Miers
Miers
Good Day,
New chum here!I enjoy the chat on this site.
I have a question about the rear focusing hole on the 11d.I understand if a camera has this hole it is focused for one specific lens.Now... if I use a more modern lens...will it focus o.k.?
I am thinking of buying what looks like a sound camera but I was concerned about this question.
Thanks
Miers
New chum here!I enjoy the chat on this site.
I have a question about the rear focusing hole on the 11d.I understand if a camera has this hole it is focused for one specific lens.Now... if I use a more modern lens...will it focus o.k.?
I am thinking of buying what looks like a sound camera but I was concerned about this question.
Thanks
Miers
Jerevan
Recycled User
If the camera body has a "0" in the 12 o'clock position on the lens bayonet, it can be used with any lens. Otherwise the lens you buy has to be matched to the body. A repairman (or woman) can do this calibration.
Miers
Miers
Leica rear focus hole
Leica rear focus hole
Thank you for that.I will check to see.The lens on the body doesnt look too good
Thanks
Miers
Leica rear focus hole
Thank you for that.I will check to see.The lens on the body doesnt look too good
Thanks
Miers
Miers
Miers
Leica rear focus window
Leica rear focus window
Well ...I checked. And yes it has the o on the flange at 12 o clock.
Thanks again
Miers
Leica rear focus window
Well ...I checked. And yes it has the o on the flange at 12 o clock.
Thanks again
Miers
john neal
fallor ergo sum
Miers,
I have one like that from 1932, and it's one of my favourite bodies. I will normally pick up the MP and the II when i go out shooting. You should get good results with any more modern lens designed for the standardised Leica mount (that's whet the ")" on the mount means). I use: Elmar , Summar, Summitar & Nikkor 50mm, CV 25 & 35mm, Jupiter 35mm, 85mm & 135mm, Canon 25mm and 50mm and all of them work just fine. Just make sure the shutter runs ok & I'm sure you will love it
I have one like that from 1932, and it's one of my favourite bodies. I will normally pick up the MP and the II when i go out shooting. You should get good results with any more modern lens designed for the standardised Leica mount (that's whet the ")" on the mount means). I use: Elmar , Summar, Summitar & Nikkor 50mm, CV 25 & 35mm, Jupiter 35mm, 85mm & 135mm, Canon 25mm and 50mm and all of them work just fine. Just make sure the shutter runs ok & I'm sure you will love it
splaash
Member
I found one on ebay asking 400€ start price black body is that not a bit expensive?
What sort of price are 11D bodies? Is it better than a 111 or 111G?
edit:I have a FED (Leica 111) and Keiv with leitz 80mm,jupiter 35mm/85mm & f2 50mm
AND Foca *,**,*** & universal with thumb wind
What sort of price are 11D bodies? Is it better than a 111 or 111G?
edit:I have a FED (Leica 111) and Keiv with leitz 80mm,jupiter 35mm/85mm & f2 50mm
AND Foca *,**,*** & universal with thumb wind
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Luddite Frank
Well-known
Splaash,
The Leica II ( referred to in some books as model D ) was introduced in 1932 as Leitz's first 35 mm camera with an integral, coupled rangefinder. It was an advancement over the Leica Standard and Model I cameras.
It was joined by the Leica III in 1933 which added "slow" shutter speeds from 1 sec to 1/20 sec via a knob on the front of the body.
Alpha suffixes identified subsequent refinements of all models of thread-mount Leica ( I, II, and III ).
The -a suffix models added a top-shutter speed of 1/1000.
The -b suffix placed the Viewfinder and Rangefinder windows right next to each other.
The -c suffix models had an all-new body made from an aluminum casting, offering greater stregnth and stability, plus improvements to the shutter mechanism.
The -f-suffix models were the first Leicas to offer integral flash synchronisation, and came in two flavors: "black-dial" and "red-dial" (referring the the flash sync).
The III-g was the last, and many believe the best, refinement of the thread-mount Leica: it featured a larger & brighter viewfinder window (but still two separate eyepieces for VF and RF), as well as bright framelines w/ parallax compensation when focusing for the 50mm and 90 mm lenses. And a built-in self-timer. And flash sync was now automatic, no more fussy sync dial and guide-book.
The III-g is pricey, with decent bodies averaging $700-$900 USD, up to $1,200-$1,500 (or more )with a lens... many argue that with even with all the improved features, it's still not as good a camera as the M-3, for nearly the same cost.
The III variants are good cameras, some late -c and early -f models tend to have issues with poor chrome and deteriorating shutter curtains, due to materials issues following WW II. If you don't have a need for the slow-speeds below 1/20 second, then you probably don't "need" a III.
The II are the basic LTM camera w/o the slow speeds. They still have "Time" and "Bulb" settings, and the -f models are flash-synched.
The black-paint versions usually bring more money, especially if the paint is in good to excellent condition...
Black-paint cameras or very early serial numbers that were sent-back to be upgraded aside, Model II generally run a little cheaper than Model III cameras, generally $50-$150 USD difference.
Black-paint and low-serial number Leicas are generally considered more desirable as collector's items than as daily users, mostly from the standpoint of wear and tear diminishing their collector value.
If a user camera is what you're after, I would suggest looking for a clean II-c or II-f, but would not suggest passing-up a III-c or III-f if it fit your budget.
Hope this helps sort it out a bit , I hope I haven't gotten my Leica history muddled !
Regards,
Luddite Frank
The Leica II ( referred to in some books as model D ) was introduced in 1932 as Leitz's first 35 mm camera with an integral, coupled rangefinder. It was an advancement over the Leica Standard and Model I cameras.
It was joined by the Leica III in 1933 which added "slow" shutter speeds from 1 sec to 1/20 sec via a knob on the front of the body.
Alpha suffixes identified subsequent refinements of all models of thread-mount Leica ( I, II, and III ).
The -a suffix models added a top-shutter speed of 1/1000.
The -b suffix placed the Viewfinder and Rangefinder windows right next to each other.
The -c suffix models had an all-new body made from an aluminum casting, offering greater stregnth and stability, plus improvements to the shutter mechanism.
The -f-suffix models were the first Leicas to offer integral flash synchronisation, and came in two flavors: "black-dial" and "red-dial" (referring the the flash sync).
The III-g was the last, and many believe the best, refinement of the thread-mount Leica: it featured a larger & brighter viewfinder window (but still two separate eyepieces for VF and RF), as well as bright framelines w/ parallax compensation when focusing for the 50mm and 90 mm lenses. And a built-in self-timer. And flash sync was now automatic, no more fussy sync dial and guide-book.
The III-g is pricey, with decent bodies averaging $700-$900 USD, up to $1,200-$1,500 (or more )with a lens... many argue that with even with all the improved features, it's still not as good a camera as the M-3, for nearly the same cost.
The III variants are good cameras, some late -c and early -f models tend to have issues with poor chrome and deteriorating shutter curtains, due to materials issues following WW II. If you don't have a need for the slow-speeds below 1/20 second, then you probably don't "need" a III.
The II are the basic LTM camera w/o the slow speeds. They still have "Time" and "Bulb" settings, and the -f models are flash-synched.
The black-paint versions usually bring more money, especially if the paint is in good to excellent condition...
Black-paint cameras or very early serial numbers that were sent-back to be upgraded aside, Model II generally run a little cheaper than Model III cameras, generally $50-$150 USD difference.
Black-paint and low-serial number Leicas are generally considered more desirable as collector's items than as daily users, mostly from the standpoint of wear and tear diminishing their collector value.
If a user camera is what you're after, I would suggest looking for a clean II-c or II-f, but would not suggest passing-up a III-c or III-f if it fit your budget.
Hope this helps sort it out a bit , I hope I haven't gotten my Leica history muddled !
Regards,
Luddite Frank
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