Sigma and Foveon resource (usage tips) and information thread.

Keith

Keith

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I thought it might be useful to collect what we know about using the Sigma cameras and in particular the foveon sensored variety into one thread. They are definitely not your average straight forward digicam and my own learning curve has been quite steep to my surprise.

Also helpful for people, new owners in particular, in coming to grips with the SPP software.

🙂
 
It maybe easier to do this as a q&a type of thread as well. People can volunteer info, but asking questions in the thread maybe a good way to kick it all off as well.

Gary
 
Here are some links to what was discussed before

Here are some links to what was discussed before

High iso b&w
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133467

Good video about using spp in monochrom
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133623

Possible solution for magenta cast to explore
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134065

How to create smoother looking skin on portraits
http://x3magazine.com/2013/03/09/smoother-portraits/


Some sigma propaganda resource links
http://www.sigma-dp.com/
http://x3magazine.com/
http://blog.sigmaphoto.com/
 
GaryLH said:
It maybe easier to do this as a q&a type of thread as well. People can volunteer info, but asking questions in the thread maybe a good way to kick it all off as well.

Gary
Click to expand...

I think it's reasonably important because the Merrills in particular are not a camera you can just pick up and use and instantly get great results. I was quite disappointed in mine initially.
 
About AF DP Merrills

About AF DP Merrills

Hi i can advice on this:

The AF system is OK

Constrast type, so always spot an edge or a difference tween light and shadow.

Use the option AF limit, this one will prevent the af system to hunt AF lock tween 28cm and 1 mtr...this is very helpful!

Use AF priority.

RTemember the dp2 m is a 30mm lens so DOF base dof is huge...even more dof has the 19mm dp1 m....so you can avoid using AF system if you want!
 
My photo editing work flow

My photo editing work flow

As everyone says and I agree, the jpgs are the worst, the raw file is the only good one to use... That being said......

I normally shoot in raw+Jpg so that I can use the Jpg in Aperture to do initial evaluation and processing in order to decide which shots are good enough to go thru spp processing of the raw to tiff 16 file. I know that a lot of people just use raw only and do their weeding in spp file manager, but I find spp tooo slow for me and I like to keep stuff around in terms of my master database (Aperture).

Substitute your favorite editor for Aperture.

- import Jpg to aperture and the raw to a new folder (I create by dated named folder)
- rate and do initial processing using my default affect setting script
- the ones are keepers go thru raw to tiff 16 processing
-- decide which ones can be handled by
--- a known spp side profile for batch processing
--- need to create a new profile to be saved and used for batch processing
--- need to be handled individually

Spp side work
- group by saved profile manipulation type and run batch save on that group
- new batch files
-- bring first file of that group
-- decide the unique changes that need to be made
-- save the new batch profile
-- run the new batch profile for that group
- handle the one on ones last

Back on Aperture side
- import the new tiff files and work as normal.

A note about saved profiles and their usage.
- in the spp file manager dialog, there is a save as function at top left of screen
- highlight select the raw files u want to save
- select Jpg or tiff8 or tiff16 file type via pull down
- original file size or half or double
- there is a color and monochrom pull down for the type of profile to use. The default is original.. This means whatever te setup in the camera was. When u use the color or monochrom pull down, u will find the saved profiles u created.
-- select one based on what u want to do.. Including batching changing color std to vivid w/ exposure dialed down to -2 for example (because that was what was saved in the profile u selected)
-- choose your destination folder
- these profiles were created during a spp edit session when u opened spp on a specific raw file.
-- all the edit changes u made during that session except for noise settings are save to a profile.. This dialog can be found on top left tool bar area. U can name it anything u want.

When u first begin, it maybe better to not do anything w/ saved spp profiles. Get comfortable w/ spp first. Just use the original default profile during batch save and instead use your favorite editor to do the hardcore work from the tiff file created.

Btw spp crashes on me if I do over 16 raw files in the same batch run. Jon and others have not seen this issue.

Hope that helps
Gary
 
Thanks - great thread. My new DP2M should arrive tomorrow, so these tips are much appreciated!

If I'm getting reading this correctly, the general workflow seems to be tweaking the exposure/white balance in SPP and then exporting as a TIFF16 for more advanced edits in Lightroom/Aperature/whatever.

Are any other adjustments usually made in SPP? (Not including monochrome). I assume the noise reduction engine in SPP is better for foveon files than the built-in NR in Lightroom? But maybe I am wrong.

Does anyone have any lightweight tripod recommendations that won't break the bank? I don't think I need a special-purpose pano head but I do intend to do at least some basic stitching. I've looked into the MeFoto series and they seem okay, and more importantly, comparably inexpensive.

I'm also wondering if any of you use the J Milich L plate. It may make sense for me to invest in one.

Thanks guys!
Dan
 
evilgeniusdan said:
Thanks - great thread. My new DP2M should arrive tomorrow, so these tips are much appreciated!

If I'm getting reading this correctly, the general workflow seems to be tweaking the exposure/white balance in SPP and then exporting as a TIFF16 for more advanced edits in Lightroom/Aperature/whatever.

Are any other adjustments usually made in SPP? (Not including monochrome). I assume the noise reduction engine in SPP is better for foveon files than the built-in NR in Lightroom? But maybe I am wrong.

Does anyone have any lightweight tripod recommendations that won't break the bank? I don't think I need a special-purpose pano head but I do intend to do at least some basic stitching. I've looked into the MeFoto series and they seem okay, and more importantly, comparably inexpensive.

I'm also wondering if any of you use the J Milich L plate. It may make sense for me to invest in one.

Thanks guys!
Dan
Click to expand...

The noise reduction to me is better in most cases in spp for b&w. I can't answer for color since I normally do not shoot above 640 for color.

I use a rrs plate plus handgrip on both my dp Merrill's.

The other questions I can't help w/ since I rarely use a tripod. The one I have though was for 4x5 and medium format (weighs a ton)..

Gary
 
evilgeniusdan said:
Thanks - great thread. My new DP2M should arrive tomorrow, so these tips are much appreciated!

If I'm getting reading this correctly, the general workflow seems to be tweaking the exposure/white balance in SPP and then exporting as a TIFF16 for more advanced edits in Lightroom/Aperature/whatever.

Are any other adjustments usually made in SPP? (Not including monochrome). I assume the noise reduction engine in SPP is better for foveon files than the built-in NR in Lightroom? But maybe I am wrong.

Does anyone have any lightweight tripod recommendations that won't break the bank? I don't think I need a special-purpose pano head but I do intend to do at least some basic stitching. I've looked into the MeFoto series and they seem okay, and more importantly, comparably inexpensive.

I'm also wondering if any of you use the J Milich L plate. It may make sense for me to invest in one.

Thanks guys!
Dan
Click to expand...


I've just ordered a carbon fibre Sirui which seems like a great deal and should suit the Sigma to a T. Sirui


The less adjustments you have to do in SPP the better IMO because it appears to be very resource hungry and makes my laptop run fairly slowly. The 16 bit TIFF files are a breeze to work on in ACDSee Pro 6 by comparison.
 
evilgeniusdan said:
Thanks - great thread. My new DP2M should arrive tomorrow, so these tips are much appreciated!

If I'm getting reading this correctly, the general workflow seems to be tweaking the exposure/white balance in SPP and then exporting as a TIFF16 for more advanced edits in Lightroom/Aperature/whatever.

Are any other adjustments usually made in SPP? (Not including monochrome). I assume the noise reduction engine in SPP is better for foveon files than the built-in NR in Lightroom? But maybe I am wrong.

Does anyone have any lightweight tripod recommendations that won't break the bank? I don't think I need a special-purpose pano head but I do intend to do at least some basic stitching. I've looked into the MeFoto series and they seem okay, and more importantly, comparably inexpensive.

I'm also wondering if any of you use the J Milich L plate. It may make sense for me to invest in one.

Thanks guys!
Dan
Click to expand...

Forgot to mention that like any raw, it has more headroom then the converted file. If u c blown highlights for example, it is better to do your recovery under spp where u have direct access to the raw file then to wait till later under your favorite editor. One of my favorite profile is a one stop exposure recovery.

As I mentioned before.. Get comfortable w/ just doing batch saves w/ spp first and a workflow w/ your favorite editor before u worry about any of the things that spp is good for.

Unlike silky pix, spp wa tailored only for sigma cameras. And specifically w/ the last set of updates to Merrill based ones.

Gary
 
I only use multi pattern metering with my DP2M and while it's very good it's not intelligent like the Nikon matrix system that draws on a data base of known scenarios to establish correct exposure. Offer it a very bright minimal light source in a composition and it will generally give an over exposure and your light source will have blown highlights ... in this situation I will generally under expose by 2/3 to a stop.
 
Actually, the Nikon has the best matrix meter bar none. The sigma can be easily fooled.

Since I shoot a lot of the time w/ the ovf, I tend to use -1/3 ec for the dp2 and -2/3 for the dp1 out of habit.. I don't have auto review active and normally do not review shots until much later in time. So most of the time I don't have blown highlights. But there are still times I have seen it, which is why I have that profile around.

Gary
 
GaryLH said:
Forgot to mention that like any raw, it has more headroom then the converted file. If u c blown highlights for example, it is better to do your recovery under spp where u have direct access to the raw file then to wait till later under your favorite editor. One of my favorite profile is a one stop exposure recovery
Click to expand...

are you saying that you bring the exposure down in SPP to recover highlights then bring them back up later when you process?

so far i have found the shadows quite noisy and am having a bit of struggle getting the highlights all in SPP.
 
FA Limited said:
are you saying that you bring the exposure down in SPP to recover highlights then bring them back up later when you process?

so far i have found the shadows quite noisy and am having a bit of struggle getting the highlights all in SPP.
Click to expand...

The Merrill sensor has less dynamic range then other cameras and given I normally don't review my shot until much later and I tend to use a ovf a lot... I won't notice the blown highlight until I start processing in spp.

I know there are some who advocate exposé to the right and recover the highlights in your raw processor. I am not doing that on purpose.

Gary
 
i must say i'm big on ETTR, on sunny days the camera does tend to underexpose. i also tend to lift the shadows (i typically add X3F fill light in the range of +0.3 to +0.5) and it gives more grain than i would like. i find there is some level of highlight recovery but it's not great either. it's pretty WYSIWYG.

i agree that the meter isn't the greatest (i.e. like the X100), i need to watch the histogram like a hawk. usually i find the tendency to underexpose and i get punished when i'm lazy.
 
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