out how?
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Well, congratulations are due! I wish I could do it... although, on the other hand, if I could, I don't think I'd do it.
Does it require precise temperatures?
Do you need a bleach bath?
How many steps are involved?
Did you use a developing kit from Freestyle, or some such store?
Did you scan your negatives?
Let us know. Inquisitive minds...
And, again, congratulations on a well done job!
Does it require precise temperatures?
Do you need a bleach bath?
How many steps are involved?
Did you use a developing kit from Freestyle, or some such store?
Did you scan your negatives?
Let us know. Inquisitive minds...
And, again, congratulations on a well done job!
swoop
Well-known
You do this by hand or with a processor?
ItsReallyDarren
That's really me
Ive seen kits for home C-41 processing but always shyed away because the high temperature scare me.
How was the development process? Is good ventilation a must for C-41 and E-6?
The chemicals smells from photo labs drives me nuts after Ive been in there too long.
How was the development process? Is good ventilation a must for C-41 and E-6?
The chemicals smells from photo labs drives me nuts after Ive been in there too long.
gdi
Veteran
Thanks for the comments - here are some specifics...
I cheat with all development and use a small PhotoTherm Sidekick processor that was retire from a small lab. I The unit is programmed for a 4 step C-41 process, 6 step E-6 process and B&W. Mix chems, load film, push a couple of buttons and go do something else for a 1/2 hour, then hang them to dry...
I used Kodak chemicals bought separately in concentrate for 1 gallon - 3Part Dev, Bleach, Fixer and Stabilizer. The bleach is premixed so it is really easy. E-6 is a 7 Step and, accordingly more tedious to mix. The proper ingredients to buy can be found in this thread - http://photo.net/film-and-processing-forum/00Lu65
I do this in my "barn" (really a 3 car garage) with 2 of the big doors open and a small fan usually running to keep the air moving. It really doesn't smell much. I am scanning with a Nikon 9000.
BTW, I noticed a bit of cyan cast in some scans - this is where Negs are difficult. With slides I can check color on the light table, now I have to see if it was the dev or the scanning at fault!
I cheat with all development and use a small PhotoTherm Sidekick processor that was retire from a small lab. I The unit is programmed for a 4 step C-41 process, 6 step E-6 process and B&W. Mix chems, load film, push a couple of buttons and go do something else for a 1/2 hour, then hang them to dry...
I used Kodak chemicals bought separately in concentrate for 1 gallon - 3Part Dev, Bleach, Fixer and Stabilizer. The bleach is premixed so it is really easy. E-6 is a 7 Step and, accordingly more tedious to mix. The proper ingredients to buy can be found in this thread - http://photo.net/film-and-processing-forum/00Lu65
I do this in my "barn" (really a 3 car garage) with 2 of the big doors open and a small fan usually running to keep the air moving. It really doesn't smell much. I am scanning with a Nikon 9000.
BTW, I noticed a bit of cyan cast in some scans - this is where Negs are difficult. With slides I can check color on the light table, now I have to see if it was the dev or the scanning at fault!
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squirrel$$$bandit
Veteran
Those look great--I'm really impressed that somebody is actually doing this.
My supermarket does 120 C-41...I'm kind of surprised it's hard to find a lab for it...
My supermarket does 120 C-41...I'm kind of surprised it's hard to find a lab for it...
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
Wonderful, maybe you'll eventually start a small niche business to offset the cost of running that processor 
Back to the pictures, yes, I see a cyan cast. You may be able to compare the scans from other lab processors to determine whether it's a dev or scanning problem.
Back to the pictures, yes, I see a cyan cast. You may be able to compare the scans from other lab processors to determine whether it's a dev or scanning problem.
sienarot
Well-known
Congrats! I, myself, just got into developing c41 last weekend. It certainly wasn't as difficult as some people say it to be. But then again, I'm wondering if the people who say it's hard to do are just armchair experts who haven't actually tried it out.
Unlike yourself, I do not have a processor and do it by hand, and using a 3 bath kit from Freestyle. The biggest (pleasant) surprise for me was that it wasn't as temperature intensive as I originally perceived it to be. The only temperature/time critical part was the first bath: 102F (39C) for 3.5 minutes. The entire process for me, from the time I loaded the spool to the time I hung it up to dry, took about 15 minutes. Much faster than any BW developing I've ever done.
I highly urge anyone whose done black and white but have always wanted to do C41 but were afraid to to try it out.
Unlike yourself, I do not have a processor and do it by hand, and using a 3 bath kit from Freestyle. The biggest (pleasant) surprise for me was that it wasn't as temperature intensive as I originally perceived it to be. The only temperature/time critical part was the first bath: 102F (39C) for 3.5 minutes. The entire process for me, from the time I loaded the spool to the time I hung it up to dry, took about 15 minutes. Much faster than any BW developing I've ever done.
I highly urge anyone whose done black and white but have always wanted to do C41 but were afraid to to try it out.
gdi
Veteran
Thanks again for the comments and its good to see I am not the only one wacky enough to do C41! (Yes, Mabelsound, I would give it up if my supermarket processed 120!)
Anyway I tweaked my scanning settings a bit and I think i am good to go. Here is another one of the shots - I think the color balance looks better now, no?
Anyway I tweaked my scanning settings a bit and I think i am good to go. Here is another one of the shots - I think the color balance looks better now, no?

charjohncarter
Veteran
It looks to me, that there is another reason to do it at home: quality.
ItsReallyDarren
That's really me
Very impressive setup you've got running, with just as impressive results!
Borghesia
Well-known
C41 is indeed very easy to do. The most important thing is to keep the bath at the right temperature. If you invest in a precise (digital) thermometer it's a piece of cake.
I have this (highly recommended) thermometer and it gives me the confidence to do C41 in a blink.
http://www.phototec.de/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1086
I have this (highly recommended) thermometer and it gives me the confidence to do C41 in a blink.
http://www.phototec.de/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1086
Ronald M
Veteran
I do it in a JOBO processor or a Nikkor stainless tank. Use a waterbath and have a gallon of hot water to add as the temp falls i9f you use the Nikkor tank ( not all at one time). Put the water bath in a tray on a piece of styrofoam to act as insulation or just use another upside down tray. A countertop really sucks the heat out.
Only the developer step is super critical. The rest have an easy tolerence.
Prewarm the tank and reel and film so you do not cool the developer as it is added.
Only the developer step is super critical. The rest have an easy tolerence.
Prewarm the tank and reel and film so you do not cool the developer as it is added.
gdi
Veteran
Ok for you guys doing C-41...
Is the main reason because you do 120/220 etc. and lab processing takes a long time? Or...
Is the main reason because you do 120/220 etc. and lab processing takes a long time? Or...
Borghesia
Well-known
My reason for do-it-yourself C41 is that I can develop a color film when I like to do so.
Independent of closing hours and travel times back and forth.
Independent of closing hours and travel times back and forth.
sienarot
Well-known
Ok for you guys doing C-41...
Is the main reason because you do 120/220 etc. and lab processing takes a long time? Or...
I've been wanting to do C41 myself for a couple of reasons. First, I just wanted to try it out and see what it was like. Secondly, I've been getting extremely annoyed with my regular lab's poor level of service. I could take it to another lab, but my only alternatives are Walmart, Costco, and other 1 hour labs. However, what really pushed me to do it was because I recently got into 4x5 and developing costs per sheet can get quite expensive. Now, if I can find some kits or formulas for E-6, then I'm all set!
squirrel$$$bandit
Veteran
Man, I'm tempted now.
gdi
Veteran
It looks to me, that there is another reason to do it at home: quality.
That is definitely true! No scratched negs - but I still have dust!
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