rHytHm
Member
Thanks in advance.
First off, curious to know what people have their lens detection set as? I read there was a place to buy a "thing" that can bit code with ink? I only ask because none of my crons are bit coded. Anyone know about such a thing?
Second, I do not have any IR filters, are there work arounds until I get the IR filters besides converting to b&w? I noticed you can't change sharpening, color saturation, and contrast when shooting in DNG mode. Is this correct or am I missing something?
Lastly, Is it not possible to change ISO from menu mode instead you have to go to set while previewing an image?
I am using an m8 starting serial # 332 with latest firmware 2.004 in discreet?
Any M8 users care to share some advice to a newbie?
Thanks again!
First off, curious to know what people have their lens detection set as? I read there was a place to buy a "thing" that can bit code with ink? I only ask because none of my crons are bit coded. Anyone know about such a thing?
Second, I do not have any IR filters, are there work arounds until I get the IR filters besides converting to b&w? I noticed you can't change sharpening, color saturation, and contrast when shooting in DNG mode. Is this correct or am I missing something?
Lastly, Is it not possible to change ISO from menu mode instead you have to go to set while previewing an image?
I am using an m8 starting serial # 332 with latest firmware 2.004 in discreet?
Any M8 users care to share some advice to a newbie?
Thanks again!
Bill Blackwell
Leica M Shooter
Your love-hate experience with the M8 will be much more 'love' than 'hate' if you have your lenses coded. The lens info will show up on the exif data on your digital negative. It is highly recommended that you code all lenses wider than 35mm (the firmware will correct the color banding - longer lenses do not have this problem).
There are at least three options for 6-bit coding - (1) Leica can do them, but plan on being without your lens for about four weeks and it will cost you about $150 apiece; (2) You can send them to John Milich in New York ( JM [at] milich [dot] com ) at a cost of $25 a piece (plan on about the same wait time); or (3) you can use temporary coding by using one of these:
http://www.popflash.com/index.php?p=product&id=2681&parent=38
Do not waste your time shooting your M8 without IR/CUT filters. Once again your M8 experience will be much more 'love' than 'hate' if you use these filters - but do not stack them with UVa, or other filters.
DNG is your digital negative. Use Photoshop or some other DNG compatible digital processing software. You should be able to change white balance, contrast, sharpen, or whatever.
The ISO can only be changed in the menu. Your only other option is to set the Auto or Program mode to use a minimum shutter speed and a maximum ISO.
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achi4
Member
I assume you are shooting in RAW, since you cannot change sharpening, color saturation and so on.
Shooting uncoded lenses without UV/IR filters can result in some black items (some fabrics especially) being rendered as magenta tinted instead of neutral black and green foliage in sunlight as too yellow. Also skin tones can be too magenta (sunburn effect!)
Depending on which program you use for developing RAW files there are some workarounds, from simple to very complex using Lab mode in photoshop. There is a huge amount of information to be found on the Leica users forum on this. None of these are as good as using the filters. I have made some profiles for use in Adobe Lightroom and /or Adobe Camera Raw and there are profiles for use in Capture One also to be found in Leica users Forum by prforming a search.
The coding of lenses allows exif info to be saved in the file and also for the camera to correct vignetting and cyan color cast in the corners of images shot with a UV/IR filter.
With lenses of 35mm and up I haven't really found the need to code, and in the few cases where I have wanted to with 35mm summicron I have used a program called corner fix obtainable as a free downloed from sourceforge.
Lastly, changing iso is indeed not very handy with the M8. Because you are using firmware 2.004, it is possible to use AUTOISO, whereby you can can specify the max iso value the camera can choose and the lowest shutter speed you want. You can then save the settings as a user profile. For example max iso as 640 and slowest shutter speed as 1/30. In my experience the camera will choose the lowest ISO possible.
Let me know if I can clarify anything,
Maurice
Shooting uncoded lenses without UV/IR filters can result in some black items (some fabrics especially) being rendered as magenta tinted instead of neutral black and green foliage in sunlight as too yellow. Also skin tones can be too magenta (sunburn effect!)
Depending on which program you use for developing RAW files there are some workarounds, from simple to very complex using Lab mode in photoshop. There is a huge amount of information to be found on the Leica users forum on this. None of these are as good as using the filters. I have made some profiles for use in Adobe Lightroom and /or Adobe Camera Raw and there are profiles for use in Capture One also to be found in Leica users Forum by prforming a search.
The coding of lenses allows exif info to be saved in the file and also for the camera to correct vignetting and cyan color cast in the corners of images shot with a UV/IR filter.
With lenses of 35mm and up I haven't really found the need to code, and in the few cases where I have wanted to with 35mm summicron I have used a program called corner fix obtainable as a free downloed from sourceforge.
Lastly, changing iso is indeed not very handy with the M8. Because you are using firmware 2.004, it is possible to use AUTOISO, whereby you can can specify the max iso value the camera can choose and the lowest shutter speed you want. You can then save the settings as a user profile. For example max iso as 640 and slowest shutter speed as 1/30. In my experience the camera will choose the lowest ISO possible.
Let me know if I can clarify anything,
Maurice
rHytHm
Member
I am indeed using Lightroom 2.0 and Adobe Camera Raw ACR.
25 bux a pop to have the guy in NY do the bit code isn't bad. How is the kit to do it yourself? Any good?
I specifically have 35 cron asph, 50 cron rigid and 90 cron (i think version 3, made in germany right before the asph came out) that need to be bit coded. So nothing wider than 35.
I have noticed already some shots have more majenta. Almost like a bad case of CA.
My only gripe with the IR filters is that I also use a m6ttl and having to switch lenses and swap filters is an annoyance so I was hoping maybe the bit coding would help the firmware correct some of the issues.
25 bux a pop to have the guy in NY do the bit code isn't bad. How is the kit to do it yourself? Any good?
I specifically have 35 cron asph, 50 cron rigid and 90 cron (i think version 3, made in germany right before the asph came out) that need to be bit coded. So nothing wider than 35.
I have noticed already some shots have more majenta. Almost like a bad case of CA.
My only gripe with the IR filters is that I also use a m6ttl and having to switch lenses and swap filters is an annoyance so I was hoping maybe the bit coding would help the firmware correct some of the issues.
achi4
Member
Bit coding will not correct the magenta cast. For that you need the filter.
In my experience 50 and 90 don't need coding except for the exif data.
35 cron rarely needs coding and my 35 lux pre asph can't be easily coded. Between it and my coded 35 cron asph I see no real difference in most situations.
If you go to Adobe Labs and download the DNG pofile editor you can create profiles which will tide you over until you get the filters. I have found they are a must for correct color rendition using the M8. Anything else is time consuming and not really satisfactory.
maurice
In my experience 50 and 90 don't need coding except for the exif data.
35 cron rarely needs coding and my 35 lux pre asph can't be easily coded. Between it and my coded 35 cron asph I see no real difference in most situations.
If you go to Adobe Labs and download the DNG pofile editor you can create profiles which will tide you over until you get the filters. I have found they are a must for correct color rendition using the M8. Anything else is time consuming and not really satisfactory.
maurice
Bill Blackwell
Leica M Shooter
If this is as bad as it gets you should consider yourself fortunate. You need the IR/Cut filters for the M8 - like it or not, this is a must have.
Fortunately, your lenses will work just fine un-coded. Personally, I bit the bullet and had every one of my lenses coded between John Milich (CV and Zeiss lenses) and Leica all at once. Waiting was a PITA, but now they're permanently done.
The coding kit will work just fine. Personally, I would at least do that.
When you use your M6TTL, simply remove the filter (or leave it on and shoot B&W).
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rHytHm
Member
Yeah, I only shoot b&w with the m6ttl and self develop.
Since the IR filter is a must, where do you guys suggest getting them?
Bill Blackwell
Leica M Shooter
Since the IR filter is a must, where do you guys suggest getting them?
Look here:
http://www.popflash.com/index.php?p...parent=5&mid=0&search_in=all&search_str=&pg=3
Ricko of Fla
Established
Did you buy your M8 from a dealer, If you register you camera on line, Leica will send you two filters for free.
I think there can be a better place to buy a filter, it's best to shop around IMHO
I think there can be a better place to buy a filter, it's best to shop around IMHO
rHytHm
Member
I bought it used from adorama. I believe they are an official dealer. Don't know if it being used makes a difference though?
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
Used would not qualify for free filters, unless the original owner never claimed them. You will have to get a bunch of B&W 486 filters.
rHytHm
Member
Have you guys seen a difference between the bw filters and the leica filters?
I also wanted to double check that uv/ir filter should not make a difference when shooting b&w film? That way I don't have to keep screwing on and off the filters as I switch lenses between the m8/m6?
SteveRD1
Well-known
Speaking of filters. I have a B&W and three Leica UV/IR's and to me, the B&W seems to give me a warmer tone. The Leica IR's tend to give me a colder tone.