jpa66
Jan as in "Jan and Dean"
I'm going to be getting some Rodinal, and would like to try some other kind of developer, other than D 76.
Anybody use any of the Formulary film developers? I've been curious about them.
Are there any developers that are easy to work with and provide a broad tonal range, while still maintaining a relatively sharp image?
Thanks,
JP
Anybody use any of the Formulary film developers? I've been curious about them.
Are there any developers that are easy to work with and provide a broad tonal range, while still maintaining a relatively sharp image?
Thanks,
JP
Kip_S
Member
i am a big fan of rodinal.
i have heard good things (really good things) about panthermic 777. supposedly easy to work with once you break in the chemicals.
i have heard good things (really good things) about panthermic 777. supposedly easy to work with once you break in the chemicals.
dufffader
Leicanaut/Nikonaut...
I'll root for HC110... relatively cheap, does better with film that looks aweful in Rodinal. With Rodinal + HC110 I rarely feel the need to experiment with other developers, although the technical part of me is saying otherwise!
ZeissFan
Veteran
I've been using a lot of Adox ATM-49 (the old Agfa Atomal formula). I've been very pleased with the results.
In the past, I've also used Microdol-X, HC-110 and an Ilford developer that is very same or the same as D-76. Oh, I've also used the TMax developer, but felt the negatives were a bit thin.
In the past, I've also used Microdol-X, HC-110 and an Ilford developer that is very same or the same as D-76. Oh, I've also used the TMax developer, but felt the negatives were a bit thin.
Michael P.
Bronica RF
Kodak XTOL. Nice contrast and tonal range.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
I expect Zeissfan is referring to Ilford ID-11. It is apparently not exactly the same as D-76: Kodak and Ilford list slightly different developing times, for one thing. Of course, that could be due to different preferences for gamma (contrast). However, they are very close--basically equivalent.
Mephiloco
Well-known
I use Rodinal as my all purpose developer, though I mostly shoot tri-x. In my closet I also have Ilfosol-S (NEVER use it anymore, was given to me), Iford DD-X, Rodinal, D76, some Xtol I think, and some TMax developer left.
I don't use the d76 so much anymore, as I find rodinal pushes tri-x to 3200 and beyond pretty well. If a film won't process well in rodinal or d76, I go to the Tmax. IIRC I souped some Efke 25 in tmax and it came out pretty good.
I don't use the d76 so much anymore, as I find rodinal pushes tri-x to 3200 and beyond pretty well. If a film won't process well in rodinal or d76, I go to the Tmax. IIRC I souped some Efke 25 in tmax and it came out pretty good.
eli griggs
Well-known
I like Rodinal with Tmax 100 and use D76, ABC Pyro and HC-110 with everything else. Most of the time the HC-110 is used with Tri-X at Dilution H and I'm very happy with it as my main developer, Tri-X/Arista Premium 400 being the primary film I shoot. Use a syringe to take the syrup from the bottle as needed and a bottle will last quite a while.
Ansco 130 is a 'universal' developer, can also be used for film as well as paper and P. Formulary has it in kit form, though I prefer to mix it myself.
I also get my ABCPyro from P. Formulary, in a small kit, as well as most of my other chemistry for mixing my own D76, Ansco 130, etc. They are great to work with and their products are of a good quality; be sure to try their TF-4 Fixer if you order from them.
Ansco 130 is a 'universal' developer, can also be used for film as well as paper and P. Formulary has it in kit form, though I prefer to mix it myself.
I also get my ABCPyro from P. Formulary, in a small kit, as well as most of my other chemistry for mixing my own D76, Ansco 130, etc. They are great to work with and their products are of a good quality; be sure to try their TF-4 Fixer if you order from them.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
If you want to experiment - get Anchell and Troops "The Film Developing Cook Book(s)" Essential reading and it allows you the chance to try a lot of different "soups" until you find one that you like.
Mixing your own developer (film and paper) is easy - a good set of digital scales, some basic chemistry and you are set.
As you start figuring it out - you can fine tune your own developer to fit your style of shooting - and your developer is controllable by you. Many of the packaged developer has to contend with things like shelf -life and packaging - when you mix your own from scratch, your choices increase substantially.
Plenty of expertise to on the web and here on RFf too.
Mixing your own developer (film and paper) is easy - a good set of digital scales, some basic chemistry and you are set.
As you start figuring it out - you can fine tune your own developer to fit your style of shooting - and your developer is controllable by you. Many of the packaged developer has to contend with things like shelf -life and packaging - when you mix your own from scratch, your choices increase substantially.
Plenty of expertise to on the web and here on RFf too.
mfogiel
Veteran
If you like the acutance developers, you should try one of the latest pyro developers, which excel in high contrast scenes often found in street shooting. I use Prescysol EF, and I know many others use Pyrocat HD which has very similar properties. With a Tri X @ EI 250, your dynamic range and tonality can get really amazing:
notturtle
Well-known
Hate to say it but if you are looking for a std dev, good old boring Xtol is the ticket. Ignore the constant rantings about failure which is an issue dead for a decade (and only then with then old 1L packs).
It is remarkably stable and long lasting - more so than ANY dev I have used except Pyrocat HD and Rodinal. it offers superb smooth tonality and fine grain neat and good acutance diluted 1+2 or 3 with 1+1 a good average.
Xtol is too boring and common to be worth conisdering, right? I have come back to the notion that I need to keep things simple and shoot good images. a standard dev that is consistent and produces good solid middle ground negs is what matters most for me as my work is quite varied.
You can mix Xtol and Rodinal to get every shade of grain and crunchiness in between. It works....
It is remarkably stable and long lasting - more so than ANY dev I have used except Pyrocat HD and Rodinal. it offers superb smooth tonality and fine grain neat and good acutance diluted 1+2 or 3 with 1+1 a good average.
Xtol is too boring and common to be worth conisdering, right? I have come back to the notion that I need to keep things simple and shoot good images. a standard dev that is consistent and produces good solid middle ground negs is what matters most for me as my work is quite varied.
You can mix Xtol and Rodinal to get every shade of grain and crunchiness in between. It works....
wallace
Well-known
Because I mainly shoot medium format right now, Rodinal is my favorite even for TRi-X.
But since so many experts around, I'd like to ask another question: which developer is the most friendly to the environment? I'd like to have clean conscience when I flush the toilet...
wallace
But since so many experts around, I'd like to ask another question: which developer is the most friendly to the environment? I'd like to have clean conscience when I flush the toilet...
wallace
notturtle
Well-known
... but i agree with Mfogiel that once you have a good standard dev nailed, Pyrocat HD would be my next port of call. I cant use it as the water here is so awful and varied. When back in civilisation I might return to the fold for certain uses.
notturtle
Well-known
Xtol. I think.
martin s
Well-known
Agreed, I really like XTOL. Eventually I'll probably stick with XTOL and Rodinal.
martin
jpa66
Jan as in "Jan and Dean"
Thanks for the replies, everyone.
I haven't developed any film in quite awhile, though I've been back in the darkroom recently. Rodinal was always my favorite film developer way back when. I never tried HC-110, although I've used D 76 ( OK, IMO ) and one other Kodak developer which I can't remember - wait - it was the T max developer, which I didn't care for. I never liked the Ilford stuff I used, either.
I'm really anxious to get back to developing my own stuff, and can't wait to try some of the suggestions.
Once I get comfortable again with my own deveolping, I'll probably start experimenting with different "recipes".
I think I'll give Xtol a try, and maybe some Prescysol EF and/or Pyrocat HD. BTW - really nice photo, mfogiel.
JP
I haven't developed any film in quite awhile, though I've been back in the darkroom recently. Rodinal was always my favorite film developer way back when. I never tried HC-110, although I've used D 76 ( OK, IMO ) and one other Kodak developer which I can't remember - wait - it was the T max developer, which I didn't care for. I never liked the Ilford stuff I used, either.
I'm really anxious to get back to developing my own stuff, and can't wait to try some of the suggestions.
Once I get comfortable again with my own deveolping, I'll probably start experimenting with different "recipes".
I think I'll give Xtol a try, and maybe some Prescysol EF and/or Pyrocat HD. BTW - really nice photo, mfogiel.
JP
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Why?
I'm not being funny or combative. I'm just asking what you want that your current dev isn't delivering. You've (sort of) said, but what are your criteria for sharpness? How important is grain to you? What about speed? Any developer can deliver 'a broad tonal range' with any sane film (i.e. not microfilm, etc.) but that's not the same as good tonality.
Also, what films do you use? Some films work uncannily well with some devs, and some work uncannily badly.
Tashi delek,
R.
jpa66
Jan as in "Jan and Dean"
I'd like deep blacks, nice contrast without being too contrasty ( if that makes any sense ) and good tonality. Depending upon what I'm shooting, I'd like a very sharp image with grain; other times, a sharp image without much grain ( if possible ).
I primarily use Tri-X and HP5, both in 35 and 120mm. I'm going to give some Efke 25 and 50 a try. I used to shoot T-Max a long time ago, but prefer Tri-X.
jpa66
Jan as in "Jan and Dean"
To clarify ( or perhaps confuse ) further...
I'd like the negative to print up with strong highlights and shadows, and good tonality throughout the tones in between. IE: not muddied.
I'd like the negative to print up with strong highlights and shadows, and good tonality throughout the tones in between. IE: not muddied.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
jpa66, whenever I want to find something out re film/developers etc - go to Flickr and type in the tag, for example Pyrocat HD and lost of samples pop up.
I like the Pyrocat - fairly easy to mix and stores reasonably well. I usually mix 500ml A and B - enough for about 160 rolls. It will last at least 3-4 month - but when it goes - it goes quickly!
It is npw my "standard" developer for films like Presto 400/TriX/ and Acros 100.
I like the Pyrocat - fairly easy to mix and stores reasonably well. I usually mix 500ml A and B - enough for about 160 rolls. It will last at least 3-4 month - but when it goes - it goes quickly!
It is npw my "standard" developer for films like Presto 400/TriX/ and Acros 100.