scottyb70
Well-known
I just bought a fresh roll of Arcos 100 for the first time and plan on trying it out. I only have HC-110 and TMax developer. I want to have fine grain.
I read to develop Arcos in HC-110 Dilution E for 7 minutes and with Tmax 1 + 9 @ 10.5 minutes. Will the Tmax give me a finer grain because of the longer time development? Is there another hc-110 dilution that would be better?
I read that some people don't agitate according to the manufacturers recommendations. Should I agitate differently to get better results.?
I read to develop Arcos in HC-110 Dilution E for 7 minutes and with Tmax 1 + 9 @ 10.5 minutes. Will the Tmax give me a finer grain because of the longer time development? Is there another hc-110 dilution that would be better?
I read that some people don't agitate according to the manufacturers recommendations. Should I agitate differently to get better results.?
T
Todd.Hanz
Guest
Acros won't give you much grain to speak of. I use Xtol 1:1 or FG-7, not wanting much grain of course. If you want grain shoot someting like Tri-X at 1600.
Here's an example of Acros shot at 100...not alot of grain eh?
Todd
Here's an example of Acros shot at 100...not alot of grain eh?
Todd
venchka
Veteran
What Todd said.
I will vouch for Xtol in general and Xtol 1:3 with continuous agitation in particular. Alas, I haven't developed any Fuji Acros yet. I have developed Ilford Pan-F+ and HP5+ and the grain is, hmmmmmmm, not there? That's the best way to describe it. No grain.
I will vouch for Xtol in general and Xtol 1:3 with continuous agitation in particular. Alas, I haven't developed any Fuji Acros yet. I have developed Ilford Pan-F+ and HP5+ and the grain is, hmmmmmmm, not there? That's the best way to describe it. No grain.
wde60
Warren
The Xtol looks great.
I have had good luck with Rodinal 1:50
I have used HC110 with Acros
I think you will get pretty smooth grain and good sharpness with this film with most developers. I would try to bring out some smooth grays by using a fairly dilute mixture of HC110 and agitate according to the manufacturers directions.
I have had good luck with Rodinal 1:50
I have used HC110 with Acros
I think you will get pretty smooth grain and good sharpness with this film with most developers. I would try to bring out some smooth grays by using a fairly dilute mixture of HC110 and agitate according to the manufacturers directions.
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venchka
Veteran
Warren,
Stunning! Thanks for sharing.
Stunning! Thanks for sharing.
scottyb70
Well-known
Thanks I think I will use the hc 110 at a dilution of E.
nikon_sam
Shooter of Film...
I've been shooting Neopan 400 in the 120 format and developing in Rodinal 1+50 and really liking that...I've been thinking of trying some Acros 100...you guys have convinced me to go get some...
Nice work you guys...
Nice work you guys...
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
If you are going to shoot a lot of ACROS, I would recommend that you start making your own developer. I use home made Beutler (just google the formula) - easy to mix and works extremely well on ACROS/Plus X/Neopan SS/Pan F etc. The formula was concocted by Willy Beutler for Leica in the 50's. It was done to show off what was possible to achieve with 35mm (it was still known as "miniature film" then) and Leica's lenses.
The components are quite basic and you can get them from the Photographers Formulary and other supplier. Nothing really toxic involved and it is cheap to boot.
With films like EFKE KB 14 and KB 17 - the grain is virtually non existent and it will give very good sharpness.
I occasionally use it for Tri X and XX - but then the grain is noticable here.
You can modify to suit your style of shooting too. I usually run it as 1:1:10 (1 part A,1 part B and 10 parts of water) fir 6.5 to 8 min, depending on the film. For a slight "push" - just do it 1:1:8 - a bit more contrast too.
If you tag "EK 5231" on Flickr there are a bunch of shots done with Beutler and Kodaks + X movie stock, rated at 80 iso. You can also tag "Beutler" and get some more variations. Lots of people use it.
The components are quite basic and you can get them from the Photographers Formulary and other supplier. Nothing really toxic involved and it is cheap to boot.
With films like EFKE KB 14 and KB 17 - the grain is virtually non existent and it will give very good sharpness.
I occasionally use it for Tri X and XX - but then the grain is noticable here.
You can modify to suit your style of shooting too. I usually run it as 1:1:10 (1 part A,1 part B and 10 parts of water) fir 6.5 to 8 min, depending on the film. For a slight "push" - just do it 1:1:8 - a bit more contrast too.
If you tag "EK 5231" on Flickr there are a bunch of shots done with Beutler and Kodaks + X movie stock, rated at 80 iso. You can also tag "Beutler" and get some more variations. Lots of people use it.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
This is with ACROS 100 - developed in Beutler 1:1:10 for 7 minutes. Zeiss ZM Biogon 21f4.5. For you car nuts - it is a HRG 1500 from the late 40's.
Cale Arthur
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I've been enjoying Acros @200 in Diafine lately..
malcolmma
Newbie
I have used D76 1:1/1:3、HC100 F & Rodinal 1:100 to develop acros100. I think HC100 F, D76 1:3 and Rodinal 1:100 is better choice.
acros100 EI100 Rodinal 1:100 18m@20C
acros100 D76 1:3 17m@20C
acros100 EI80 HC110 F 11m15s@20C
acros100 EI100 Rodinal 1:100 18m@20C
acros100 D76 1:3 17m@20C
acros100 EI80 HC110 F 11m15s@20C
notturtle
Well-known
whatever you use, use it diluted to improve acutance. This film can look soft despite high resolution due to very fine grain. Either sound very viable as either dilute HC110 and Tmax give reasonable acutance. long term I agree with Tom A, an acutance developer is the way to go unless you want super creamy soft looking images. The problem comes when you shoot things that need to have edges and the image has little presence (at least in my experience).