KGB-Spion
Member
Dear Users, I have a question -
on my industar-22 there are some numbers engraved an I don`t understand them :
first - on the front, there is written : Industar-22 f=... , and the following numbers :
3,5 4 5,6 8 11 16 ... of course I know waht they stand for.
But now :
when You take a look at the top of the Camera , You wil realize , that the same numbers are engraved again - bur twice. In the middle, there is the distance marking (little black arrow) but it looks like :
16 11 8 5,6 4 3,5 "ARROW" 3,5 4 5,6 8 11 16
What do I have to do with these numbers ?
on my industar-22 there are some numbers engraved an I don`t understand them :
first - on the front, there is written : Industar-22 f=... , and the following numbers :
3,5 4 5,6 8 11 16 ... of course I know waht they stand for.
But now :
when You take a look at the top of the Camera , You wil realize , that the same numbers are engraved again - bur twice. In the middle, there is the distance marking (little black arrow) but it looks like :
16 11 8 5,6 4 3,5 "ARROW" 3,5 4 5,6 8 11 16
What do I have to do with these numbers ?
QUAsit
Established
This is focusing distance mark and DoF scale
KGB-Spion
Member
A - OK - so how do I use it ?
I mean - should I pay any attention to those numbers ?
(16 11 8 5,6 4 3,5 3,5 4 5,6 8 11 16)?
I mean - should I pay any attention to those numbers ?
(16 11 8 5,6 4 3,5 3,5 4 5,6 8 11 16)?
NathanJD
Well-known
To expand on the above, the arrow points at the distance scale to tell you the distance that is in focus and the numbers that reach out tell you what will be in focus at that aperture. so as you see, the higher the f number the more that is in focus 
what you'll also notice is that the further away something is the more stuff in front and behind it will be in focus. to test this just look at the f2 markers - if you set the distance to 2 meters you'll see that not much outside of a meter either way meets the two 2 markings but if you set the arrow to 10 meters you'll see that about 4-6 meters either way stays in focus.
this is useful in a number of ways - firstly if you set your aperture to f16 and then set the infinity (sideways figure 8) on the far right 16 on the barrel when you check the left hand 16 you'll see that it lines up with a number (my summicron comes out at 2.5 meters) that way i can shoot anything at f16 from 2.5 meters and infinity and it will be in focus. or at least what passed for being in focus when your lens was made.
secondly using this system you can guess what aperture will allow you to make a long object in focus in your picture by guessing how close it comes to your camera.
you can also look down and set the focus distance when shooting street photos without having to take your camera to your eye.
this all takes guesswork to do off the cuff but it's something you pick up with practice like learning to judge exposure without a meter.
what you'll also notice is that the further away something is the more stuff in front and behind it will be in focus. to test this just look at the f2 markers - if you set the distance to 2 meters you'll see that not much outside of a meter either way meets the two 2 markings but if you set the arrow to 10 meters you'll see that about 4-6 meters either way stays in focus.
this is useful in a number of ways - firstly if you set your aperture to f16 and then set the infinity (sideways figure 8) on the far right 16 on the barrel when you check the left hand 16 you'll see that it lines up with a number (my summicron comes out at 2.5 meters) that way i can shoot anything at f16 from 2.5 meters and infinity and it will be in focus. or at least what passed for being in focus when your lens was made.
secondly using this system you can guess what aperture will allow you to make a long object in focus in your picture by guessing how close it comes to your camera.
you can also look down and set the focus distance when shooting street photos without having to take your camera to your eye.
this all takes guesswork to do off the cuff but it's something you pick up with practice like learning to judge exposure without a meter.
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KGB-Spion
Member
Damn,
I am that stupid ...
OK - so if I want to zoom on an object, first I have to do, is to adjust the rangefinder ! That`s the black arrow in the middle - right ?
OK - now I see, that the numbers 3,5 4 5,6 ...
So how can I imagine, what will be in focus, too ? for example, I set the aberature on the objective on "3,5" --> So what will be in focus, when my object is 2 m away ?
I am that stupid ...
OK - so if I want to zoom on an object, first I have to do, is to adjust the rangefinder ! That`s the black arrow in the middle - right ?
OK - now I see, that the numbers 3,5 4 5,6 ...
So how can I imagine, what will be in focus, too ? for example, I set the aberature on the objective on "3,5" --> So what will be in focus, when my object is 2 m away ?
NathanJD
Well-known
the numbers that don't move are the aperture you've pre-selected and the numbers either side of the 2m mark that line up with the aperture number you're using will point at what will be in focus.
so on my summicron at 2 meters if i am taking photos at f16 it reads that everything up to just over 3 meters and everything just under 1.5 meters is going to be out of focus but these numbers might be different on the industar.
also take a look at my above post because i edited it and expanded a lot on what i said.
if you have any more questions just fire away!! i needed to do the exact same thing in the beginning
so on my summicron at 2 meters if i am taking photos at f16 it reads that everything up to just over 3 meters and everything just under 1.5 meters is going to be out of focus but these numbers might be different on the industar.
also take a look at my above post because i edited it and expanded a lot on what i said.
if you have any more questions just fire away!! i needed to do the exact same thing in the beginning
Uwe_Nds
Chief Assistant Driver
NathanJD
Well-known
Well done Uwe
i was just looking for that link!
that explains it better than i can and the picture speaks 1000 words
that explains it better than i can and the picture speaks 1000 words
Uwe_Nds
Chief Assistant Driver
Nathan,
Kevin Kaalsbeck's explanation is even better, but I get a message that the site his explanation is hosted may damage my computer, so I chose this one.
Cheers,
Uwe
Kevin Kaalsbeck's explanation is even better, but I get a message that the site his explanation is hosted may damage my computer, so I chose this one.
Cheers,
Uwe
mh2000
Well-known
I will take issue with the statement, " In this example everything from 1.5m to 3m (5ft to 12 ft.) will be perfectly in focus." In actuality, only the distance focused on will be "perfectly in focus," the rest of the range will hopefully be in "acceptable focus" which is a different thing all together. For what i shoot, I cut the stated range in half most the time when I am worried about "critical focus."
KGB-Spion
Member
Dear Users,
thank You a lot !
Now I got it
Its truely a very good description! Thank You very much !
PS: On jay fedka`s site they told me, I also need to make sure, that the tape-objective distance is 28.8 mm - I have a tool, which seems to measure it, but it is not so precious.
Is there any "tollerance" between those values ? What if its 29,2 ? Does it give me wrong pictures ?
Please help me - Leicas and Zorkis can take beautyfull pictures, i just need only a few things to know
Best regards,
KGB-Spion
thank You a lot !
Now I got it
PS: On jay fedka`s site they told me, I also need to make sure, that the tape-objective distance is 28.8 mm - I have a tool, which seems to measure it, but it is not so precious.
Is there any "tollerance" between those values ? What if its 29,2 ? Does it give me wrong pictures ?
Please help me - Leicas and Zorkis can take beautyfull pictures, i just need only a few things to know
Best regards,
KGB-Spion
NathanJD
Well-known
I don't understand the question, when you say tape-objective distance do you mean the distance between the film and the rear lens element?
KGB-Spion
Member
Yes - I mean exactly this distance ! I don`t get it - with my tool, the values seem to fit - but I cannot make sure - is it really so dramatic if it is 29.3 for example ?
Bluesman
Richard
Yes, it is important. If you shoot at close range and wide open, your focus will be off if the film<>element distance is wrong.
Most of the time this is no big issue, because you shoot at longer distances and with F at maybe 8 or 11. In that situation, the depth of field will compensate for the film<>element error.
But..say you use a 90mm at F2....at 2m range. You now have a sharp depth of field of maybe 3-5 cm in total. The focus WILL be someplace other than where you want it.
/R
Most of the time this is no big issue, because you shoot at longer distances and with F at maybe 8 or 11. In that situation, the depth of field will compensate for the film<>element error.
But..say you use a 90mm at F2....at 2m range. You now have a sharp depth of field of maybe 3-5 cm in total. The focus WILL be someplace other than where you want it.
/R
wolves3012
Veteran
Lens-mount-to film distance is supposed to be 28.80 +/- 0.02mm. This is the distance between the front of the lens-mount and the film. If it's wrong you're pictures will not likely be in focus. It is fairly critical and if the tool you use is not accurate enough then there's no point measuring it. The tolerance relates to what's called depth-of-focus (NOT the same as depth-of-field). Think of it as depth-of-field *behind* the lens, in other words, where the film is. You can't move the film very far before the image is out of focus.
KGB-Spion
Member
Okay - please tell me - there can I buy a tool which can measure it ? The most "depth-meters" are very small ...
please give me a link
please give me a link
wolves3012
Veteran
Something like this will do:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=32198
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=32198
KGB-Spion
Member
I also have a Calliper but now it comes :
1. the one I have is analogue BUT I found out, how to solve it --> I use OpenOffice Draw and then I print a line which is exactly 28,8 mm!
2. I take my tool and line it up to the paper line I printed --> Now my calliper is perfectly set to 28,8 mm.
3. I have to place it on the objective BUT THIS is really hard, because its end (with the 2 screws) is too small for placing it properly !
can You tell me how to place it so that it will be OK ?
1. the one I have is analogue BUT I found out, how to solve it --> I use OpenOffice Draw and then I print a line which is exactly 28,8 mm!
2. I take my tool and line it up to the paper line I printed --> Now my calliper is perfectly set to 28,8 mm.
3. I have to place it on the objective BUT THIS is really hard, because its end (with the 2 screws) is too small for placing it properly !
can You tell me how to place it so that it will be OK ?
KGB-Spion
Member
Look -
the first Picture shows You what I can do:
http://jay.fedka.com/index_files/image8741.jpg
BUT - this is something that has errors and requires tollerances !
The tool he uses is what works better - or do you have a method that works also fine with the tool above? PLEASE HELP ME
- it`s the last Thing I need to know : http://www3.telus.net/public/rpnchbck/camera working distance.html
the first Picture shows You what I can do:
http://jay.fedka.com/index_files/image8741.jpg
BUT - this is something that has errors and requires tollerances !
The tool he uses is what works better - or do you have a method that works also fine with the tool above? PLEASE HELP ME
- it`s the last Thing I need to know : http://www3.telus.net/public/rpnchbck/camera working distance.html
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NathanJD
Well-known
There is an easier way - Shoot a roll of film! Use low apertures and when you print them check if everything is in focus. if it isn't then you have saved an expense and you don't even need to worry about it. If it is THEN try to fix it. you may not even have a problem!
this will be cheaper.
this will be cheaper.
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