jarski
Veteran
congrats Frank for nice find, and thx Christopher for explanation for various models. am Nikon user myself, but now have to think a second time if I see somewhere good user OM-2 with reasonable price 🙂
thats interesting news to me, i didnt know they did a OM-4Ti black&gold, love to see it! some people tend to call the champagne (silver) model gold(en) though
I know they did a special gold editions of the OM-1n and 2n though
Don't forget the OM-2000, a Bessaflex with an OM mount.
B2 (;->
OM-4T Upgraded OM-4 that eliminated battery drain and added titanium bottom and top plates. Originally offered in silver, then later in black. Called the OM-4Ti outside the USA, later USA models also took on the Ti name. First camera to ever offer the now-common (on modern D-SLRs) high-speed flash sync to 1/2000 of a second if you used the special F-280 flash.
A mention here: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photograph...lympusom1n2/OM2nGoldMeinhardSchmitt/index.htmthats interesting news to me, i didnt know they did a OM-4Ti black&gold, love to see it! some people tend to call the champagne (silver) model gold(en) though
I know they did a special gold editions of the OM-1n and 2n though
I got an OM-4T that had the battery drain issue (chewed up a brand new pair of SR-44's in less than 48 hours, so I returned it), is it just less common with the T or did I get one that might have had the electronics swapped with an OM-4? I'd like to try another one someday.
Most mechanical parts in OM-4 are the same in 4T / Ti, same goes for OM-3 and 3Ti. For that matter, lots of mechanical parts are interchangeable between the 3 and 4. OM-4 is almost as serviceable as 4T/Ti unless it comes to replacing the circuit board(s). You can buy a 4T board and adapt it, but parts could run around $300. John
About theh OM4, isn't multi-spot reading a bit fiddley? Do you actually bother? You'd have to be be pretty super fussy about exposure which is just a best approximation anyway - no such thing as perfect exposure, and there's wiggle room for deviation with neg film. Multi-spot readings to me seem a bit like over-kill in a 35mm format. Maybe shooting 8x10 and larger you need to be fussy about it.
The main thing that actually bothers me when I want to use it for non-shift work is just how big the lens is! Whenever I shoot film it's usually because I want to be compact (among other reasons, but that's definitely a big one) and that lens is much larger than any of the other little primes I put on OM bodies. Also, it's friggen hard to focus the TS, especially once you've really started moving it around. I'm about to get back my first roll from it and I have a feeling about 6 of 36 shots will be in focus. Still, it's a pretty neat thing to use, if it weren't for the OM-4 with the TS I'd have to dish out nearly $2,000 to try one on my D700.....The OM-4T is an incredible camera, my everyday use 35mm system is a couple of these bodies and a collection of Zuiko lenses. I'm jealous of the 35 shift, always wanted one of those! I have the 35/2.8 non-shift and the 35/2 from Olympus and both are great lenses for normal use. Isn't the shift hard to use for non-shift work? I thought it didn't have an auto-diaphragm?
I'm starting to sway towards my OM-2 over my OM-1... the meter is brilliant. In AE with an understanding of how to use exposure compensation to suit the camera's meter it's near fool proof!
I usually avoid using AE but the OM-2 is seriously good in this department!
Jesse mentioned, "If you don't like the screen, there are alternatives - 13. Screen 1 -13 is my favourite."
In fact, one of the series II screens will considerably brighten your already great view. Like the Beatty screens, they tend to 'knock your eye out.' The down side is that the meter needs to readjusted to match the brighter screen. Take a look at John Hermanson's site.