Mamiya 7 II - My New Toy

hunghang said:
I've just developed my very first roll of 120 using the Mamiya 7 (borrowed it from a work friend). My first impression... WOW... the negs are large and would make great contact prints.

Still hanging in the bathroom to dry and I'll scan them tomorrow on my V700.

Although I have no doubt that image quality will be unsurpassed, I am still not sure whether it's for me. All that effort, time, chemicals for just 10 pictures from a 120 roll. For the same amount, I get 72-75 photos from developing 2 rolls of 135 film simultaneously. I know... numbers aren't everything, but if I don't need the large negs for large printing, then maybe it's not for me.

Am I missing something? Maybe my scans will prove me wrong.
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Logically, if you're not enlarging much, everything about 35mm makes more sense. (Un)Fortunately(?), I'm not in photography to make sense.

I think you'll either fall in love with the larger negative or you won't. I seldom print large enough to really justify even MF. I just love the files I get and I figure I'd rather have more negative than I need than less.
 
Well, after trying to scan the curved negatives on the V700, I give up!!! Personally for me, it has not worked out. The negs look great to the eye, but the large size makes the curls not suitable for placement in the V700 film guides.

After a while, I managed to line it up (so I thought). The scan was soft due to uneven distances from the glass surface.

I know. Don't blame the camera for this. I am sure that my mind might have swayed the other way if I had a decent scanner to start with.

Anyone in Australia wanting to buy a Mamiya 7 with the standard 80mm f/4 lens? Drop me a line and I can forward you the details.
 
John,

PM replied.

For clarification, I do not own the Mamiya 7. I only borrowed it from someone who was about to sell it to test it out.

Hung
 
I suppose it is too late but here are some tips on scanning MF chromes or negatives on the Epson 4990 flatbed:

1) It's much easier if you don't cut the negatives into individual images. I leave about 3 or 4 negatives attached, depending on the format. Once you get the negative in the carrier channel, poition it for scanning and close the carrier gate. Yes, this will slightly crimp the sides of the film strip, but it does no damage. I found it almost impossible to load a single negative into the carrier, but a stip of film is quite easy. It doesn't lie completely flat, but honestly, this has never been a big problem in my scans.

2) Betterscanning.com sells 35mm and medium format carriers with anti-newton glass that will keep the negatives quite flat. These carriers are much better built than the stock Epson ones. However, I find the Epson carriers work just as well after a bit of practice, and the scans are alot cleaner since you can blow dust off both sides of the negative with compressed air just before scanning with the Epson carrier, but can only blow dust off one side of the negative with the Betterscanning carrier because the glass blocks one side of the negative.

3) Don't give up on MF scanning too quickly. It takes a bit of practice to become familiar with it. At first, it's like trying to hold a snake over a bed of coals. But once you get your technique down it is actualy easier than scanning 35mm negatives.

/T
 
Tuolumne,

thanks for the great tips. I would definitely refer to these when I give it another go next time. For my V700 film guide/holders, they are just quite flimsy and the curl of the negs make them too narrow to even stay within the guides.

The anti-newton glass would certainly help here.
 
I must admit I've never had too much problem with scanning MF negs on my V700 ... I always leave them for quite a while cut into strips of four rolled tightly in the direction counter to the natural curl of the negative then scan them emulsion side down as soon as they're released! They sit very flat initially done this way! 🙂

Once you've scanned a roll of 120 successfully and had a good look at the detail it's hard not to compare it to the wimpy results from 35mm! 😛
 
hunghang said:
I gotta give that a try now Keith... If I get the MF bug, it's your fault!
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MF's great but the cost of film does become an issue ... I see it as special occasion format. The majority of my shooting is from bulk roll 100ft ...Neopan when I could get it was great but I'm currently trying HP5+ which I'm not convinced about but also have a couple of 100ft rolls of TRI-X that arrived from Freestyle the other day.

Hung ... get yourself a loader and some spent cassettes from a 1hr ... load 24 frame rolls and blaze away knowing it's costing less than two bucks a roll. If you're now doing your own developing this next step really frees up your shooting style and allows you to experiment without blowing a lot of money on the occasional (did I say occasional 😛) failures!

MF for me is the treat I allow myself when I've put the hard yards in with the 35mm! 😀
 
hunghang said:
Although I have no doubt that image quality will be unsurpassed, I am still not sure whether it's for me. All that effort, time, chemicals for just 10 pictures from a 120 roll. For the same amount, I get 72-75 photos from developing 2 rolls of 135 film simultaneously. I know... numbers aren't everything, but if I don't need the large negs for large printing, then maybe it's not for me.

Am I missing something? Maybe my scans will prove me wrong.
Click to expand...

Develop two rolls of 120 on one reel. Load the first and leave the tape attached (peel not tear off backing). Load the second roll and stick it to the first to ensure no overlapping takes place. Develop as normal. Takes some practice to stick the second roll to the first once the first has passed the bearings and the second is partially loaded and so aligned correctly (ie passed the bearings and then stuck to the first. once mastered it is easy and works every time.

If you dont print big and your subject matter does not require subtle tonality or detail, 120 is a waste of time. If you shoot over 11x14 it most definitely is not, or if you want 10x8 prints that look almost like contacts. At 20x16 there is huge difference between 6x7 and 35mm.
 
Turtle said:
Develop two rolls of 120 on one reel. Load the first and leave the tape attached (peel not tear off backing). Load the second roll and stick it to the first to ensure no overlapping takes place. Develop as normal. Takes some practice to stick the second roll to the first once the first has passed the bearings and the second is partially loaded and so aligned correctly (ie passed the bearings and then stuck to the first. once mastered it is easy and works every time.

If you dont print big and your subject matter does not require subtle tonality or detail, 120 is a waste of time. If you shoot over 11x14 it most definitely is not, or if you want 10x8 prints that look almost like contacts. At 20x16 there is huge difference between 6x7 and 35mm.
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Very cool tip... I'll have to remember that (shows how much of a newbie I am when it comes to handling MF). Thanks Turtle!
 
I've owned two different ones, and they are simply fantastic optics.

The 43 was my fave.

If you have trouble getting it to focus right, or suspect alignment issues with the rangefinder, search for my adjustment article on this site. I wrote it up on the first camera then had to refer back to it for the second. 🙂
 
jdos2 said:
I've owned two different ones, and they are simply fantastic optics.

QUOTE]

Agree with that comment, the only lens I own is the standard 80/4....but what a lens it is 😉

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Todd
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I finally tried scanning a 6x7 with my Epson V500. I have had the Mamiya 7II for aboout 6 months but only now putting it to much use. I only have the 80mm lens (wishing for a 50mm). I am loving the camera so far.


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