Minolta Hi-Matic 7s

biomed

biomed

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I was just given a Hi-matic 7s by a friend. It is in excellent shape. Everything seems to work (I haven't tested the meter). The battery compartment contained a dead PX-13 cell and is totally free of corrosion. Apparently the camera can be operated manually without using the meter. Automatic appears to be an aperature priority mode. I just downloaded a manual, but have not perused through all of the features. I will be thrilled if it is in fact a full manual camera. Any Hi-matic users out there?

Mike
 
I've got one and I've had a few rolls through it. It's very competent.
I seldom reach for anything fixed lens but the Hexar AF these days, so it doesn't get much use.
 
It's my only RF, and I've put about 30 rolls through it now. This is my second one though, as the first had stuck aperture blades. It now sits on my sister's shelf as an ornament. The working one is great however. The lens seems quite nice from my amateur perspective. I've only ever used it in manual mode, so I don't know much about the auto modes. The meter in mine works, but underexposes severely, so I use my handheld sekonic meter.

All in all a fairly decent camera... and one that has convinced me that RFs suit my way of working.
 
I have one of these and I am rather pleased with it. It can be used in two way: full automatic with the two "A" in front of the arrow of fully manual with everything but "A" in front of the arrow (donnot try "A" and an aperture or "A" and a speed, you will not have any priority mode) with the help of the light meter (the way I use it).

According to want I read, the lens quality is on par with the Yashica Electro 35 (I have not verified and think the 7s is more prone to flare).
 
I've just gotten home and I check and my Hi-Matic 9 works as a fully manual camera without a battery. Just no meter. Both Shutter and Aperteur adjust and function as expected. Your Hi-Matic 7s should do the same.
 
The 7S is a very good camera with very sharp lens. A little bit on the heavy side. The only complaint is that the shutter release is a bit stiff and travels a long way before firing the shutter. Don't trust the meter though. I have sold mine and now I use a 7SII regularly. Same quality lens, smaller and lighter and, of course, smoother shutter release. I would prefer the 7S to the Yashica Electros because you do not rely on batteries. Treat it with a good filter and lens hood. Given good care, it will probably give you a lifetime of good pictures.
 
The Minolta Himatic 7S can be operated in Auto mode but needs a battery. Sliding both rings off 'A' operates it in full manual mode, and doesn't need a battery, but there will be no light meter indication. The ASA switch on the underside of the lens is also an on/off switch. I guess you have checked that it is on a valid ASA setting. It's not uncommon to find the battery lead inside the camera, is corroded.
 
Chriscrawfordphoto said:
I have one but the rangefinder is innacurate. It backfocuses. Does anyone know how to adjust these at home?
Click to expand...

I haven't had to do my Hi-Matic 7s, but I recently adjusted a Minolta AL-F. When I had the top off of the Hi-Matic it looked similar. Remove the top and take a look at the RF assembly. You'll see three small screws behind the window at the front of the camera. The center screw is a setscrew used to hold everything in position, while the left and right screws will adjust the alignment. Slightly loosen the center screw. Looking through the finder you can carefully adjust the other two screws as necessary. Finally, re-tighten the center screw to hold your settings. (I'd also recommend double-checking the adjustments before you put the top back on. It's annoying to have to take it apart again.)

Hope this helps. I have a photo I took as I adjusted the AL-F, if you think it'd be useful.
 
bcostin said:
I haven't had to do my Hi-Matic 7s, but I recently adjusted a Minolta AL-F. When I had the top off of the Hi-Matic it looked similar. Remove the top and take a look at the RF assembly. You'll see three small screws behind the window at the front of the camera. The center screw is a setscrew used to hold everything in position, while the left and right screws will adjust the alignment. Slightly loosen the center screw. Looking through the finder you can carefully adjust the other two screws as necessary. Finally, re-tighten the center screw to hold your settings. (I'd also recommend double-checking the adjustments before you put the top back on. It's annoying to have to take it apart again.)

Hope this helps. I have a photo I took as I adjusted the AL-F, if you think it'd be useful.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I might take mine apart tomorrow and see if i can fix it. 😀
 
I shoot on a 7s. Brilliant camera, I love it. I shoot in full manual mode, because I'm self-destructive like that 😛

Enjoy it, and look after it!


Also, the thing weighs so much, it can double as a weapon if you ever get mugged in the street 😉
 
Nickon51 said:
The Minolta Himatic 7S can be operated in Auto mode but needs a battery. Sliding both rings off 'A' operates it in full manual mode, and doesn't need a battery, but there will be no light meter indication. The ASA switch on the underside of the lens is also an on/off switch. I guess you have checked that it is on a valid ASA setting. It's not uncommon to find the battery lead inside the camera, is corroded.
Click to expand...

You still get metering in manual mode, or at least mine still does. But I never use it, because as said it is fairly innacurate.

To the people saying it is heavy, I guess that is a relative term- after having carried round a pentax 67 for months, the himatic feels light! 😀
 
it was my first camera... back in 72...
still got a lot of slides and negs done at the time...

found one working some years ago... to remember... still use it sometimes, but an oly rd or sp is far more pleasant...
 
Nickon51 said:
The Minolta Himatic 7S can be operated in Auto mode but needs a battery. Sliding both rings off 'A' operates it in full manual mode, and doesn't need a battery, but there will be no light meter indication. The ASA switch on the underside of the lens is also an on/off switch. I guess you have checked that it is on a valid ASA setting. It's not uncommon to find the battery lead inside the camera, is corroded.
Click to expand...

I have one that has the corroded off lead. The trouble is it is too short to get a small soldering iron on. Do any of you know where this wire leads to? I would like to put in a new wire to get the battery operating again for auto mode.

Thanks
Richard
 
photovdz said:
... but an oly rd or sp is far more pleasant...
Click to expand...

I have shot all 3 together for comparison. The F and G Zuiko lenses just do not compare with the Rokkor although the RD does wins on a quiet and soft shutter and it is very light and the SP has spot metering. My only complaint with the 7S is, as I have stated earlier, a rather stiff and long travelling shutter which can take a bit of getting used to.
 
The battery wire is routed up next to the lens, across the top of the lens recess, through a hole in the back of the recess, and onto a PCB in the top of the camera. You will need to take the top off the camera and also remove the lens assy out of the camera.
To take the lens assy out, peel back the leatherette on each side and remove the two screws on either side of the lens mounting plate. On the RH side (LH looking at the front) there is a small cover, remove that and unhook the spring and lever underneath. Carefully pull the whole assy out.
 

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Nickon51 said:
The Minolta Himatic 7S can be operated in Auto mode but needs a battery. Sliding both rings off 'A' operates it in full manual mode, and doesn't need a battery, but there will be no light meter indication. The ASA switch on the underside of the lens is also an on/off switch. I guess you have checked that it is on a valid ASA setting. It's not uncommon to find the battery lead inside the camera, is corroded.
Click to expand...

The reference to the light meter not working in manual mode was in response to whether it would work in manual mode without the battery, yes it will but there will be no metering. With the battery, there is, as you would expect ,metering.
 
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