MarkoKovacevic
Well-known
Help guys!
For some reason I cannot take good photos with my Zorki 4 RF. They are always shaky and blurry. [My rangefinder is correctly adjusted.]
Can you guys give me some tips on how to take better photos with a Zorki?
Here are photos from my Nikon SLR, which are much better. http://picasaweb.google.com/Markok765/GazaProtest
Maybe its because I shot them outside vs inside for the Zorki [i cant shoot inside a lot as the shutter doesn't work well under 1/60]
This is not a Anti-RF thing, I'm just looking for some help!
For some reason I cannot take good photos with my Zorki 4 RF. They are always shaky and blurry. [My rangefinder is correctly adjusted.]
Can you guys give me some tips on how to take better photos with a Zorki?
Here are photos from my Nikon SLR, which are much better. http://picasaweb.google.com/Markok765/GazaProtest
Maybe its because I shot them outside vs inside for the Zorki [i cant shoot inside a lot as the shutter doesn't work well under 1/60]
This is not a Anti-RF thing, I'm just looking for some help!
marke
Well-known
How about posting some examples with the Zorki. And let us know what shutter speeds you used.
Bike Tourist
Well-known
A suggestion: Post this in "Russian RF" forum, not "Philosophy . . ." for more attention.
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
Hmmm, an RF camera is not that different than a manual SLR, you still have to make sure if the shutter is really opening and closing at the set speed, then the aperture blades in the lens should be at whatever size it's set to when the shutter opens and closes.
Standard manual camera observation stuff like open the back and watch the shutter. I assume you've done this on your Zorki 4?
If those above seems normal, then you should be able to take pictures in low-light better than with an SLR because an RF camera doesn't have the mirror shake.
Like Mark said above, sample picture, shutter speed and film ISO please...
Standard manual camera observation stuff like open the back and watch the shutter. I assume you've done this on your Zorki 4?
If those above seems normal, then you should be able to take pictures in low-light better than with an SLR because an RF camera doesn't have the mirror shake.
Like Mark said above, sample picture, shutter speed and film ISO please...
raid
Dad Photographer
I know what you mean, Marko.
You are comparing photos [taken with the Nikon outdoors and at manageable shutter speeds] with photos taken indoors at slow shutter speeds and low light conditions.
A RF camera allows you slower shutter speeds when hand holding a camera, but this does not imply that your indoors photos at available light will be good. Use a faster speed indoors, and stabilize your camera on something. Open the curtains, and take photos with the subject standing beside the window. Window light can be very flattering. Use a lens hood.
I notice that with a RF camera I tend to get closer to people and objects than with a SLR camera. I also noticed that when I now use a SLR camera, I am getting clsoer to people. It must be the effect of having used a RF camera extensively.
You are comparing photos [taken with the Nikon outdoors and at manageable shutter speeds] with photos taken indoors at slow shutter speeds and low light conditions.
A RF camera allows you slower shutter speeds when hand holding a camera, but this does not imply that your indoors photos at available light will be good. Use a faster speed indoors, and stabilize your camera on something. Open the curtains, and take photos with the subject standing beside the window. Window light can be very flattering. Use a lens hood.
I notice that with a RF camera I tend to get closer to people and objects than with a SLR camera. I also noticed that when I now use a SLR camera, I am getting clsoer to people. It must be the effect of having used a RF camera extensively.
payasam
a.k.a. Mukul Dube
I have noticed no difference in my work with a film RF camera and a film SLR. It's my digital SLR which I cannot reliably use at slow speeds. As others have said, outdoors should not be compared with indoors.
Florian1234
it's just hide and seek
Maybe you use a too slow shutter speed or have shaky hands? 
MickH
Well-known
... or is it that you are having trouble with the focussing? I find an SLR much easier to focus with either the split-screen or the fresnel, rather than the focussing patch on an RF.
kuzano
Veteran
Take yourself out of the equation....
Take yourself out of the equation....
Put the camera on a tripod and use a cable release. Shaky and blurry shouldn't have much to do with camera operation, outside of focus. Shaky is camera movement most likely, while blurry can be movement or out of focus.
The first thing to isolate would be movement... which a tripod will verify. Then, if still blurry, your rangefinder may need adjusting. You shouldn't be trying to handhold below the reciprocal of your lens focal length, ie for a 50mm lens, slowest handheld shutter speed should be 1/50th to 1/60th.
That's a place to start. At 65, I am no longer as rigid as I used to be. Hardly ever shoot without a monopod unless I am shooting at least twice the reciprocal on shutter speed.
By that, I mean that I rarely hand hold at a shutter speed less than 1/125th on a 50mm lens, or at a shutter speed less than 1/400th on a 200mm lens. Even then, if circumstances allow, generally use a monopod whenever possible.
I carry a roll of duct tape and am not above duct taping my camera to a sign post or a tree (minimum 1 foot diameter) in the absence of a mono/tripod.
Take yourself out of the equation....
Put the camera on a tripod and use a cable release. Shaky and blurry shouldn't have much to do with camera operation, outside of focus. Shaky is camera movement most likely, while blurry can be movement or out of focus.
The first thing to isolate would be movement... which a tripod will verify. Then, if still blurry, your rangefinder may need adjusting. You shouldn't be trying to handhold below the reciprocal of your lens focal length, ie for a 50mm lens, slowest handheld shutter speed should be 1/50th to 1/60th.
That's a place to start. At 65, I am no longer as rigid as I used to be. Hardly ever shoot without a monopod unless I am shooting at least twice the reciprocal on shutter speed.
By that, I mean that I rarely hand hold at a shutter speed less than 1/125th on a 50mm lens, or at a shutter speed less than 1/400th on a 200mm lens. Even then, if circumstances allow, generally use a monopod whenever possible.
I carry a roll of duct tape and am not above duct taping my camera to a sign post or a tree (minimum 1 foot diameter) in the absence of a mono/tripod.
MCTuomey
Veteran
I carry a roll of duct tape and am not above duct taping my camera to a sign post or a tree (minimum 1 foot diameter) in the absence of a mono/tripod.
Mental note to watch for forgotten duct-taped cameras on trees in kuzano's neighborhood ...
russianRF
Fed 5C User
Kuzano: you are aware of the little "pods" that come with lashes, specifically for afixing your camera to a post of some kind?
There's the gorillapod, which you can find most anywhere. If you want to spend less money, there's this: http://www.rei.com/product/777250
I also like the bean bag pod, though it doesn't lash around anything.
There's the gorillapod, which you can find most anywhere. If you want to spend less money, there's this: http://www.rei.com/product/777250
I also like the bean bag pod, though it doesn't lash around anything.
aniMal
Well-known
A rangefinder is really the best way to get more steady, as you can ´see´ the exposure itself!
If you focus on one of the corners of the rangefinder patch just before you press the shutter, you will notice any movement. If there is a systematic movement, it might be the camera that has some vibration or kick. If not, you can start getting aware of how you need to hold & aim the camera to reduce shake. Its all personal - find your own way. You might also need to exhale partly before pressing the shutter, just as when shooting target.
I used to be able to do 1/4th with a 35mm with my M2, but now I notice I cannot reach that at all. Hopefully I will be back in that range again at some time in the future!
If you focus on one of the corners of the rangefinder patch just before you press the shutter, you will notice any movement. If there is a systematic movement, it might be the camera that has some vibration or kick. If not, you can start getting aware of how you need to hold & aim the camera to reduce shake. Its all personal - find your own way. You might also need to exhale partly before pressing the shutter, just as when shooting target.
I used to be able to do 1/4th with a 35mm with my M2, but now I notice I cannot reach that at all. Hopefully I will be back in that range again at some time in the future!
MarkoKovacevic
Well-known
I took some tripod shots, and some normal shots, so I'll upload them tonight!
MarkoKovacevic
Well-known
Heres a self portrait with the Zorki on a tripod: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=1805086&l=f0a93&id=645806995
