pushing c41 bw?

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mh2000

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so I just ordered my first set of unicolor c41 development chems... plan to use bw400cn and xp-2 super. reading the instructions for the c41 kit is says that you can push process using it. when I asked my prolab about pushing the films a couple years ago they said it didn't work.

anyone have any experience here? which film pushes better?

thanks!

here's the sheet:

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/pdf/Unicolor C-41 Powder 1 Liter.pdf

also, I've read some people get good results with extended times and room temp developing, tips?
 
mh2000 said:
so I just ordered my first set of unicolor c41 development chems... plan to use bw400cn and xp-2 super. reading the instructions for the c41 kit is says that you can push process using it. when I asked my prolab about pushing the films a couple years ago they said it didn't work.

anyone have any experience here? which film pushes better?

thanks!

here's the sheet:

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/pdf/Unicolor C-41 Powder 1 Liter.pdf

also, I've read some people get good results with extended times and room temp developing, tips?
Click to expand...

Both chromogenic films are already capable of variable EI, tolerate some underexposure (when exposed at EI 800 or so), and produce usable negatives WITH NORMAL PROCESSING. That's part of their design.

FWIW, I did try to pushprocess the old Kodak TCN 400, but the film came out with a strong yellow (instead of the faint orange-brown) mask
 
thanks, but I've shot both film extensively and am not satisfied with either at ISO 800.

Did the darker mask effect scanning and final image?
 
I push BW400CN in 120 size to 800 on a regular basis, and ask my (pro) lab in Copenhagen to give the film a +2 push when processed (yes, NOT a +1 push).

The results are gorgeous. See my flickr for some examples, such as "Nature is Big".

Good luck - experiment!
 
I have not had good experiences with pushing XP1 or XP2, as it just seems to block up the otherwise "bullet-proof" highlights. If there are no bright highlights, as in relatively flat lighting, works better IMHO.

Somebody at Photo.net was doing experiments a couple years ago with room-temperature C-41 processing, checking times and trying added chemicals to compensate. I don't recall any firm solution (sorry about the pun). But it is a cool idea (groan).
 
mh2000 said:
thanks sleepy head! I'll try that first. some very nice photos on your flickr site!
Click to expand...

You're welcome - I can just add that I settled on Kodak BW400CN over Ilford XP2 Super because being able to push the film to around 800 is important to me so I can hand hold my Mamiya 6 reliably in overcast weather (the norm in Denmark) and indoors (grain increase isn't an issue for me because it's 6x6).

I tested two rolls of XP2 Super at 640 ASA and asking my lab to process as above, a +2 stop push, and the shadow detail was not as good as with BW400CN. Also the film seemed to respond by increasing contrast (not surprising), but BW400CN really doesn't increase as much on pushing, which is nice.
 
yeah, I've found the same, BW400CN is much better film IMO, but I bought a few rolls of XP-2 Super for my Holga 120 GN (don't laugh!) because it was cheaper.
 
Thanks for the info, Yaron; interesting. I had not tried pushing the Kodak film.
 
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