Lukino
new to rf
I've restored a broken Yashica Mat 124G that was of my father, and I'm running a roll to check if everything works fine, but I'm having an unexpectec problem - I cannot hold it steady!
Sorry if this question sounds stupid, but I've googled around and the only "good" position I've found is with a hand under the camera and the other one on the side-focus knob. Yet, this doesn't seem firm enough for me, since the release button must be pressed all the way to fire and this causes my hold to shake...
Can someone please give me some hints?
Sorry if this question sounds stupid, but I've googled around and the only "good" position I've found is with a hand under the camera and the other one on the side-focus knob. Yet, this doesn't seem firm enough for me, since the release button must be pressed all the way to fire and this causes my hold to shake...
Can someone please give me some hints?
kully
Happy Snapper
I would recommend a soft-release - it makes pressing the button a lot easier.
If the Yashicamat is the same as a Rolleiflex then I cradle with the right-hand and use the thumb for the release and focus with the left hand
If the Yashicamat is the same as a Rolleiflex then I cradle with the right-hand and use the thumb for the release and focus with the left hand
ruby.monkey
Veteran
Is there a pistol grip available for the Yashica?
snip
Established
I hold my TLR's with two hands, little fingers underneath the body and thumbs behind it, operating the controls with the other fingers.
//Jan
D.O'K.
Darren O'Keeffe.
Two possible alternatives (albeit not suitable for all shooting situations):
(1) use the neckstrap and pull the camera down so the strap is tight;
(2) kneel on one knee and use the other as a platform upon which to rest the camera.
Both methods provide a good steadying effect.
Regards,
D.
(1) use the neckstrap and pull the camera down so the strap is tight;
(2) kneel on one knee and use the other as a platform upon which to rest the camera.
Both methods provide a good steadying effect.
Regards,
D.
kully
Happy Snapper
I have one of these: 290265475868 (eBay ID)
Not so good with a big flash like a Vivitar 285 as your head hits the side of it looking into the finder magnifier. Works well as a grip too. Although it makes changing film more awkward.
Not so good with a big flash like a Vivitar 285 as your head hits the side of it looking into the finder magnifier. Works well as a grip too. Although it makes changing film more awkward.
oftheherd
Veteran
I know that works for a lot of people, but I always found holding with two hands and pulling on the neck strap when needed worked better. To me, the grip was only comfortable when using the sports finder or (on the Rolleiflex), the upside-down mirror. Also, holding with two hands as mentioned, in whatever way is most comfortable for you. For me, it was still using my index finger for the shutter release. YMMV.
Remember, you have a TLR. It's not really meant to be high speed, motor driven 250 exposure camera. Take you time. Enjoy looking into the ground glass and composing. Only when you are sure you have the composition nailed, shoot.
You have a good camera. Take your time to find out how you can best hold it and use it. In the end, you will be happy.
newspaperguy
Well-known
At the risk of sounding "old school" (and I guess I am) please consider the time-honored way - use a tripod. You won't believe the difference it will make.
And another wonderful thing about a TLR.... you don't need a tall tripod.
And another wonderful thing about a TLR.... you don't need a tall tripod.
KoNickon
Nick Merritt
The trick with any camera with a relatively long travel shutter release (and that's most TLRs, I think) is to find the release point, and once you're close to it, press slowly. Rather like finding the engagement point on a car's clutch pedal. But TLR shutters are quite vibration free, and the shutter releases don't require much effort. So it should be pretty easy to handhold these cameras at slow speeds, even without a strap, tripod or other firm base.
Lukino
new to rf
Thanks to everybody for the useful suggestions! I've found very effective to pull the neckstrap until is tight... and to relax and composing too 
even if my "subjects" have a very short patience - still they pretend to "pose"! Be natural! No way...
even if my "subjects" have a very short patience - still they pretend to "pose"! Be natural! No way...D.O'K.
Darren O'Keeffe.
"So it should be pretty easy to handhold these cameras at slow speeds, even without a strap, tripod or other firm base".
Very true. A combination of their heft and the absence of a flipping mirror helps facilitate this. Indeed (all other things being equal) I suspect most TLR users find they can get sharp results handheld at around two stops less than is usually possible with SLR's.
In fact I can usually handhold them successfully (meaning, to me, results sharp under a 7x loupe) at slower speeds than is possible with a rangefinder: often at 1/15 or 1/8, and sometimes at 1/4...
D.
Very true. A combination of their heft and the absence of a flipping mirror helps facilitate this. Indeed (all other things being equal) I suspect most TLR users find they can get sharp results handheld at around two stops less than is usually possible with SLR's.
In fact I can usually handhold them successfully (meaning, to me, results sharp under a 7x loupe) at slower speeds than is possible with a rangefinder: often at 1/15 or 1/8, and sometimes at 1/4...
D.
Gumby
Veteran
Being just a little less old, I suggest consideration of a monopod. This has worked quite sucessfully for me on both TLR and MF SLR. I always use a quick-release so hand-held use can be done easily.