titrisol
Bottom Feeder
There are 2 other options:
- FOMA R100 (I think Freestyle has it)
- a new Rollei Dia-Direkt film (it was still on testing stage last time i checked)
I have not tried the FOMA, but it has a positive development kit that comes with it, it maybe usable with any other film.
Other than that, you can also make copies of the negatives unto negative film (thus a positive). Use Rollei ATP or some other film with transparent or neutral grey background
- FOMA R100 (I think Freestyle has it)
- a new Rollei Dia-Direkt film (it was still on testing stage last time i checked)
I have not tried the FOMA, but it has a positive development kit that comes with it, it maybe usable with any other film.
Other than that, you can also make copies of the negatives unto negative film (thus a positive). Use Rollei ATP or some other film with transparent or neutral grey background
Last edited:
ZorkiKat
ЗоркийК&
DIY Reversal Formulae
DIY Reversal Formulae
I used to do reversal processing with regular BW film, using DIY chemistry.
Not all films are suitable. Some have grey bases which downgrade the clarity of the processed slide. Some have very clear bases which make brilliant slides. TriX, Plus-X have rather grey bases. The best film I used for reversal processing was Luckypan100, which as a very clear, low fog base.
TMax 100 also made fine reversal slides.
The first step is to expose the film properly. TMax may require 2x more increase in exposure (from ISO 100 to EI 50), but some reversal chemistry will actually boost the speed to about 2X. For isntance the defunct Kodak reversal sets for Panatomic X required an EI of 64 instead of the official ISO 32. In most cases a bit of overexposure may help- the extra bit of exposure wil make for denser negative images; more silver developed means more brilliant slides in the end.
The formula I used was DIY. Typically, film will require 1/2 to 2X less exposure if this process is used. Works well with Luckypan 100.
For the first developer, I used modified Dektol or D72 type developer. An energetic developer is needed for this step. Softworking negative developers wont work. Also a bit of silver solvent - sodium thiosulphate- is present.
The formula for this is:
Stock Dektol/D72- 250ml
Sodium Thiosulphate Crystal (10-hydrate)- 1.5 g
Sodium Hydroxide (Flake)-2 g
Water QS to 500ml
Develop films at 25C for 8-12 mins. (Sorry, can't provide the exact times for various films. Trial and error testing for whatever film you're using now).
Wash after development. Running water, thorough, and extensive. about 5 mins.
Bleach the developed image using this formula:
Water-700ml
Sodium Dichromate (Bichromate)-12 g
Sulphuric acid (concentrated)- 15ml
Water QS to 1000 ml
Bleaching will take around 3-5 minutes. This step can be done in daylight.
The black silver image must totally dissolve, leaving only the undeveloped silver halide.
After bleaching, the film will be heavily stained in yellow. Wash the film for 5 minutes to remove most of the stain. Clear it totally in this bath:
Water-700ml
Sodium Sulphite- 50 g
Water QS to 1000 ml.
When cleared, wash the film again for 5 minutes.
Next step is to reexpose the film. There are several ways to do this. One is ti place the film (still in the reel) in a white pan filled with water and place this under a 100W lamp and expose for 10 minutes each side. Or if working in daytime, just take the reel (in the pan) outdoors and leave under sunlight for a few minutes. Re-exposure is always more efficient with the film out of the reel, but when a Paterson-type reel is used, reloading wet film can be difficult.
Then follow with the 2nd developer step. Use print-strength Dektol this time. Don't use the first developer since it has some hypo and this can eat through the remaining halide, leaving less for development. Develop until the shadows develop totally black.
Follow with stop bath, and acid-hardening fixer (F-5 type). The fixer step doesn't really do much fixing as it does hardening.
Wash for 10 minutes in running water, photoflo, and string to dry.
The re-exposure and 2nd development steps can be OMITTED by using sulphide bath instead. The same bath used for two-step sepia toners. The bleached and cleared film is placed in a 5% sodium sulphide solution.
The resulting positive will be sepia (brown-black) in colour.
Rinse thoroughly for 10 minutes (make sure that sulphide is leached out totally), then put in stop bath and then fix for the usual time. Wash, photoflo, then dry.
DIY Reversal Formulae
I used to do reversal processing with regular BW film, using DIY chemistry.
Not all films are suitable. Some have grey bases which downgrade the clarity of the processed slide. Some have very clear bases which make brilliant slides. TriX, Plus-X have rather grey bases. The best film I used for reversal processing was Luckypan100, which as a very clear, low fog base.
TMax 100 also made fine reversal slides.
The first step is to expose the film properly. TMax may require 2x more increase in exposure (from ISO 100 to EI 50), but some reversal chemistry will actually boost the speed to about 2X. For isntance the defunct Kodak reversal sets for Panatomic X required an EI of 64 instead of the official ISO 32. In most cases a bit of overexposure may help- the extra bit of exposure wil make for denser negative images; more silver developed means more brilliant slides in the end.
The formula I used was DIY. Typically, film will require 1/2 to 2X less exposure if this process is used. Works well with Luckypan 100.
For the first developer, I used modified Dektol or D72 type developer. An energetic developer is needed for this step. Softworking negative developers wont work. Also a bit of silver solvent - sodium thiosulphate- is present.
The formula for this is:
Stock Dektol/D72- 250ml
Sodium Thiosulphate Crystal (10-hydrate)- 1.5 g
Sodium Hydroxide (Flake)-2 g
Water QS to 500ml
Develop films at 25C for 8-12 mins. (Sorry, can't provide the exact times for various films. Trial and error testing for whatever film you're using now).
Wash after development. Running water, thorough, and extensive. about 5 mins.
Bleach the developed image using this formula:
Water-700ml
Sodium Dichromate (Bichromate)-12 g
Sulphuric acid (concentrated)- 15ml
Water QS to 1000 ml
Bleaching will take around 3-5 minutes. This step can be done in daylight.
The black silver image must totally dissolve, leaving only the undeveloped silver halide.
After bleaching, the film will be heavily stained in yellow. Wash the film for 5 minutes to remove most of the stain. Clear it totally in this bath:
Water-700ml
Sodium Sulphite- 50 g
Water QS to 1000 ml.
When cleared, wash the film again for 5 minutes.
Next step is to reexpose the film. There are several ways to do this. One is ti place the film (still in the reel) in a white pan filled with water and place this under a 100W lamp and expose for 10 minutes each side. Or if working in daytime, just take the reel (in the pan) outdoors and leave under sunlight for a few minutes. Re-exposure is always more efficient with the film out of the reel, but when a Paterson-type reel is used, reloading wet film can be difficult.
Then follow with the 2nd developer step. Use print-strength Dektol this time. Don't use the first developer since it has some hypo and this can eat through the remaining halide, leaving less for development. Develop until the shadows develop totally black.
Follow with stop bath, and acid-hardening fixer (F-5 type). The fixer step doesn't really do much fixing as it does hardening.
Wash for 10 minutes in running water, photoflo, and string to dry.
The re-exposure and 2nd development steps can be OMITTED by using sulphide bath instead. The same bath used for two-step sepia toners. The bleached and cleared film is placed in a 5% sodium sulphide solution.
The resulting positive will be sepia (brown-black) in colour.
Rinse thoroughly for 10 minutes (make sure that sulphide is leached out totally), then put in stop bath and then fix for the usual time. Wash, photoflo, then dry.
Last edited:
Svitantti
Well-known
A friend just reported that he tried to process some Agfa film with those Ilford reversal process instructions. The result was totally clear film, so the sodium sulphite amount must have been too big. Another stip he tried without any of it, seemed quite fine.
My first b&w reversal roll is still not yet shot completely, so it will take some time I get to try it personally...
My first b&w reversal roll is still not yet shot completely, so it will take some time I get to try it personally...
Praxis Unitas
Established
My local shop in Italy has a lots of Scala. I just bought two rolls today to shoot Carnval in Venice this weekend. For those on this side of the pond, there's a place in the UK that develops Scala for 18 euros. I don't know it it's any good, but I'll try it out soon and report back...
http://www.agfascala.co.uk/
http://www.agfascala.co.uk/