.ken
I like pictures
where is sigma when you need them... they need to start building m4/3 lenses.
Robin Harrison
aka Harrison Cronbi
If the thing really is good with high iso who cares about the difference between 2.8 and 1.7? It's not even a full stop.
Um...afraid it's somewhere between a stop and a third and a stop and a half.
(2.8/1.7) ^ 2 = 2.71
log2 2.71 ~= 1.44
I wouldn't be put off this lens on speed grounds give the IS and given the attractively priced kit with the body and the viewfinder. If I end up buying this camera, I think my Zeiss Tevidon 25mm f1.4 will provide my need for speed, but I'm not sure the old MF lenses will be as useful given the lack of EVF/articulated screen (as per the G1).
dazedgonebye
Veteran
40mm is a non-starter for me. I really don't like that field of view. It's too in-between.
If the thing really is good with high iso who cares about the difference between 2.8 and 1.7? It's not even a full stop.
Honestly I've shot in low light with a Yashica t4 that tops out at 2.8 and had few issues. I realize some people feel they "need" lens speed but unless it's like 1.4 I think it doesn't really make a lot of difference.
f2 to f2.8 is a full stop. f2.8 to f1.7 is about 1 1/3rd stops.
Assuming dof is adequate, I'd rather shoot at 1600 than 3200, 800 than 1600 etc...
joachim
Convicted Ektachome user
Hi,
An MTF graph of the 17mm at full open is published:
http://www.olympus.co.uk/consumer/2...ital_17mm_1_2_8_pancake___-_details_21775.htm
Definition dies in the very corner (but so does my Xenar on my Rolleicord). Interesting question, how much does it improve at f/4 or f/5.6.
An MTF graph of the 17mm at full open is published:
http://www.olympus.co.uk/consumer/2...ital_17mm_1_2_8_pancake___-_details_21775.htm
Definition dies in the very corner (but so does my Xenar on my Rolleicord). Interesting question, how much does it improve at f/4 or f/5.6.
morgan
Well-known
f2 to f2.8 is a full stop. f2.8 to f1.7 is about 1 1/3rd stops.
Assuming dof is adequate, I'd rather shoot at 1600 than 3200, 800 than 1600 etc...
I agree. I can't count the times with my R-D1 where I'm at the 1600 wall at f1.2 and I'm still @ 1/8 or something long like that. Me using the 35 1.2 over something slower is the difference between getting or not getting the shot. I don't think you can ever have too much speed really until sensors get to the point where noise isn't an issue.
dazedgonebye
Veteran
I agree. I can't count the times with my R-D1 where I'm at the 1600 wall at f1.2 and I'm still @ 1/8 or something long like that. Me using the 35 1.2 over something slower is the difference between getting or not getting the shot. I don't think you can ever have too much speed really until sensors get to the point where noise isn't an issue.
1600 iso and f2 is pretty much good for me with film. Digital must accomplish the same thing with pretty darn clean files because grain is nice and noise is not.
So, we're really getting there with the current tech (for my purposes only, of course).
Panasonic lenses have IS built in, Oly bodies have IS built in, are the two compatible?
dazedgonebye
Veteran
Panasonic lenses have IS built in, Oly bodies have IS built in, are the two compatible?
I don't believe the 20mm panny will have IS.
Not sure how the others would work.
pggunn
gregor
From what I understand, they are compatible. I have an E520. The manual says to turn in-camera stabilization off if using a lens with stabilization.
sirius
Well-known
The ep-1 has a sensor that moves and compensates for camera shake---apparently improving hand held ability up to 4 stops. Impressive!! It reduces the size of the lens too.
The lens lock is not used in the traditional way with this ep-1 zoom. Traditionally a zoom lock was for large heavy size compressed zooms to reduce the chance that the lens would drift out when you point the camera down. The ep-1 zoom lock is related to how the lens compresses, shrinking an astonishing 1/2 its size once the camera is not in use. At least, that is how I understood the dpreview description.
The lens lock is not used in the traditional way with this ep-1 zoom. Traditionally a zoom lock was for large heavy size compressed zooms to reduce the chance that the lens would drift out when you point the camera down. The ep-1 zoom lock is related to how the lens compresses, shrinking an astonishing 1/2 its size once the camera is not in use. At least, that is how I understood the dpreview description.
sirius
Well-known
You know what would be cool is a gothic M on the front or the top plate, much like the original pens gothic F, which is think is a really beautiful and distinctive design.
Hey! Check-out the lens cap....
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pcwang/3631874686/
Get a sign shop to print up some black vinyl gothic Fs of the proper size to fit on the front of the camera, right where the F was on the original Pen F. 
You know what would be cool is a gothic M on the front or the top plate, much like the original pens gothic F, which is think is a really beautiful and distinctive design.
gavinlg
Veteran
heyyyy now thats what I'm talkin bout!
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