Quick ? on OM cameras.

I have an M2 and I find the OM camera a great companion to Leitz. Close focus and the ability to mount long lenses are reasons for an OM yet it is still very much simple and mechanical in nature. I was surprised when my M2 came to find that it was actually a bit huskier in size than my OM3. The overall dimensions of the OM are greater than the M because of the mirror box and prism but the body itself is slimmer. The OM3-4 models have a wonderful spot meter that I use with slide film and with tricky lighting. The M holds down b&w work. I've used the OM just by itself metering scenes trying to learn about light variation, trying to improve my lighting judgement for when I use b&w and "sunny 16".

The OM3ti version is actually the better model and it is cheaper to boot I believe. When you loose power the only thing you loose is your metering, the camera keeps going. I would compare the OM3s to the M6 or MP but with a good spot meter thrown in.

I turn my camera off by pulling the batteries. 🙂 Its the only way to completely avoid battery drain, at least with my model. I keep the camera on B when not in use but pull the batteries when not using the camera for a while. I get about 4 rolls average per set of batteries this way.

Cheers,
 
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I've always loved the OM's. Well built, great lenses. But I find the camera too small for my hands to be comfortable...but, adding the winder transforms the whole camera and it feels just right.
 
Pickett Wilson said:
I've always loved the OM's. Well built, great lenses. But I find the camera too small for my hands to be comfortable...but, adding the winder transforms the whole camera and it feels just right.
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I can't imagine a better ergonomic design that an OM camera with its winder. Thumb firing horizontal and vertical, outstanding grip for walking while gripping the grip by finger tips, perfect balance for hand weight control. Perfection.

There was actually a pricy hand strap for the winder, from which once I bought only one sample that now is mounted on my Mamiya tlr grip, and which I intend to reproduce a copy at home for my second Tlr. Now, these straps are selling by Oly Usa at $50 per unit and worth every penny I am not going to spend.

Cheers,
Ruben
 
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I wouldn't bet on an OM-3Ti being (much) cheaper ... there were so few OM-3 bodies made, they are always stratospherically priced, whether Ti or not.

I also pretty much leave the OM-2 meter on except when it's on the shelf. But ... when you look through the viewfinder you can tell whether the meter is on or off by the display or absence thereof. How hard is that? Even with the meter on, the batteries last a good long time, and are cheap.

Jeeze, the nits you guys can pick! 🙄

I have never bothered much with the difference between the OM-1 and OM-2; both take Zuiko lenses, both are good, solid and reliable. The exception is the OM-2 lacks mirror lock-up, and the OM-1 lacks AE. They're small, carry one of each. :angel:
 
Trius said:
I wouldn't bet on an OM-3Ti being (much) cheaper ... there were so few OM-3 bodies made, they are always stratospherically priced, whether Ti or not.

I also pretty much leave the OM-2 meter on except when it's on the shelf. But ... when you look through the viewfinder you can tell whether the meter is on or off by the display or absence thereof. How hard is that? Even with the meter on, the batteries last a good long time, and are cheap.

Jeeze, the nits you guys can pick! 🙄

I have never bothered much with the difference between the OM-1 and OM-2; both take Zuiko lenses, both are good, solid and reliable. The exception is the OM-2 lacks mirror lock-up, and the OM-1 lacks AE. They're small, carry one of each. :angel:
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Here we are having a good argument about which OM is better and you come along and apply all this logic ... sheesh Earl! 😛
 
OM3s I believe go for about $600ish the last time I checked - and that was one in good condition. My own example has lost a fair bit of brass so it must be fairly cheaper yet. A beater M2 or M3 is going to set you back $600 anyway and there is no metering, spot or otherwise. I think a small premium for the premium OM is a small extra price to pay... 😉
 
I like the match needle metering a lot on my OM1n, and it's "zen" that is so right.
My Om 2 tends to get AE use becasue it's there - didn't know about the brilliance of the quick shot option..

The spot meter in my OM2SP, gets use but it's film advance doesn't feel as nice. My Om4 has the multi spot capacity for really critical work, but more often I use it in AE mode.

I find that if the camera has a feature I can end up thinking too much about whether I should be using it, which can detract from other important aspects. But sometimes, just sometimes a mulitspot meter with highlight bias can save the day!

In the end it's the joy of the zuikos and the bodies that fit so well together that will always see me with one of Maitani's masterpieces at hand.
 
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Never, never expected so many great responses to my simple question! Thanks guys! I guess when you consider all its great points a little on-off switch is a very minor point. Thanks to all, keep on posting this is very informative and Fun.
 
Just a couple of comments from a long-time OM user (OM-1 & OM-2n)

Great cameras - both of them.

They were the 'issue' cameras for UPI years ago.

John Hermanson does great work on OMs at fair prices
(Think you can get your M3 CLA'd for less than $150?)

Try to find a Series 2 viewing screen... SO MUCH brighter.

Failing that, get an aftermarket bright screen.

Have John calibrate your meter to match the new screen.

Enjoy one of the greatest camera designs ever.

OK... I guess that was more than a couple. :angel:
 
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Stewart: I've never found the display very distracting, but the scale (showing shutter speed) does take up some real estate in that big, bright finder. I guess a small, discreet numerical readout of the shutter speed at the bottom of the screen would be a more elegant implementation (for some), but as the OM-2 was introduced circa 1976, I'm not sure if it was really possible. Certainly it would have increased the cost enough to hurt sales.

John,

Agreed. Anything that requires inordinate contemplation (except during familiarization phase) is not helpful. While I would love to have an OM-4 (non-Ti), I figure anything requiring a spot meter is really a 4x5 shot ... unless I don't have the 4x5 at hand. 😀
 
Trius said:
Stewart: I've never found the display very distracting, but the scale (showing shutter speed) does take up some real estate in that big, bright finder. I guess a small, discreet numerical readout of the shutter speed at the bottom of the screen would be a more elegant implementation (for some), but as the OM-2 was introduced circa 1976, I'm not sure if it was really possible. Certainly it would have increased the cost enough to hurt sales.

John,

Agreed. Anything that requires inordinate contemplation (except during familiarization phase) is not helpful. While I would love to have an OM-4 (non-Ti), I figure anything requiring a spot meter is really a 4x5 shot ... unless I don't have the 4x5 at hand. 😀
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It’s just me, I find everything distracting, took years the come to terms with the match-needle in the om1, and mine are pre MD units from 1972, the ones where the escarpment pokes through the mirror-box floor
 
You can't spread false info about OM cameras when Earl's around, he's our resident OM sheriff around here 😉

I believe this is true for OM-4 also, but on my OM-3, it went to sleep mode after a while, so the next time I am ready to shoot, I just wake the meter up by pushing on the reset dial with my right index finger.

And yes, the 2-13 screen I have on mine is just awesome. It makes the viewfinder as bright as RF cameras (with fast lenses on).... Earl, you're going to hate me again, but good luck finding one of those without crazy price attached to it 🙂
 
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Coming back to your original question, Tony, just put the shutter on B or 1/60 to turn the 4 off.

OM1, OM2, OM3, OM4, I like all of them 🙂 Actually prefer the OM4 over the 4TI, it brasses nicely ...

Cheers,

Roland.
 
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