Help.....where to buy Stop Bath

ray*j*gun

ray*j*gun

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Hello,

For years I have purchased all my dark room chemistry from B&H in NY (I live near Phila.). Well, they will not ship most stop bath products any longer so I am asking if anyone knows a source for stop bath that will ship to Phila.

I know there are some home brewed formulas for this but I have never tried that approach.


Thanks!!

Ray
 
Ray, I haven't used an acid stop bath since switching to Photographer's Formulary TF-4 fixer a couple of years ago. I use two water baths to stop the development.
 
Stop bath is not required for film developing, as a 30sec water wash is adequate. If you are wet printing however, a stop bath is required.
 
THANKS!!!

I was referring to wet printing in my plea for help. Thanks for the quick responses I have book marked Freestyle another great resource found because of this forum! My dark room sink is small so 2 water bath trays would be difficult that's why I still use an acid based stop.

Thanks again!!

Ray
 
I have been using distilled white vinegar- available from any supermarket- as my stop bath for years with no ill effects. Dilute 1:15 or 1:20, for both film and prints. FrankS is right that you don't really need stop bath; plain water is adequate. However, use of an acid stop bath will significantly increase the usable life of your acid fixer. It does the job of changing pH between developer and fixer, and also greatly reduces developer carry-over to the fix. If you use an alkaline fix such as TF-4, stop bath is not necessary- just a water rinse is enough. But with most (acid) fixers, it's still a good idea.
 
drewbarb said:
I have been using distilled white vinegar- available from any supermarket- as my stop bath for years with no ill effects. Dilute 1:15 or 1:20, for both film and prints. FrankS is right that you don't really need stop bath; plain water is adequate. However, use of an acid stop bath will significantly increase the usable life of your acid fixer. It does the job of changing pH between developer and fixer, and also greatly reduces developer carry-over to the fix. If you use an alkaline fix such as TF-4, stop bath is not necessary- just a water rinse is enough. But with most (acid) fixers, it's still a good idea.
Click to expand...

I don't intend to hijack the thread but... if I rinse my film after every chemical (after developer, after stop bath, after fixer), am I doing something wrong? The reason I do it is that I don't want to pour, say, fixer into recently "stopped" film (that may have traces of the stop solution) and then pour it back in the bottle to use it again later. My logic is that the Kodak stop solution may taint the fixer somewhat...

Let me know if it's irrelevant or if I should stop doing it. Thanks!

And, BTW, Andy told me a while ago, and I think William (wlewis) too, that water alone is enough to stop the developer. I got a bottle of the Kodak vinegary stuff and I'll finish it, but won't get any more afterwards.
 
You're doing just as I do (so you must be right! 😀).
I rinse after fixing as well before using HypoClear (as suggested in the hypoclear instructions).
 
Good to hear that, Ron. I started doing this as a result of rinsing film right before the Hypoclear solution...

Let's see what else happens.

So, Ray, did you order the stuff from Freestyle? 😕
 
SolaresLarrave said:
I don't intend to hijack the thread but... if I rinse my film after every chemical (after developer, after stop bath, after fixer), am I doing something wrong? The reason I do it is that I don't want to pour, say, fixer into recently "stopped" film (that may have traces of the stop solution) and then pour it back in the bottle to use it again later. My logic is that the Kodak stop solution may taint the fixer somewhat...

Let me know if it's irrelevant or if I should stop doing it. Thanks!

And, BTW, Andy told me a while ago, and I think William (wlewis) too, that water alone is enough to stop the developer. I got a bottle of the Kodak vinegary stuff and I'll finish it, but won't get any more afterwards.
Click to expand...

I don't see how rinsing after stop would hurt anything. But it isn't really necessary. Developers ar alkaline. Stop bath is acid to immediatly stop the development, whidh a water rinse will do more slowly. Usually the recommendation is to use a water bath for 1 minute before the developer, then one minute after. But from stop to fix is just one acid to another. Never heard of a problem with stob bath affecting the fixer.
 
What about getting acetic acid from somewhere?

My grandpa gave me 2 gallons of acetic acid, i think 98%, and told me to use it as a stop bath. I'm afraid of it and it sits in my basement.
 
chrish said:
What about getting acetic acid from somewhere?

My grandpa gave me 2 gallons of acetic acid, i think 98%, and told me to use it as a stop bath. I'm afraid of it and it sits in my basement.
Click to expand...

That is strong stuff. It can be used as stop bath, but only if diluted. You should be able to look up what the dilution should be, and how to mix it. You must be sure not to mix it wrong. If you pour the wrong solution you can get bad burns. I haven't read on that in ages. I think the sequence is pouring the acid into the water, not the other way around.

Somebody who knows for sure, correct me if I am wrong.

Anyway, when/if you decide to use it, be sure you are doing it right, and wear protective goggles and clothing.
 
No, I have not yet but I will when I need my next batch of chemistry. I believe in supporting those who are toiling to preserve film photography. That extends to my next purchase of Dektol and fixer.

Thanks again for the help!!


So, Ray, did you order the stuff from Freestyle? 😕[/quote]
 
Paper Stop bath

2 parts Glacial acetic acid (from local pharmacy) + 98 water

2L for 20 - 8x10" DW FB Prints

Yes, the sequence is pouring the acid into the water.
 
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Half strength distilled vinegar is 2% acetic acid. That is about exactly the same as stop bath for prints. While I use a water stop for film, I prefer the better control of a stop bath for printing.
 
you can go in 4 ways abotu this
1. order from Freeestyle
2. get some glacial acetic acid and dilute to 2-3%
3. Get some (cheap) distilled vinegar and dilute 1+1
4. Buy some citric acid, and dilute a teaspoon per liter of water
 
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