Arvay
Obscurant
I mean that nothing is moving in the cam. How does it focus?
What makes Perkeo I focusing
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sahe69
Well-known
Doesn't the front lens group rotate and have a focus scale?
I have a perkeo III / E, maybe it's different in this respect but I would not really expect that.
I have a perkeo III / E, maybe it's different in this respect but I would not really expect that.
mr_phillip
Well-known
Arvay
Obscurant
No. Maybe mine is broken?..
Is it possible to fix it myself?
Is it possible to fix it myself?
Solinar
Analog Preferred
It's a simple design, only the front element moves relative to the film plane.
When you rotate the focus ring counter clockwise, the front element moves further away from the film plane and like other front cell focusing cameras, away the rest of the lens as well. The middle and rear element or group remain stationary relative to the film plane.
When you rotate the focus ring counter clockwise, the front element moves further away from the film plane and like other front cell focusing cameras, away the rest of the lens as well. The middle and rear element or group remain stationary relative to the film plane.
Solinar
Analog Preferred
Arvay, are you saying that your focus adjustment is frozen?
Arvay
Obscurant
No. I can see that the focusing ring moves but the lens stands still. I think that three screews are not screwed in proper way/ But how can I fix it?..
kuzano
Veteran
Only the front element moves
Only the front element moves
Are you saying that the front ring with the distance numbers turns but the first glass does not turn.
That creates a problem, if the three screws are loose and just the ring is turning.
You can tighten down the screws and clamp the front cell, but the lube for the front cell may be rock hard (common on the lubes used in the 40's and 50's.
I normally use the "ronsonol flush" method to get the adhesive to let loose (lighter fluid-no lubes). I don't flood the lens, but apply the lighter fluid carefully around the threads of the front cell. You can loosen the 3 screws off the distance ring and lift the distance ring off the lens ring to get to the threads.
The bigger problem is that, on re-assembly, you have to set those screws at the proper location for focus. The way I do it is put the camera on a tripod and use a piece of ground glass taped to the film plane location. Then focus the front cell on a known distance and tighten the front ring down at the proper distance location. I use ten feet, sometimes 12 or 15, and then check a couple of other distances.
Test it on a couple of measured distances and see if the distance scale on the ring is stopping at the proper locations at the pointer.
Don't take the front cell completely out, as it can be started back in at two or more locations on the threads. However, if you do, or someone has taken it out, the method above works to get it set right. It's just that it's a real bugger to get started back in once it's out of the front assembly.
Perkeo's are fantastic little 6X6 cameras and even the Vaskar triplet will turn in some nice images. Very small. Put a rangefinder in the shoe at top and master the front cell focusing.
Only the front element moves
Are you saying that the front ring with the distance numbers turns but the first glass does not turn.
That creates a problem, if the three screws are loose and just the ring is turning.
You can tighten down the screws and clamp the front cell, but the lube for the front cell may be rock hard (common on the lubes used in the 40's and 50's.
I normally use the "ronsonol flush" method to get the adhesive to let loose (lighter fluid-no lubes). I don't flood the lens, but apply the lighter fluid carefully around the threads of the front cell. You can loosen the 3 screws off the distance ring and lift the distance ring off the lens ring to get to the threads.
The bigger problem is that, on re-assembly, you have to set those screws at the proper location for focus. The way I do it is put the camera on a tripod and use a piece of ground glass taped to the film plane location. Then focus the front cell on a known distance and tighten the front ring down at the proper distance location. I use ten feet, sometimes 12 or 15, and then check a couple of other distances.
Test it on a couple of measured distances and see if the distance scale on the ring is stopping at the proper locations at the pointer.
Don't take the front cell completely out, as it can be started back in at two or more locations on the threads. However, if you do, or someone has taken it out, the method above works to get it set right. It's just that it's a real bugger to get started back in once it's out of the front assembly.
Perkeo's are fantastic little 6X6 cameras and even the Vaskar triplet will turn in some nice images. Very small. Put a rangefinder in the shoe at top and master the front cell focusing.
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Arvay
Obscurant
Thanks to all who helped.
There was the following problm as I realized: the previous owner tried to clean up lenses and after it he screwed the lensblock deep untill it stopped into the thread. That's why the lens was not moving.
Special thanks to kuzano who made clear for me how to check focus on it!
By the way, is my Perkeo rare as it has not a 85 but 75 mm Vaskar? 🙂
There was the following problm as I realized: the previous owner tried to clean up lenses and after it he screwed the lensblock deep untill it stopped into the thread. That's why the lens was not moving.
Special thanks to kuzano who made clear for me how to check focus on it!
By the way, is my Perkeo rare as it has not a 85 but 75 mm Vaskar? 🙂
FallisPhoto
Veteran
Arvay
Obscurant
I made it in other way
I put a tape measure for 3.5 feet and put a Fuji NPL box on the end. Than I swithed off the light and put a flashlight ray on it to make it very contrasty.
Than I put a matte plastic (similar to the film) to the back and took a LF focusing lens to get my focusing precise.
I put a tape measure for 3.5 feet and put a Fuji NPL box on the end. Than I swithed off the light and put a flashlight ray on it to make it very contrasty.
Than I put a matte plastic (similar to the film) to the back and took a LF focusing lens to get my focusing precise.
kuzano
Veteran
Great Link... another trick...
Great Link... another trick...
I went to Costco and found a plastic kitchen container (like tupperware) that had a flat side, big enough to cut a surface the size of the film opening. One side is an opaque rough surface, and if that side is taped against the opening, it works exactly like a ground glass. That and a loupe and you are in business for calibrating your focus.
Anyway... so glad you got it fixed. Fun camera.
Great Link... another trick...
I went to Costco and found a plastic kitchen container (like tupperware) that had a flat side, big enough to cut a surface the size of the film opening. One side is an opaque rough surface, and if that side is taped against the opening, it works exactly like a ground glass. That and a loupe and you are in business for calibrating your focus.
Anyway... so glad you got it fixed. Fun camera.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
This is the most precise method: http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-123.html There are a few variations on this, but basically, both cameras have to be in sharp focus, at infinity, for you to see the target.
Leigh Youdale
Well-known
Perkeo Lens
Perkeo Lens
Well, it's different! My Perkeo I has an 80mm Vaskar lens, and the Perkeo II has the 80mm Color Skopar lens. I haven't heard of either a 75 or an 85mm lens on the Perkeo, but it's possible I suppose. Post war shortages induced manufacturers to use whatever was available.
Perkeo Lens
Well, it's different! My Perkeo I has an 80mm Vaskar lens, and the Perkeo II has the 80mm Color Skopar lens. I haven't heard of either a 75 or an 85mm lens on the Perkeo, but it's possible I suppose. Post war shortages induced manufacturers to use whatever was available.
chippy
foo was here
I have two Perkeo I and they both have the Vaskar 75mm which is pretty much the standard lens i believe (or with a scopar 80mm which is the more uncommon lens to find on these).
the perkeo II was offered with the 80mm Vaskar or the 80mm scopar.
As an aside one of my Perkeo I came with its original box with instuctions and price tag still on it. it cost 18 pounds (Australian pounds not British)
Leigh i would think if yours is a Perkeo I and not a Perkeo II (could you double check whether its a model 1 or 2? it would be interesting to know for certain) with the 80mm Vaskar then its an uncommon variant for the Perkeo I, the 75mm vaskar is normal.
the perkeo II was offered with the 80mm Vaskar or the 80mm scopar.
As an aside one of my Perkeo I came with its original box with instuctions and price tag still on it. it cost 18 pounds (Australian pounds not British)
Leigh i would think if yours is a Perkeo I and not a Perkeo II (could you double check whether its a model 1 or 2? it would be interesting to know for certain) with the 80mm Vaskar then its an uncommon variant for the Perkeo I, the 75mm vaskar is normal.
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kuzano
Veteran
I have a Perkeo I with a Color Skopar/Compur
I have a Perkeo I with a Color Skopar/Compur
I suspect the lens/body combinations were all over the map. I have a Perkeo I (definitely embossed Perkeo I on back covering, PI top with no film count/stop) with an 80mm Color Skopar and the silver colored front standards. I have only seen 75 Vaskars and 80 Color Skopars. All the Vaskars had black wrinkle finish front standards, while the Skopars had silver front standards. I've owned about 8 perkeo I's and II's. The Vaskar shutters have always been Prontor and the Color Skopar shutters have always been Synchro Compur up to 1/500th. I have ever only seen 75mm Vaskars and 80mm Color Skopars.
In addition, I have had three Bessa I's with Color Skopars, while they mostly came with 105 Vaskars and prontor. All three of the Bessa I's had Synchro Compur shutters.
My suspicion is that Voigtlander used a "whatever is on the shelf" process on the assembly line.
My preference is the PI with the Color Skopar to avoid all the fragile film count mechanism. The only reason to own a Perkeo II is if you can't find a Perkeo I with the Color Skopar.
However, the Vaskar can hold it's own against the other triplet lenses of that era.
I think a complete Voigtlander combo is the PI with Color Skopar and the Bessa I with the Color Skopar AND the dual format plate.
Then you can shoot 6X4.5, 6X6 and 6X9, with two cameras carried in each coat pocket.
I have a Perkeo I with a Color Skopar/Compur
I suspect the lens/body combinations were all over the map. I have a Perkeo I (definitely embossed Perkeo I on back covering, PI top with no film count/stop) with an 80mm Color Skopar and the silver colored front standards. I have only seen 75 Vaskars and 80 Color Skopars. All the Vaskars had black wrinkle finish front standards, while the Skopars had silver front standards. I've owned about 8 perkeo I's and II's. The Vaskar shutters have always been Prontor and the Color Skopar shutters have always been Synchro Compur up to 1/500th. I have ever only seen 75mm Vaskars and 80mm Color Skopars.
In addition, I have had three Bessa I's with Color Skopars, while they mostly came with 105 Vaskars and prontor. All three of the Bessa I's had Synchro Compur shutters.
My suspicion is that Voigtlander used a "whatever is on the shelf" process on the assembly line.
My preference is the PI with the Color Skopar to avoid all the fragile film count mechanism. The only reason to own a Perkeo II is if you can't find a Perkeo I with the Color Skopar.
However, the Vaskar can hold it's own against the other triplet lenses of that era.
I think a complete Voigtlander combo is the PI with Color Skopar and the Bessa I with the Color Skopar AND the dual format plate.
Then you can shoot 6X4.5, 6X6 and 6X9, with two cameras carried in each coat pocket.
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