squirrel$$$bandit
Veteran
zgeeRF
Established
Thanks for posting. Very nice, short and to the point.
I tried this a couple of months ago. Used a styrofoam container instead of the sink. I think the last rinse is definitely needed. The stabilizer crystalized on the negative in my hands.
I tried this a couple of months ago. Used a styrofoam container instead of the sink. I think the last rinse is definitely needed. The stabilizer crystalized on the negative in my hands.
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
That's excellent ... you make it look very uncomplicated which is what it is of course! It's interesting what you say about the kit being unclear about what to do after the stabiliser process ... I do the same as you exactly, it seems logical!
My current one litre tetenal kit has done 15 rolls of film now with no detectable reduction in quality. It's no more expensive than developing black and white in reality.
Thanks for doing this and posting the youtube link!
My current one litre tetenal kit has done 15 rolls of film now with no detectable reduction in quality. It's no more expensive than developing black and white in reality.
Thanks for doing this and posting the youtube link!
infrequent
Well-known
anyone has tried the naniwa colour kit from megaperls?
zgeeRF
Established
Keith, 15 rolls is impressive! are you doing any adjustments on the development times to compensate?
fbf
Well-known
great work!!! Thanks alot.
MCTuomey
Veteran
thanks for that!
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
I increased the times a little a few rolls ago but I'm not actually convinced that I needed to. I've also used the kit to cross process two rolls of Velvia which seemed to have no detrimental affect on the chemistry at all.
There was a link in a previous C41 thread to someone's blog where he claimed that he'd lost count of the rolls of C41 he'd deveoloped in a tetenal kit and is now using chemistry around a year old ... and posted results that looked fine.
That was my initial concern with the process ... if you believe what the accompanying literature tells you, you'll start to loose chemistry integrity at around eight rolls ... I certainly haven't found that!
squirrel$$$bandit
Veteran
You're all wecome! I think I'm up to 10 or 12 rolls and they still look good...somebody here, was it Petronius?, got up to 20 before it started looking bad.
squirrel$$$bandit
Veteran
If you're scanning, rather than printing from the negs, you can probably get away with a lot more uses...you can just increase the saturation a bit in your photo editing program.
The main advantage for me is that I no longer have to go to the mall (Ritz camera) or Wal-Mart, the only two C41 processing places left in town, to get my photos developed.
I have to try cross-processing Velvia!
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
Cross-processing was very interesting and gives some amazing colours ... I found it took me a while to work out how to scan the negs though. Heres two examples from my first attempts.
squirrel$$$bandit
Veteran
Wow, sweet. Those are really distinctive.
Are you scanning with a Nikon? I'm curious what settings you used...did you choose a particular film preset?
Are you scanning with a Nikon? I'm curious what settings you used...did you choose a particular film preset?
Lilserenity
Well-known
Excellent video, thank you for sharing. I think I could quite comfortably process my own C41's after watching that!
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
I haven't done any for a while and was remiss in not taking notes of how to get a decent result ... and it did give me a few headaches initially!
I scan with a V700 and from memory these were scanned as positives with no exposure compensation or presets etc then reversed in photo shop and worked on from there to adjust curves etc. Good fun and I liked the results.
I scan with a V700 and from memory these were scanned as positives with no exposure compensation or presets etc then reversed in photo shop and worked on from there to adjust curves etc. Good fun and I liked the results.
squirrel$$$bandit
Veteran
Believe me, you totally can!
Morca007
Matt
Thanks for this, it'll come in handy when/if the local labs close down.
charjohncarter
Veteran
Again thanks, that is very nicely presented. I may do it soon. I'm somewhat surprised at how quick it is and how few steps. I do 17 minutes (with 1 minute agitation), and 8 minute fix, plus 6 minute hypo-clear for B&W. I looks like this would be quicker.
maddoc
... likes film again.
I use it the Naniwa Colorkit N since some time now. It comes with instructions in English and is really easy to use.
zgeeRF
Established
Cross-processing was very interesting and gives some amazing colours ... I found it took me a while to work out how to scan the negs though. Heres two examples from my first attempts.
Nice colour you got with the cross-processing.
I tried it also on Astia and faced the scanning problems too. The negative looks nice and green to the eye without the ususal mask.
Here is an example with a little adjustment.
Freakscene
Obscure member
There are some chemical tests to monitor the stability and status of your C41 chemicals but they aren't really practical unless the output is critical and you have appropriate equipment. The simplest and most practical thing to do is to periodically develop a Fuji or Kodak Control Strip CN-16/C-41 in your chemistry and check it.
When I did my own C41 I usually got 25 rolls from a Tetenal kit without any sign of change (measured by densitometer) and it was good for about the same again with extended development. I would monitor visually for colour crossovers and other changes towards the end. Much easier than E6 QC.
Marty
When I did my own C41 I usually got 25 rolls from a Tetenal kit without any sign of change (measured by densitometer) and it was good for about the same again with extended development. I would monitor visually for colour crossovers and other changes towards the end. Much easier than E6 QC.
Marty