Leica LTM Film cutting nightmare

Leica M39 screw mount bodies/lenses

MarkoKovacevic

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I cut a roll of color film for my Leica iiia, and I didn't put a curve in it as it goes up to full width [you know what I mean?] and just did it square.
Well it got caught on something in the camera and my whole roll ended up in half, lengthwise.

Remember to make the cuts smooth!
 
I've had film do odd things in my bottom loaders but it usually get stuck within a frame or two. I'd love to see a pix of what you unrolled.
 
I tried cutting the leader once and ended up with a jam. Since then I have not cut the film for my IIIa or IIIc and haven't had a problem.
 
cutting a square corner into the film must have created a weak place where a tear could get started. A point to remember for those of us who number Barnacks among our gear!
 
Oh yes .... cutting through a sprocket hole or a square into the film leader can cause trouble. I had it happen a couple of times, when my IIIf was new for me. :eek:
 
I always cut mine, but maybe I'll try not cutting it next time and see how it goes. All I know is that some cameras are fussier than others on this area.
 
It doesn't have to be precise but I cut mine longer than current factory loads. They're about the length they used to be years ago, and I cut them with the same (or close to it) curves as factory loads. Both Leitz and Spiratone used to make metal cutting guides so you could trim the film with a knife. The Leitz ones are now pricey!
 
I bought a "Made in China" copy of the Leica cutting template on eBay. Price was very reasonable -- I can't recall exactly -- probably aabout $15. I cut several rolls at a time with a knife or single edge razor blade. Have had no problems since I have been using it, provided that I check the loading by tightening up the rewind knob after advancing two frames or so.
Dave
 
Here's a good example of how you should cut the film. I've done it for years without any jams/problems..

leader.jpg
 
I extend the factory-cut tab to about 2x its original legnth (index finger to pinky where they meet the palm).

I bought a good pair of curved cuticle scissors at the drugstore expressly for trimming leader for the LTM. Works well.

I buy my film in four-packs, so I do four rolls at one sitting.

I have also tried loading with the film just as it comes from the mfr ("short leader") , but I have to remove the lens, set the shutter open on "Z", and ease the film up past the top edge of the gate from the lens side...

In any case, after winding about 1/2 wrap onto the take-up spool, I tighten the re-wind knob, and make sure the film has engaged the sprocket teeth.

I had a similar "film-split" disaster with a "new" black III... 1/2 of the split wound-up getting rolled into the shutter-blind on the advance-knob side, with film chips jamming the gears in the bottom of the shutter crate. :confused: :eek: :mad:

This required my first (and so far, only ) adventure into taking-apart a Barnack camera... patient and doctor both survived the proceedure ! :cool:

Have had dozens of trouble-free bottom loads since then.

Good luck !
 
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I haven't had any problems bottom loading, besides this one! I have one of those tiny swiss army knives, the one with the knife,scissors,nailfile, and tweezers/toothpick. I keep it in my wallets coin pocket in case I buy film and need to cut it, and I just count 22 holes to where I'm supposed to cut.
 
I bought a good pair of curved cuticle scissors at the drugstore expressly for trimming leader for the LTM. Works well.

That's an interesting coincidence as I use the same sort of scissors. Small and curved, ideal for the job - in the UK (I am english) they are usually called nail-scissors. Fold a bit of cardboard in half, put the scissors inside with an elastic band round and it gets shoved in the bottom of the bag, without impaling anything.

So far as length goes, I count 19 perforations or just estimate based on the length of the shutter-crate. Basically, all curvey and slopey, without going through the middle of a perforation, and the film should not get caught up on the pressure-plate or the side of the shutter-crate. The tip about using the rewind to tighten the film as soon as it is in the camera is good, as this means that the rotating rewind knob can confirm everything is running smoothly when you wind-on.
 
Touring NYC a couple of years ago w/ a pair of IIIf's was a pain, because the security check people were always wanting to confiscate my Leatherman tool - I didn't even attempt to take a pocket knife.

That was my last all-Barnack vacation. Too much hassle, it convinced my wife I really DID need an M. :D
 
If one was only using Barnacks then it would have been handy to trim the leaders on the day's film while back at the hotel ?
;)
 
For my IIIf I don't trim at all. In fact when I use a reloaded cassette, I leave the film squared off straight. The only time I cut an "tongue" on the leader is for take-up spools that have a narrow slot.

If you open the shutter, by using the "T" shutter setting, you have access to the film and you can slide it into place. It's almost as easy as loading an M.

You just have to make sure the film is aligned on the sprocket.
 
If one was only using Barnacks then it would have been handy to trim the leaders on the day's film while back at the hotel ?
;)

Three of us were shooting film, so just I trimmed as needed. My reloadable Leica cassettes (FILCA?) were all pre-trimmed, but one of my IIIf's likes to "hold on" to those, and I need the small pliers to coax it out.

I actually had one old-timer security guard who remembered the cassettes; I let him handle the IIIf and reminisce, and he let me through with the Leatherman.
 
Really, you cut it that thick?

For me it makes loading fast and easy and I have never had torn sprocket holes..

You hold the spool in one hand the cassette in the other and feed the leader into the spool slot then drop them into their respective chambers place the bottom in place and start winding..
 
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