chris00nj
Young Luddite
Before recently acquiring an M3, I had two other manual cameras, the bessa r and the canonet ql17. On both cameras after you had shot the last frame, the winder moves partially and freezes as there is no more room to move. Then you have to rewind it.
My Leica operates differently. The film will obviously stop advancing, but the winder will move fully to recock the shutter. You have to notice than you are at your last frame and that the film has stopped advancing or you will get double/triple/quadrouple exposures on the last frame
Is this normal for Leicas?
My Leica operates differently. The film will obviously stop advancing, but the winder will move fully to recock the shutter. You have to notice than you are at your last frame and that the film has stopped advancing or you will get double/triple/quadrouple exposures on the last frame
Is this normal for Leicas?
Stu W
Well-known
I own two M3's and when they hit the end of the roll they can't be wound any further. Stu
ray*j*gun
Veteran
Same with my M6 as well as my Barnack Leicas.
Ray
Ray
Ronald_H
Don't call me Ron
Same with M2, you cannot recock at the end of the roll, unless the sprockets slip out of the holes, but you'll notice that, trust me.
John Lawrence
Well-known
All my Leicas are the same as the two posts above. Once the end of the film is reached, you can't adavnce any further.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
It is probably the "splines" of the take up shaft that are a bit tired. What happens is that the shaft rotates inside the take-up spool and the advance seem to work as usual, but the last frame is stationary in the filmgate. If the splines get to loose or doesn't grab the spool properly, you can end up with overlapping frames or frames butting up to each other.
Occasionally you can fix it by forcing the three metal prongs that surround the shaft with a screwdriver. It has to be done carefully though as you can also force them so much that it jams the take-up spool.
For some reason this seems to happen more often on M3's than on M2's - don't know why.
Occasionally you can fix it by forcing the three metal prongs that surround the shaft with a screwdriver. It has to be done carefully though as you can also force them so much that it jams the take-up spool.
For some reason this seems to happen more often on M3's than on M2's - don't know why.
chris00nj
Young Luddite
Tom, thanks for your help! Can I just buy a new takeup spool assembly in the classifieds or on eBay if I see one? Are ones for all the M cameras, the same?
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
The M2/M/M1 spools are for all practical purposes the same. If the springs in the take up shaft are worn, buying a new spool might not be enough though. It is a "pressure" fit and the inside diameter of a new or old spool is virtually the same - the wear seems to happen on the shaft.
You can try using some "emery" sandpaper on the inside of the spool. Don't do it in a circular motion as that still allows the springs to rotate - just roll up the emery paper to a tube and lightly sand the interior of the take up spool in a up/down motion. This will create "grooves" that the springs/splines can catch on to - but still allow you to pull the spool out. You could also consider a Quick Load spool as you don't have to remove that for loading/unloading.
There is really no big problem, even with a slipping spool - unless you start having overlapping images or having them butt right up against each other. just keep an eye on the film counter and when it hits 37-38 frames - reload.
You can try using some "emery" sandpaper on the inside of the spool. Don't do it in a circular motion as that still allows the springs to rotate - just roll up the emery paper to a tube and lightly sand the interior of the take up spool in a up/down motion. This will create "grooves" that the springs/splines can catch on to - but still allow you to pull the spool out. You could also consider a Quick Load spool as you don't have to remove that for loading/unloading.
There is really no big problem, even with a slipping spool - unless you start having overlapping images or having them butt right up against each other. just keep an eye on the film counter and when it hits 37-38 frames - reload.