A Little Help w/ TriX and Rodinal

wjlapier

wjlapier

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I have my first roll of TriX to develop and bought some Rodinal. The bottle doesn't say how to mix it for ~ 400ml. I usually use my chemicals at a little more than 375ml, and would like to keep things as simple as possible to get to know TriX and Rodinal. Could someone help with mixing ratios for Rodinal, and agitation times? I shot the roll at 400ISO using a P+S Olympus if that means anything.

I have read lots of the post about Rodinal and the stand method, but would prefer to not do that just yet.

TIA. Bill
 
Mix it at 1:50. I dev'd Tri-x with 500 ml, using 490 ml water and 10 ml Rodinal.
Beginning with slowmotion agitation the first 30sec. and very slow agitation for 5 sec. each minute.
Rodinal is cheap so the ml. are of no concern.

It's a better choice to use D76 for Tri-x, same sharpness, better grain, good scans.
 
Yes 1+50 is good, so for 400 ml 8 ml Rodinal plus water to make up 400 ml. Agitate slowly 1 minute, then agitate slowly 10 secs once every 2 minutes for a total time of 11 minutes at 20°C, the film will be a bit thin, as the true EI for Tri X in Rodinal is about 250, but it will be printable.
 
Thanx--let me see if I got this right. 1+25--For each part of 25ml water I add 1ml Rodinal. So, for 375ml I'd add 15ml of Rodinal and develop for 7 minutes according to the massive dev chart? Use my usual agitation like I do for D76--30 secs initial, 10/5 sec per 60/30 secs?

I just read the second reply. So 1+50. Thanx
 
mfogiel said:
Yes 1+50 is good, so for 400 ml 8 ml Rodinal plus water to make up 400 ml. Agitate slowly 1 minute, then agitate slowly 10 secs once every 2 minutes for a total time of 11 minutes at 20°C, the film will be a bit thin, as the true EI for Tri X in Rodinal is about 250, but it will be printable.
Click to expand...

A couple fo things in your paragraph I'm not aware of.

"the film will be a bit thin"

What does this mean?

"true EI ...is about 250..."

True EI means you expose at 250, but develop at 400, if using Rodinal? I'd like to stick with TriX and Rodinal for a while--I have 10 rolls and might get more. I don't think I can change the ISO in the P+S I used, but if I use my M3 I can with a meter. But if I wanted to shoot at 400 because I need the speed, what would the different developing time?
 
My process is a little different:

This is for 35mm Tri-X film, but the prnciple is the same for other films just different times.

1) I first perma-wash my film for one minute with constant agitation: which adds a little sodium sulfite prior to developing. What this does is it acts like a restrainer so your highlights do not get blocked up and then it extends the development of the midtones. It also controls the grain-size. Chrome C does a similar thing.

2) Cold-water rinse and 68 degrees for one minute with continous agitation.

3) Prior to doing your pre-developing rinse, make sure you have your developer ready. I mix it 1:25 so for a 4 35mm reeels I mix it about 1 1/4 ounce to 30 ounces of water at 67-68 degrees. I process the film for 10 minutes: I agitate the film continously for the first minute, then 10 seconds once every minute. My agitation rotation is not too fast or too slow.

Rodinal's developing times for Tri-X is 7 minutes, but I develop for 10 minutes because of the reaction of the perma wash.

4) I use water for my stop bath for 1 minute contimous agitation.

5) Fix--standard fix times.

Hope that helps,

:s:
 
I've been wanting to try the standing method with Rodinal...So if I'm shooting Neopan 400 @ 320 I would still develop it for 1 hour with the 1+100 dilution...???
Will I see a huge difference when viewing the neg or will I see it during only when printing...???
I have a few rolls I could try this on and it sounds interesting...
Thanks...
 
Thanx alot. Everyone has been very helpful. I'm going to develop my roll now and will report back how I did and maybe share a pic or two.
 
No. No. No!

1:50 is NOT 490+10. 490+10 = 1:49.

1:50 is 500 + 10.
1:25 is 250+10.
1:100 is 500+5.

And multiples to make up enough chemicals to cover the film in your tank. By the way, just make up 500ml and use enough to cover your film and then some. If you have a few ml's left over, no big deal.

Good luck!
 
I did a roll of Tri-X 120 yesterday. 20 mins at 20 degree's C dilution 1+100 (650ml (plastic tank) divided by 101 = 6.44ml Rodinal.

Constant agitation for the first minute and then 5 inversions every minute.

Results here..

AgfaSI_TriX_paR100_379_2.jpg
 
This thread http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61643 is well worth a look ... it has some of the easiest to understand explanations by P Lynn Miller regarding one hour 1+100 stand development with Rodinal that there's been IMO.

I tried this last week and was quite impressed with the results ... film was Tri-X by the way!



ash_3.jpg


ash_0.jpg
 
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I agree with venchka. 1:50 is one unit of developer added to 50 units of water. For me and my tank size, that is 500 ml of water at the correct temperature and then I add 10 ml of Rodinal. Its a no brainer and the math is WAY easier. Otherwise I would have to measure 9.8 ml and top up to a TOTAL volume of 500 with water. Much harder in my opinion....
 
John Bragg said:
1:50 is one unit of developer added to 50 units of water.
Click to expand...

Would be better to describe this as 1+50 = one unit of developer added to 50 units of water

1:50 = 1/50 means that the developer should be 1/50 of some total. This total amount, I assume, is the solution you pour into the tank?

Not that you will see any difference in the developed film in this case, but if you have to mix by, say, 1:3 or 1+3 the error would kill the film if you get it wrong.
 
At 1:100 or 1+100 it doesn't make much difference. I always mix 1+99 but treat it as 1:100 in terms of development time. At that dilution, 20 minutes is fine and I have moved to NO agitation after the first 30 seconds. I believe in minimum agitation with Rodinal. So far I have had no adverse effects and I think the grain and sharpness are a bit better. My next roll will be at 1:49.

At the higher dilution (1:100) development is to completion, IMO. Stand development, ie anything longer than about 20 minutes, is probably useless, maybe harmful as longer wet time might affect grain and/or sharpness.
 
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